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W211 Speaker size

Amo

Active Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Messages
486
Location
London
Car
CLS 55 AMG
Hello,

Can anyone tell me the speaker size in W211 front doors? Also if there are any Depth restrictions? I am upgrading my front speakers and looking at different aftermarket components but need to know the measurements before buying them.

I dont really want to open the door cards just to see the size of the speakers...(lazyy)

Cheers in advance

Regards
Amo
 
Does any know of the speaker size?
Hi Amo,
As I have just upgraded my whole Audio system, I can confidently tell you that the front speakers are 6.5 inch. The depth shouldn’t be a problem, any mids will fit, unless you’re using a subwoofer in the front doors mate.
Hope this helps?
 
Hi Amo,
As I have just upgraded my whole Audio system, I can confidently tell you that the front speakers are 6.5 inch. The depth shouldn’t be a problem, any mids will fit, unless you’re using a subwoofer in the front doors mate.
Hope this helps?
Due to the OP being in 2010 you might be a bit late.
 
Hi Amo,
As I have just upgraded my whole Audio system, I can confidently tell you that the front speakers are 6.5 inch. The depth shouldn’t be a problem, any mids will fit, unless you’re using a subwoofer in the front doors mate.
Hope this helps?

Hi Harpo911,

Do you recall how you upgrades the door speakers? I took mine off today and took thos 4 torx screws off but the speaker seems moulded into place. I can't find any ring adapters for it. I got the harness adapters ready to go but went to fit the speakers and no luck.

Thanks
 
Dear Bortig,
I am including a link in this message to you so that you can see how exactly to change the front door speakers.
W211 front speaker, removal and replacement:

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.


I will also be sending you a link to some I am including a link in this message to you so that you can see how exactly to change the front door speakers.
I will also be sending you a link to some door, spaces door, speaker, spacers/rings.
There are two different types I’m going to send to you and they are still available. One is in MTF/Wood and the other one is in plastic.
The following links will take you to where you can purchase them.

Wood ones:
Mercedes E class, W211 (->2009) speaker adapter (165 mm). MDF-D.77

Plastic ones.
Speaker rings Mercedes E-Class (W211) speaker recording LSP adapter set | eBay

I hope this helps you?
😎
 
Dear Bortig,
I am including a link in this message to you so that you can see how exactly to change the front door speakers.
W211 front speaker, removal and replacement:

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.


I will also be sending you a link to some I am including a link in this message to you so that you can see how exactly to change the front door speakers.
I will also be sending you a link to some door, spaces door, speaker, spacers/rings.
There are two different types I’m going to send to you and they are still available. One is in MTF/Wood and the other one is in plastic.
The following links will take you to where you can purchase them.

Wood ones:
Mercedes E class, W211 (->2009) speaker adapter (165 mm). MDF-D.77

Plastic ones.
Speaker rings Mercedes E-Class (W211) speaker recording LSP adapter set | eBay

I hope this helps you?
😎


Much appreciated Harpo. Last question with the adapters. How do they mount? Do they come with nuts and bolts to put onto the 3 holes on the door or do they come with some rubber mounts?
 
Much appreciated Harpo. Last question with the adapters. How do they mount? Do they come with nuts and bolts to put onto the 3 holes on the door or do they come with some rubber mounts?
Hey brother,
Not a problem for the help.
The first question I need to ask you is which adapters will you use, will it be MDF or will it be plastic adapters?
Usually what happens, is that the speakers that go into the door, come with the screws the would (ordinarily and in a perfect world) go straight into the space that the last one(s) did.

Do the speakers that you purchased/have still fit into the plastic covers that the original ones fitted into?
If so, I would fit them into that plastic cover and then reattach the cover back to the door.
If on the other hand you cannot use the plastic inserts that the original speakers fitted into, I would use (MDF, my personal favourite adaptors) glue.
If they are plastic ones, you will just have to get some screws to put into the ring adapters and screw them through the plastic cover and into the door itself.

