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W211 E220 CDi 2004 "Heavy Steering & Judder/Vibration” When Accelerating/Gear Change

We had a 2006 C Class have glycol contamination. Its not just some Valeo rads that do it.
 
I've emptied the transmission and removed the oil pan filter etc.
Should have a report back on the condition of the ATF next week with a bit of luck as I don't have a glycol test kit.

Going to replace the conductor plate, connector etc. before refilling since it's in bits anyway.

Obviously if the ATF is contaminated it's a must to do the TC but I'm kind of wondering if I should just drop the box out and send the TC off for a recon anyway.

May check Monday and get a price for doing the TC, anyone got any recommendations for a recon shop?
 
Seems that:

Mackie Automatic Transmissions Ltd
Tollcross
Glasgow

are the experts up here in Scotland.

Decided to just have the TC reconditioned anyway and will send to Mackie for this.

Removed heat shields & prop shaft today.

Treating it as a no rush job and doing the odd bit when I have free time.

Gearbox out next after I refit the valve body, filter, sump pan etc.

Anyone any pointers, should I drain the TC first, there seems to be a couple of bolts at the top side, they easy to access from top side?
 
OK, not sure if anyone is watching but I'll keep updating as it may be useful for others. ;)

So much for just doing the odd bit now and then, had a couple of hours spare today and the filter, conductor plate etc. arrived.
Decided to fit these back on the box and get the sump pan etc. back on.

Couple of hours later and the box is now out.

1. Should have drained the TC but I'd guess I'd have had to fill the sump pan at least and turn the engine over and drain via the banjo bolt on the left. No big deal but hate horrible smelly ATF running down my arms.

2. Best way to get to the top bolts seems to be to lower the transmission so that the engine lowers and access these with a very long extension on the end of a ratchet.

Torque Converter already has a big X on it at the gearbox side, someone trying to tell me something.

Anyway will get this off to the re-work shop tomorrow so should get this back next week.
 
OK, not sure if anyone is watching but I'll keep updating as it may be useful for others. ;)

Reading with interest, and I don't have a W211 :thumb:

Keep the updates coming
 
Just got Torque Converter back from shop, looking good, they confirmed it had problems around the lock up clutch.

Gearbox tidied up and ready to go in, busy this weekend so hopefully get some time in the week.




 
Got confirmation from the glycol test that there is no problem with coolant getting into the ATF so nothing to worry about there.

Put the TC and the box back in today, should get time tomorrow to fit the propshaft and fill up the box to test.
 
She lives again. :bannana:

Fitted propshaft today (decided to get new flexible joints), filled box , ran a little and brought the box up to 80 degrees to get level right.

No leaks, running ok, so seems fine again, not had proper chance to road test yet but looking good thus far.

Did get a brake or parking brake error so guess I've got some sticky pads or similar to look at but that's another day.

Dropped a spanner under the air filter so had to remove that and lost a few clips, it was rather dirty under there.

Total repair cost so far £559 inc. Torque Converter but obviously excluding the labour cost.
 
pmcgsmurf said:
She lives again. :bannana: Fitted propshaft today (decided to get new flexible joints), filled box , ran a little and brought the box up to 80 degrees to get level right. No leaks, running ok, so seems fine again, not had proper chance to road test yet but looking good thus far. Did get a brake or parking brake error so guess I've got some sticky pads or similar to look at but that's another day. Dropped a spanner under the air filter so had to remove that and lost a few clips, it was rather dirty under there. Total repair cost so far £559 inc. Torque Converter but obviously excluding the labour cost.

Sometimes the valve in the valve body that controls the lock up clutch wears. This may cause accelerated wear of the new TC too if the lock up in the TC has failed. It's not common but I have seen it a few times.
 
Sometimes the valve in the valve body that controls the lock up clutch wears. This may cause accelerated wear of the new TC too if the lock up in the TC has failed. It's not common but I have seen it a few times.

Thanks, will see how it runs in real life when back on road, relieved to have been told that the TC was indeed faulty.

It's a bit easier to get into the valve body if there is any issue with the Lock Up Regulating Valve assuming of course it's possible to get a replacement.
 
Pleased to report that it drives like a dream.

Nice smooth changes up & down the box, no judder or vibration at all.

Taxed it today and took it out for a long drive, kick down and all the gear changes are real nice.

Chuffed considering what's it's cost to get a nice newly reconditioned Torque Converter in the car.

Steering is still a bit heavy but that's a job for another day.....
 
Sounds good...just been quoted 650 including labour to have mine torque convertor replaced. Vehicle shudders from time to time especially on accelaration. Don't quite have the cash now, so may have to use vehicle cautiously.

1. Is it worth getting a used Torque Convertor from Ebay?

2. Should I just wait ... but for how long could the car keep going?
 
I wouldn't get a TC from ebay considering the fact you can have your own one fully reconditioned, mine cost £240 @ Mackies in Glasgow.
 
Thanks. The replacement part comes at less than 250. I have seen some tcs for 100 which supposedly come with some guarantee. In addition a replacement means the vehicle does not have to be kept in the garage for too long. If I lived close to Glasgow I would have simply driven the car there for a turnkey solution which I am being quoted 650 in London. Should not really be complaining...its cost 1000s to fix in the past. It is just that the cash ain't there this side of xmas.
 
Don't forget if your torque converter has failed as a result of contamination you must change the radiator to.
 
Seems like we broke the old girl. :(

Had her pulling a heavy trailer 1Ton+ with a machine on 2Ton and after that she wasn't very cheery at all.
We should have known better but relished the challenge of moving these machines around on a local estate with the old car.

Had a few problems changing gears after this, reported transmission slipping and wouldn't go into R after stopping without switching off and back on.

Done a fluid. filter change but still not any good.

Showing codes:
2200 The signal from component Y3/8n2 (Internal speed sensor (VGS)) is not available
2225-1 Transmission control ETC FAULT 8


I think we have knackered the Torque Convertor with all the extra load we put on it, was struggling to pull the last machine along a slight incline on the estate.

Now what to do, do I fix the old girl or call it a day with her, decisions.......
 
Showing codes:
2200 The signal from component Y3/8n2 (Internal speed sensor (VGS)) is not available
2225-1 Transmission control ETC FAULT 8

The 2200 is actually:

P2200 Component Y3/6n2 (speed sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor has a short circuit

Note the 6n2 instead of 8n2, Icarsoft reported 8n2 where Star reports 6n2

I'm now starting to wonder if we have ruined the clutch packs in the 722.6

Wondering if the speed sensor 2 is worth replacing as it comes in the conductor plate.
 
Fixed, new conductor plate, pilot bush and clean of the valve body seems to have done the trick along with a fluid/filter change.

Also fitted a new Nissens radiator along with new lines from the radiator to the transmission.
 

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