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Which Oil ?

Dave Richardson

MB Enthusiast
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Oct 14, 2007
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1,063
Location
Plymstock Plymouth
Car
W176 A class 180 cdi
Just about to do a quick Oil & filter change on my W203 220 CDI Coupe,

Question is which oil ? I'm looking at Mobil 10/40, Millers Nanodrive EE 10/40 or Millers Nanodrive EE 5/30.

The car is used many for short runs & has covered 110K

Anyone with thoughts please

Dave
 
Mine has done 150k. Engine a lot smoother running shell helix ultra.

Sent from my iPhone using MBClub UK
 
All my cars currently running Shell Helix but nothing wrong with Millers either but would not put Mobil 1 anywhere near my cars.
 
flango said:
All my cars currently running Shell Helix but nothing wrong with Millers either but would not put Mobil 1 anywhere near my cars.
why not?!
 
I'd imagine cause there might be lots of fake Mobil 1 on the market,just guessing...
 
There is loads of fake stuff about but most of the engine failures I have seen which were down to failure of plastic components such as timing chain guides etc have always had one thing in common, they have always been run on Mobil 1. There's loads of threads on the Porsche forum about this and plastic engine components, so true or not I err on the side of caution and avoid it.
 
There is loads of fake stuff about but most of the engine failures I have seen which were down to failure of plastic components such as timing chain guides etc have always had one thing in common, they have always been run on Mobil 1. There's loads of threads on the Porsche forum about this and plastic engine components, so true or not I err on the side of caution and avoid it.

Not sure about plastic degredation when using Mobil 1, but years ago a friend had a BX-16v main bearing let go a day or so after an oil change using Mobil 1.
The bearing overheated at full load, knackering the crank.

Before anyone slags the engine off, these were tough and powerful units, having been designed for Group-B rally cars. The T-16 is a legendary engine, the 1.9-16v is a N/a version.
 
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I had always run Mobil 1 until this last oil change in January. Now trying that GM dexos II stuff that comes highly recommended. Since change the engine has become noticeably louder and more diesel like sounding. With mobil 1 in, it was the quietest, smoothest I6 cdi I've experienced.
I'll be going back to Mobil 1 at the next change (will be done nice and early this time) and will see if it quietens back down.
 
I had always run Mobil 1 until this last oil change in January. Now trying that GM dexos II stuff that comes highly recommended. Since change the engine has become noticeably louder and more diesel like sounding. With mobil 1 in, it was the quietest, smoothest I6 cdi I've experienced.
I'll be going back to Mobil 1 at the next change (will be done nice and early this time) and will see if it quietens back down.

I bet you didn't flush the engine before you used the GM Dexos this is a must after Mobil 1 or you get noisy engines just like you describe.
 
Have changed the oil every 5-6000 miles and engine is clean as a whistle (for a diesel) so didn't think a flush would be needed.

I'll have a think about that!
 
I cant see not flushing making any difference. How can it?
 
In the past, MB Dealers used on my car Castrol 5w-30, and Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 / 229.5, Olly uses Mobile Super 3000 XE 5w-30 / 229.51. All seem good as far as I can tell.... no flushing, by the way.
 
Mobil 1 is one of the few true synthetic oils left in the market and possibly the best oil you can use. Don't listen to all the rubbish spouted about it causing problems.

It is the factory oil of choice for the Nissan GT-R, all Porsche vehicles, Mercedes-Benz AMG, and many other high performance cars like Corvettes & Vipers in the US.

In the late 90's, Mobil took Castrol to court for claiming their fully synthetic oil was still synthetic even after changing the formula and using mineral oil as a base. Mobil lost the case and most other oil companies changed to a mineral base while still claiming their oils were fully synthetic. Needless to say, they still charge a premium for a mineral based oil because they are still allowed to claim it is fully synthetic on the label. A bit of a con if you ask me.

If you want a true fully synthetic, use Mobil 1.

Russ
 
I cant see not flushing making any difference. How can it?

I don't know bit according to the dealer we did work for they told us that MB told them always to flush when changing from Mobil 1 to Shell helix or castrol as there had been customer complaints about harsh sounding engines that were changed without flushing, so we just carried out their recommended procedure and never experienced any roughness on engines
 
Why is no one talking about the Petronas Syntium Oil from ECP. This stuff is brilliant,running it now on a OM642 and car feels as new and quiet and does hasn't needed topping since the last service 8k ago. I strongly recommend this Petronas stuff
 
Why is no one talking about the Petronas Syntium Oil from ECP. This stuff is brilliant,running it now on a OM642 and car feels as new and quiet and does hasn't needed topping since the last service 8k ago. I strongly recommend this Petronas stuff

Petronas Syntium 7000 0w40 does indeed have the MB-Approval 229.5 as does PULSAR CR 5w40 which is also a Petronas oil, according to this list MB 229.5 - Multigrade engine oils (Specification 229.5) - Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids
 
As for the OP's question... I believe the oil types he mentions are all semi-synth, so I suggest that he checks what the owners manual says for his car / model year because at current all oil types i.e. 229.3/229.5x etc must be full-synth.
 
Mobil 1 is one of the few true synthetic oils left in the market and possibly the best oil you can use. Don't listen to all the rubbish spouted about it causing problems.

It is the factory oil of choice for the Nissan GT-R, all Porsche vehicles, Mercedes-Benz AMG, and many other high performance cars like Corvettes & Vipers in the US.

In the late 90's, Mobil took Castrol to court for claiming their fully synthetic oil was still synthetic even after changing the formula and using mineral oil as a base. Mobil lost the case and most other oil companies changed to a mineral base while still claiming their oils were fully synthetic. Needless to say, they still charge a premium for a mineral based oil because they are still allowed to claim it is fully synthetic on the label. A bit of a con if you ask me.

If you want a true fully synthetic, use Mobil 1.

Russ

True synthetic oils are made from PAO or Esters of which Mobil , Castrol LLO types and Shell Helix are. Polymer synthesis is my business and has been for 35 years. I agree not all synthetics are true synthetic and are heavily modified with mineral oil bases.

My point was that there is nothing wrong with mobil 1 its good stuff if its been in your engine from new stick with it and it will give you good protection, but don't switch away from it to other oils or switch from other oils to it as from what I've seen and what is reported on other forums Porsche included thats when the problems start.
 
flango said:
There is loads of fake stuff about but most of the engine failures I have seen which were down to failure of plastic components such as timing chain guides.
Don't think there should be any plastic components in the engine,as plastic will fail first...I'm running on Mobil1 now,but I think to switch to Castrol.Is it a good idea?
 
Make sure that if you have a diesel particulate filter, that you use low ash oil. Also there should be a sticker with a code for the correct oil type on the engine cam cover.
 

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