What size torx?

[IanPS]

I want to remove and clean the EGR on my 2001 e220cdi. Can anyone tell me what size the 3 torx bolts are?
Suggestions of where to buy the appropriate spanner/socket along with any tips on removing said EGR much appreciated.

 

[Tinkerer]

If I remember correctly you will definitely need a torx socket with short extension and knuckle joint to get at the bottom bolt and a long extension to get at the mounting bracket bolts can't remember the sizes though. Don't take the mounting bracket off the EGR or you will need a fancy torx spanner to tighten it up when you remount it. Probably better to buy a set from machine mart as they are not too expensive, I think that 3/8" drive would be the largest for this job. There is also a small torx head bolt under the EGR that will have to be released to get it off, I used a 10mm spanner on the nut and held the head with pliers. Good luck

 

[Stratman]

This should cover all eventualities.

The Halford Professional range have a lifetime no quibble guarantee and are decent quality tools.

 

[Tinkerer]

Do MB always use popular sizes??

 

[IanPS]

Thanks to all.
I've purchased an E10 Female Star socket from Halfords and my order of relevant resistors and diodes has arrived from RS components. So this weekend I'll give it a go, both cleaning out the egr and applying a shunt to disable it.
A colleague said I should also check the exhaust butterfly valve... anyone got any idea what he's talking about?

 

[IanPS]

Bit more help needed please.

OK, so I removed the EGR. Now I know what Tinkerer meant about not removing the mounting bracket. Of course that required another visit to Halfords to replace the lonely E10 with a complete set. I also got a 3/8" Dual position Extension Bar set. These made life much easier, avoiding the need for a knuckle joint.
The inside of the EGR is ugh! However that isn't my new problem.
On removal, I spotted two loose wires broken away from a sensor - a temperature sensor I think, in the large hose leading from the intercooler to the EGR. I've extracted the sensor and rewired it, but, there are two wires - brown/white and green/white and I have no idea which way round they connect.
Incidentally, there is a pressure? sensor on the opposite side of the pipe.
If anyone else is looking at this, the female torx sizes needed are E10 and E12.

 

[IanPS]

Results so far

Cleaned and replaced EGR. It definitely closes, not sure how well it opens.
Reattached IAT? sensor, Green/White to pin 2. Suspect it does not matter which way round the connections are. Have not yet attached the EGR shunt.
Short test drive and at first I thought all problems solved, but it soon returned to limp mode (max 3000rpm and little power at low speeds). However, it does seem to be running smoother, or is that just wishful thinking.
Tomorrow I'll try it with the shunt wired in.

 

[Tinkerer]

Mine looked as if it was closing but infact was still passing causing the limp mode, had to buy a new one in the end. Whats and EGR shunt? don't recall seeing anything like that on mine.

 

[IanPS]

Mine looked as if it was closing but infact was still passing causing the limp mode, had to buy a new one in the end. Whats and EGR shunt? don't recall seeing anything like that on mine.

Suspect I will be following you in buying a new one.

The EGR shunt is just an electric circuit as introduced by Dieselman in his thread "disabling EGR".

This afternoon I fitted this circuit. Car in the main now runs great, power back and much smoother. But....
occasionally drops back into limp mode and appears to be hunting slightly at tick-over when in limp mode.

So far I've only done a couple of short runs. Will be interesting to see the result of a longer run.

 

[IanPS]

Vacuum?

OK so now permanently in limp mode.
Decided to remove the egr shunt, ready for a visit to my local garage. No change in the way it runs.
However, I did notice that there appears to be no vacuum between egr monitor/solenoid/controller thingy and the egr valve. Tested by removing hose and putting finger over exposed hole while son varied revs from idle through to 3000rpm.
Any suggestions on how to test whether it is just the controller or the whole vacuum system?
Getting seriously out of my depth, but it's strangely enjoyable.

 

[corned]

Not speaking from a position of experience here, but have you swapped over the brown/white and green/white wires on the terminals - even if it's only to rule that out as a possibility?

 

[IanPS]

Not sure why the IAT terminals should make any difference, but I'll give it a try while I'm tinkering tomorrow.

 

[Alex Crow]

A vacuum fault is a strong possibility, and will stop the turbo actuator from moving also.

Have seen all sorts cause this, but rodent damage, pipe fractures and leaking diaphragms are favourite.

What fault codes are you working with, P1470 by any chance?

 

[IanPS]

A vacuum fault is a strong possibility, and will stop the turbo actuator from moving also.

Have seen all sorts cause this, but rodent damage, pipe fractures and leaking diaphragms are favourite.

What fault codes are you working with, P1470 by any chance?

Intrigued by the rodent damage.

Not sure of the codes. When this all started, took it to the MB dealer who quoted me a figure approximately twice the value of the car. Will see if I can find the original quote and associated paperwork. Car went on SORN for several months, then my local garage put it back on the road at a tenth of the price. He was fairly sure that the MAF and Catalytic converter were not the problems (as quoted for by MB dealer) but did replace an obviously split air hose (missed by MB dealer).
Following this work the limp mode disappeared for a couple of months.

Is there a simple test to check Vacuum system? Loose Wastegate? Trying to sound knowledgeable - actually, I have no idea what the wastegate looks like or where to find it.

 

[Tinkerer]

Yep, rodent damage can be common as well as annoying !
If the EGR does not seal off completely it can cause the engine to hunt because the MAF does not know how much air is entering the engine and will cause a 'plausibility' error that triggers limp mode intermittently.
The waste gate is part of the turbo which I believe dumps exhaust gas into the exhaust when it is not needed for the turbo.

 

[IanPS]

Tempting providence

Last weekend, in an attempt to track down any vacuum leak, I removed the air filter housing.
Turbo actuator appeared to be functional, so reseated all hoses, gave the MAF a squirt of carb cleaner, same for the egr valve - both had previously been thoroughly cleaned. Put everything back together, wondering where to look next.
Since then, the car has run perfectly normal.
I wonder how long for.

PS. Don't think I have a rodent problem judging by the cat paw prints across the engine, in via the tail gate and across all the seats.

 

[IanPS]

End of story

I don't know if any one is still watching this thread, but thought I'd finish the story.

Needless to say, the fault returned after a few days. Everything by now working smoothly, just no power and unable to rev over 3000rpm.

Removed egr valve and gave it a very thorough cleaning, including applying a vacuum to it so that I could clean it with an open valve. No noticeable difference.
Borrowed an egr from a working car. Again no difference.

The MAF had been the first thing to be changed in this saga, but I have always been suspicious of it. So went and purchased another one. Problem disappeared immediately. :bannana:

A week and hundreds of miles later, the car is running beautifully. Smooth (well for a MB diesel ), powerful and fuel consumption back up to the low 40s mpg.

So was it just the MAF, probably, but I think a number of other factors added to and disguised the problem. Notably; a sticking egr valve, a slight vacuum leak, faulty thermostat, leaking fuel pipe and a generally gunged up engine.
In addition to the things mentioned earlier in this thread I have also replaced the thermostat and a fuel pipe and added some Millers additive to the fuel.