Brake pad sh£t
Yes
Wheel dust barrier spray?
- Thread starter merc estate
- Start date
Yes
Toobad
Active Member
You may want to consider trying some Finish Kare FK100P which is a High Temperature paste wax. It will resist the red hot brake compound particles which fuse to normal wheel protectants or the wheel lacquer itself. It comes in an enormous 412g tin, provides a ridiculous gloss to the bodywork and insane levels of water beading. Very clever German technology.
Finish Kare Hi-Temp Wax Paste £20.95 delivered
Finish Kare Hi-Temp Wax Paste £20.95 delivered
chrisk2010
MB Enthusiast
chrisk2010
MB Enthusiast
I myself haven't tried this but Bouncer's make pretty decent stuff and if you was looking for something fairly new maybe have a look at this one:
You'd need to decontaminate the alloy but one you have that base layer it can be stacked.
You'd need to decontaminate the alloy but one you have that base layer it can be stacked.
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Some good recommendations here, thanks.
My suggestion would be not to spray any slippery stuff directly onto wheels, but to spray it onto a cloth or other applicator then wipe it on the wheel. In this way you don’t contaminate the inevitability exposed brake disc with overspray.....
My suggestion would be not to spray any slippery stuff directly onto wheels, but to spray it onto a cloth or other applicator then wipe it on the wheel. In this way you don’t contaminate the inevitability exposed brake disc with overspray.....
MrGreedy
MB Enthusiast
A very good recommendation.
What I didn't mention is that every time I clean my car, I take the wheels off for a full back and front clean. Is that normal?
Who cares about normal? I think that a paste/wax application is more durable than a spray... based on my own intuition. With a polish, you can also ensure that you have personally covered every nook and cranny.
I like to polish the alloys front and rear before I fit them to the car (summer and winter alloys). With the double speed wax I find that an application of the auto wheel spray pretty much cleans the visible portions of the wheel, particularly in conjunction with a set of 'wheel woolies' which offer good reach with a variety of sizes.
Once the alloys come off, the double speed wax means that any brake dust that has been 'caked on', is clean with either no or a little effort. It's quite gratifying, really.
If you're removing the wheels every time to clean the vehicle and you clean the vehicle regularly, then it doesn't seem to matter if you use a spray or a polish.
I like to polish the alloys front and rear before I fit them to the car (summer and winter alloys). With the double speed wax I find that an application of the auto wheel spray pretty much cleans the visible portions of the wheel, particularly in conjunction with a set of 'wheel woolies' which offer good reach with a variety of sizes.
Once the alloys come off, the double speed wax means that any brake dust that has been 'caked on', is clean with either no or a little effort. It's quite gratifying, really.
If you're removing the wheels every time to clean the vehicle and you clean the vehicle regularly, then it doesn't seem to matter if you use a spray or a polish.
Spider10
MB Enthusiast
Hi im having my wheels refurbed ready for better weather im contemplating using KKD-EVOLVE after i get them back, but the wheels will be matt black with diamond lip not gloss (as they should be) most ceramic coatings are not recommended for matt any advice?
Thanks
Thanks
merc estate
MB Enthusiast
Jesus, i love things shiny and immaculate but taking the wheels off all the time is a bit too much for me, but i do use the wheel woolies and i can get my hand in with the amg wheels to do the barrels, so maybe deep down i must be as bad, thanks for all the recommendations. i have narrowed it down to 3 Poorboys wheel sealant, Chemical guys wheel guard or Bit hambler speed wax, i suppose the speed wax you can use on anything so may be more useful, i will have to look on utube for a video on that, but was impressed with the shine of Chemical guys on video, now they wouldn't just be pulling my leg would they? so just gone from a dust spray to getting even more involved, is this the slippery slope.
I have experience with double speed wax and yes, it has multiple applications and is a serious product, as is the style of Bilt Hamber. Finish Kare 1000 was also a good recommendation.