May I ask you some questions?
1: What head unit/car stereo are you using to power the speakers? (the better the head unit, the better the sound reproduction.)
2: What door speakers are you using to replace the original door speakers?
3: Are you going to be using an amplifier?
I hope this helps. If you need any other advice, please don’t hesitate to call me.

H
 
One last thing, I forgot to mention, please use some Dynamat (the best by far) to soundproof the door, and for the screws and adapters to stick onto without any sound vibration or rattling purposes.
 
Harpo bro, you absolute legend. This is the golden info I was looking for.

For speakers and headunit I am using Kenwood, they came with the screws. I also got the wiring adapter. I took the oem speakers off but couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to separate it from the plastic housing.

1694521148760.jpeg


I’ve used the connects2 kit to connect aftermarket headunit to the most fibre decoder and steering wheel etc. that all works fine now and sound quality is thousand times better then the android unit i used before. Erisin. Also hooked up an actjve subwoofer using remote blue wire. Only because with the erisin unit I couldn’t get the most fibre to work properly. So now have 2 subs setup.

I was going to go with the plastic adapters you kindly mentioned. But the MDF and glue approach sounds good too (and easier). I’ve already got the sound deadening ready to apply on.
 
You are absolutely welcome brother.
I wish I could show you my Soundsystem, as it would probably blow your head off!
And that’s not an exaggeration.

I looked up your (Kenwood) door speakers (so glad you didn’t go with Poopineer) and as far as I can see they’re not bad. It took me awhile to find out that they are 100RMS each.
I would be interested in knowing what Kenwood head unit you’re using (I am an Alpine man myself)?
What’s the rated power of your Kenwood head unit?
I’d be interested in knowing what your two subs set up is, and what amplifier(s) you are using to power your whole system?

I am going to send you a couple of links to an audio manufacturer, which I use in my car, and I am extremely impressed with them.
They are called PRV (https://prvaudio.com) and they are a Brazilian company, whose audio is pretty unbelievable for what you pay.

Here are some links to the door speakers, which, without any disrespect would shame the Kenwoods completely.
Again bro, I’m not here to make you feel bad and that’s not my intention.

The first link is a deal that they (PRV) are doing, and the second one is some speakers, which I think will impress you greatly.

6.5” PRO Audio Speakers & Tweeters + Amplifier Bundle



6CX380-4 SLIM

I am using a Alpine 705D, a Orion Hcca 152 SPL and to power it a PRV SQ6000X
And that’s just the start!

So Sorry if I’ve bored you to death bro! Lol
 
No not at all bored. Im very new to all these audio upgrade stuff etc. i just went off of generic reviews but was going down the cheap route. Which came
Out as expected.

I went to car audio security during a merc meet. Fella there recommended Kenwood as quality kit.

Headunit Kenwood DMX5020BTS - 6.8"


Sub Phoenix Gold Z Series Z18AB 8" 500W Powered Active Ported Wedge Subwoofer Box


With these box holders


If only I had messages here before I could’ve gone with the prv kit.

So is RMS the key bit of info? How would one determine quality though over RMS?
 
No not at all bored. Im very new to all these audio upgrade stuff etc. i just went off of generic reviews but was going down the cheap route. Which came
Out as expected.

I went to car audio security during a merc meet. Fella there recommended Kenwood as quality kit.

Headunit Kenwood DMX5020BTS - 6.8"

[/URL]

Sub Phoenix Gold Z Series Z18AB 8" 500W Powered Active Ported Wedge Subwoofer Box

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With these box holders

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If only I had messages here before I could’ve gone with the prv kit.

So is RMS the key bit of info? How would one determine quality though over RMS?
 
Hi (what is your name by the way?) SL03WLY,
I’m glad I didn’t bore you out of your mind!

People give you their opinion with the amount of knowledge that they know. I’m sure the person that gave you this information about car stereo only told you what he knew about it, if that makes sense?

Your Kenwood head unit; I looked at the specs, and It is actually a pretty good head unit, I was quite impressed with the performance figures.

The Phoenix (Great pedigree) gold 8 inch sub box; may I ask you why you picked such a small sub size?
Is it because of usage of the boot in the car?

