190e Engine cutting out

Seamster15

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HI Guy's

My 190e (2.0) has developed an annoying habit, the engine cuts out and goes dead while driving! as if someone has turned off at the key. If I stop I can restart, but a couple of time I have had to wait a few mins before she goes again.

Any idea's ?
 
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Seamster15

Seamster15

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oh, sounds expensive....
Where is it located?
 

Ian B Walker

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front of the engine, little sensor held in with a bracket by the crankshaft pulley. Not expensive if memory serves me right about £35.
 

Will

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When you say that it cuts out, does it cut out dead when driving, or just cut out when idling/backing off the throttle at low speed?

Trying to work out whether it's an issue with not maintaining an idling running speed, or a total loss of power. Obviously numerous possibile faults (and remedies) but a few common ones are:

The microswitch on the throttle (decceleration/idle thing) lets the car know that the throttle is at the 'idle' position. Could be worth checking that (making sure it's closing properly and the contacts are ok) and the OVP relay if it's just not idling properly. The OVP relay is a small silver unit (about 1" square and 2" tall) with one or two blade fuses on top, situated behind the battery near the bulkhead. Check that the contacts are clean, and that the fuses are intact. Could obviously be faulty internally, but that would be a good start. You can check with a multimeter to see if there's a noticable voltage drop through the relay - if you're in doubt.

But if it's cutting out totally without restarting then it could be something like the fuel pump relay. They tend to give trouble when they're older and fail in a way such as this. No power to the fuel pumps - hence no fuel delivery.

When you say that it won't restart, after cranking it over for a while, is there any smell of unburned fuel in the exhaust? If not - suspect fuel delivery, hence the relay could be at fault. Easy to diagnose though - if you bridge the terminals 30 & 87 under the relay, it'll run the fuel pump continuously (don't leave it like that for long). Should be enough to rule it out or not though.

Any other info would be useful :)

Will
 
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Seamster15

Seamster15

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It could be the crank position sensor that is on its way out
Would this affect the Rev counter when trying to restart the car after a failure? As i've noticed that the needle mooves around to 7k and above when trying to restart?
 

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The first two things I would be looking at are the fuel pump relay and the OVP. Can you hear the fuel pump when it cuts out?
 
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Seamster15

Seamster15

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The first two things I would be looking at are the fuel pump relay and the OVP. Can you hear the fuel pump when it cuts out?
Just changed the OVP for a new one from ECP, still cutting out, so will check now to see if I can hear the fuel pump after cut out, many thanks for your help.
 

Will

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Just changed the OVP for a new one from ECP, still cutting out, so will check now to see if I can hear the fuel pump after cut out, many thanks for your help.
Have a look in my post above :)

You can easily test/eliminate the fuel pump relay by means of bridging the terminals to allow the fuel pump to run continuously.

Will
 
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Seamster15

Seamster15

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Have a look in my post above :)

You can easily test/eliminate the fuel pump relay by means of bridging the terminals to allow the fuel pump to run continuously.

Will
Wish I had followed you're instructions sooner! It's been so damm cold here!

I shall test - thanks again.
 
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Seamster15

Seamster15

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Hmmm changed the FPR and the OVP and still no difference...

The car idles fine and did so today untill it just cut out. Leave it for 5 mins or so and it will restart. Try to start it immediatly and it just cranks over as if there is no spark. I can hear the fuel pump when ignition is on.

Next thing to look at I guess is:

Crank position sensor
Throttle Microswitch

Any other idea? what else could make the engine simply cut out dead?

thanks for you're help
 

stwat

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Try checking the connection to the ECU behind the battery and any wires associated with it.

It has also been known for the ECU's to start playing up due to dry solder joints inside. These can be re-soldered quite easily.

Also does the car have an alarm/imobiliser that could be playing up?
 
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horatio

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I have a similar problem. The engine can lose revs then die - its very intermittent and tends to happen shortly after sitting a while in traffic. It will switch straight back on and run fine for the rest of the day!

The times its done it before have been in places I can safely coast to a stop but I'm not going to take it on a long drive again until its sorted.

I've changed the fuel pump relay and OVP...

any thoughts?

thanks
 

modfather

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my money is on crank sensor

Iv seen a faulty one cause the rev gauge to go haywire on other cars
 

WG M-B

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Disconnect the idle slide. You will have to keep the throttle running on cold sart for maybe a minute. Then drive her and see if she cuts out.
When it's this random and starts straight back up I reckon the potentiometer built into the air flow meter could be your problem
 

RBYCC

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You might also want to test your ignition coil.
If the coil is faulty it can reduce the high voltage output as it heats up which is enough to stall the motor.
As it cools down it will supply the required high voltage and the motor will start and run until the coil heats up.

Pull your spark plugs and inspect the condition....they will at least tell you whether your problem is ignition or fuel. :thumb:
 

horatio

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cheers all

Just discovered that the ribbed vacuum pipe to the ICV has a big split... could this be the cause?
 

RBYCC

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cheers all

Just discovered that the ribbed vacuum pipe to the ICV has a big split... could this be the cause?
The split hose will cause a problem in starting and running and show primarily as a low rpm stalling/idle problem.
 

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