Toobad
Active Member
You definitely seem to be on the right track with with the KKD. A bit pricey but it is considered a second generation sealant, a step up from the ubiquitous Gtechniq C5 Wheel armour and with a variant available for non-gloss wheel finishes to boot.Hi im having my wheels refurbed ready for better weather im contemplating using KKD-EVOLVE after i get them back, but the wheels will be matt black with diamond lip not gloss (as they should be) most ceramic coatings are not recommended for matt any advice?
Thanks
Krystal Kleen Detail R-evolve Matte @ £44.99 delivered
Spider10
MB Enthusiast
MrGreedy
MB Enthusiast
So, a bit of an update.
I have (a bit late) swapped my summer wheels for winter wheels this weekend, and tonight I have been cleaning.
I applied 2 coats of KKD R-evolve in the summer to my freshly refurbed (Aug-2020) front wheels, and it was a real pain to apply. My comments are here
In summary, it was 24 degrees and really sticky and a nightmare.
This evening, cleaning the ceramic coated wheels took a real effort. They are in the bath with overhead shower.
There was so much iron particular bonded in the barrel of the wheel, repeated coats with the fallout remover and glue and tar remover, and back to the fallout remover. In the end, I had to use a medium bristle brush with fallout, then GTR, with rinse and blow drying in between. No touch wasn't an option and the following 'washing' products didn't touch it:
Pre-citrus.
Bilt-hamber snow foam.
Autobrite snow foam.
Dodo born to be mild.
Foaming pH neutral alloy wheel cleaner.
Alkanline wheel cleaner.
It was only really going at it with the fallout>GTR>fallout>GTR in repeated cycles over about an hour or more per wheel that got most of it off.
A quick test with a clay bar in the barrel after revealed there was almost nothing left after that so the intensive cleaning had worked.
So, my experience of ceramic coatings is..... they are not as good at preventing iron particulate from adhering to the wheel as a wax product that is removed and re-applied after every wash.
On a more positive note, the faces of the alloys cleaned up really easily and looked good. A light flick round with Dodo shampoo and a hogs hair brush was enough (after pre-wash stages).
One other interesting thing. I thought I would apply the old beeswax furniture polish trick that I mentioned previously, after the clean, so next time, I would see what it's like to remove the iron particulate.
I could tell the KKD is still on there and still working, because I couldn't apply the furniture polish!
It was just beading and running off.Tomorrow I'm going to try a "hybrid ceramic" paste wax, and see if that takes and can work as a sacrificial layer. I'm just going to apply it to the barrels, which suits me fine as it's much easier than applying to the spokes and the worst affected part of the wheel by a mile.
In bad new, there are very very tiny traces of lacquer deterioration on my diamond cut wheels after about 5 months and very few miles
I hoped that with the ceramic coat and taking good care of them I would have had better than average luck with durability, but it seams not. They are deteriorating at sharp edge detail on the wheel, in areas that can't possibly have been damage by handling, and far to specific a repeated location to be stone damage. I'm now wishing I'd had them just plain powder coated either sparkle or hyper silver now. Would have been cheaper too.
Last edited:
Spider10
MB Enthusiast
This is my wheel now ( all 4 basically the same) going for refurbishment on monday diamond lip again please tell me yours look better than these and is it worth the £45 for kkd matt ?20200824 112025 — Postimages]So, a bit of an update.
I have (a bit late) swapped my summer wheels for winter wheels this weekend, and tonight I have been cleaning.
I applied 2 coats of KKD R-evolve in the summer to my freshly refurbed front wheels, and it was a real pain to apply. My comments are here
In summary, it was 24 degrees and really sticky and a nightmare.
This evening, cleaning the ceramic coated wheels took a real effort. They are in the bath with overhead shower.
There was so much iron particular bonded in the barrel of the wheel, repeated coats with the fallout remover and glue and tar remover, and back to the fallout remover. In the end, I had to use a medium bristle brush with fallout, then GTR, with rinse and blow drying in between. No touch wasn't an option and the following 'washing' products didn't touch it:
Pre-citrus.