I always recommend people to go for at least (dependent on boot space) at 12 inch subwoofer.
Failing that, the smallest I would ever go would be a 10 inch sub.
I just installed a 10” ported with a built in amplifier, into my friends car.
It’s a Vauxhall Corsa
Later on, I will take some pictures and send them to you, if you’d like me to?

If you’re worried about the space, I would’ve gone with a sealed (i.e. non-ported) box.
If you have a look at your RMS specifications on your sub box, it says 125 W, RMS and the peak power is 500W.
The peak power story is for another day, and make you ask, why the hell anyone ever goes with peak power?

Here is a link (worth a read) that will explain to you what RMS actually means in terms of stereo performance.



To answer your question about RMS and quality, it always starts with the head unit, then it goes to the amplifiers and speakers that you may have.
One of the greatest things that you could ever get for your car stereo is high quality RCA cables.
The quality is dependent on kind of music you listen to and how loud you listen to it, to a point?

May I ask you where are you live in this great country of ours?

[email protected]
 
Hi (what is your name by the way?) SL03WLY,
I’m glad I didn’t bore you out of your mind!

People give you their opinion with the amount of knowledge that they know. I’m sure the person that gave you this information about car stereo only told you what he knew about it, if that makes sense?

Your Kenwood head unit; I looked at the specs, and It is actually a pretty good head unit, I was quite impressed with the performance figures.

The Phoenix (Great pedigree) gold 8 inch sub box; may I ask you why you picked such a small sub size?
Is it because of usage of the boot in the car?

I always recommend people to go for at least (dependent on boot space) at 12 inch subwoofer.
Failing that, the smallest I would ever go would be a 10 inch sub.
I just installed a 10” ported with a built in amplifier, into my friends car.
It’s a Vauxhall Corsa
Later on, I will take some pictures and send them to you, if you’d like me to?

If you’re worried about the space, I would’ve gone with a sealed (i.e. non-ported) box.
If you have a look at your RMS specifications on your sub box, it says 125 W, RMS and the peak power is 500W.
The peak power story is for another day, and make you ask, why the hell anyone ever goes with peak power?

Here is a link (worth a read) that will explain to you what RMS actually means in terms of stereo performance.



To answer your question about RMS and quality, it always starts with the head unit, then it goes to the amplifiers and speakers that you may have.
One of the greatest things that you could ever get for your car stereo is high quality RCA cables.
The quality is dependent on kind of music you listen to and how loud you listen to it, to a point?

May I ask you where are you live in this great country of ours?

[email protected]

Hey Harps, So I’m Ad.

Yea CarAudio lot are very straightforward and just took their advice. The subwoofer, i bought the 8” but they sent me the 10” for some reason. Price was the same at the time. I just wanted some bass but not too crazy. But with a built in amp. Ive not heard of the brand before but now am on the Kenwood hype so have seen their active sub which I may go with at some point. However at the moment it seems to so the job.

Only thing with this sub is the amp turn off is delayed so gives a pop when turning car off.

With the headunit it’s working way way better now then the erisin one.
 
1694681954687.png

Ksc-sw11 is the one im thinking of getting. Get it
Mounted onto the back in the boot.

Also used these rca cables. They are coated/shielded. Not getting any whines or interference now. Did with the erisin

 
View attachment 146622

Ksc-sw11 is the one im thinking of getting. Get it
Mounted onto the back in the boot.

Also used these rca cables. They are coated/shielded. Not getting any whines or interference now. Did with the erisin

Hi Ad,
View attachment 146622

Ksc-sw11 is the one im thinking of getting. Get it
Mounted onto the back in the boot.

Also used these rca cables. They are coated/shielded. Not getting any whines or interference now. Did with the erisin

Hi Ad,
So I looked at your subwoofer, the KSC-SW11 the RMS on that unit is only 75 w.
Is that enough power for you?

I’m going to consult my friend today about the pop that you get with switching your stereo on and off, and then I’ll get back to you let you know what can be done about it, if anything?

I see that you’re in the south-east, I live in Gravesend where do you live mate, would love to come and have a look at your car at some point?
 

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