Bilt-hamber snow foam.
Autobrite snow foam.
Dodo born to be mild.
Foaming pH neutral alloy wheel cleaner.
Alkanline wheel cleaner.
It was only really going at it with the fallout>GTR>fallout>GTR in repeated cycles over about an hour or more per wheel that got most of it off.
A quick test with a clay bar in the barrel after revealed there was almost nothing left after that so the intensive cleaning had worked.
So, my experience of ceramic coatings is..... they are not as good at preventing iron particulate from adhering to the wheel as a wax product that is removed and re-applied after every wash.
On a more positive note, the faces of the alloys cleaned up really easily and looked good. A light flick round with Dodo shampoo and a hogs hair brush was enough (after pre-wash stages).
One other interesting thing. I thought I would apply the old beeswax furniture polish trick that I mentioned previously, after the clean, so next time, I would see what it's like to remove the iron particulate.
I could tell the KKD is still on there and still working, because I couldn't apply the furniture polish!
Tomorrow I'm going to try a "hybrid ceramic" paste wax, and see if that takes and can work as a sacrificial layer. I'm just going to apply it to the barrels, which suits me fine as it's much easier than applying to the spokes and the worst affected part of the wheel by a mile.
In bad new, there are very very tiny traces of lacquer deterioration on my diamond cut wheels after about 7 months and very few miles
I hoped that with the ceramic coat and taking good care of them I would have had better than average luck with durability, but it seams not. They are deteriorating at sharp edge detail on the wheel, in areas that can't possibly have been damage by handling, and far to specific a repeated location to be stone damage. I'm now wishing I'd had them just plain powder coated either sparkle or hyper silver now. Would have been cheaper too.
MrGreedy
MB Enthusiast
My wheels look as they did when they were refurbed, except around the 5 small holes that are in between each bolt hole, where I'm getting lacquer lift. See this thread
If during refurb and prior to the base powder coat, a burr rotary tool had been used to smooth of the corners on the wheel bolt holes and the decorative holes I have between each of those, then this would have be avoided.
My dead serious advice is if you are going for refurb, then just go for a single colour powder coat. Either hyper silver (standard on some Mercs I believe) anthracite, or a custom metallic grey close to that.
Alloys should also only be diamond cut twice I believe, after that not enough metal would be remaining for a third or more cuts.
Gloss wheels are easier to clean. The KKD is cheaper for gloss.
I'd also ask the alloy wheel refurber if they could ensure that the same level of gloss is applied to the barrel as the outer face (outer face is great, barrel is dull on my refurbs). Aesthetically this is pointless, but I wonder if from a maintenence and cleaning perspective whether this would be advantageous?
If during refurb and prior to the base powder coat, a burr rotary tool had been used to smooth of the corners on the wheel bolt holes and the decorative holes I have between each of those, then this would have be avoided.
My dead serious advice is if you are going for refurb, then just go for a single colour powder coat. Either hyper silver (standard on some Mercs I believe) anthracite, or a custom metallic grey close to that.
Alloys should also only be diamond cut twice I believe, after that not enough metal would be remaining for a third or more cuts.
Gloss wheels are easier to clean. The KKD is cheaper for gloss.
I'd also ask the alloy wheel refurber if they could ensure that the same level of gloss is applied to the barrel as the outer face (outer face is great, barrel is dull on my refurbs). Aesthetically this is pointless, but I wonder if from a maintenence and cleaning perspective whether this would be advantageous?
Spit n Polish applied Ford Astral Silver to my winter alloys. The Diamond Cut alloys suffer from milky lacquer, which is a shame.
MrGreedy
MB Enthusiast
To be fair, on my winter alloys I've gone for the Ford finish equivalent at the place I used. They called it 'sparkle silver', but the guy said it's what they put on most Ford refurbs.
Spider10
MB Enthusiast
Mine have never been refurbed as im aware of i see what your saying about diamond lip true can only be done so many times but a diamond white c63 doesn't look right (IMO) With a single colour wheel against the red calipers
