chan268
Member
If the fuel injectors were changed recently then it couldn't be the system.
Get your car running and check there are no drops coming from the fuel pump. You need to take the plastic shield off because it can catch any drops if it was
Get your car running and check there are no drops coming from the fuel pump. You need to take the plastic shield off because it can catch any drops if it was
chan268
Member
Also fuel evaporates so checking the driveway method wouldnt work.
chan268
Member
petrol fuel that is
damiangt3
New Member
Someone hasn't put the plug leads on incorrectly?
Beamish
New Member
+ 1 on having the compression checked.
Another thought, is it fitted with a catalytic converter ? If so, this may be blocked which would result in very noticable loss of pulling power together with increased consumption.
Beamish.
Another thought, is it fitted with a catalytic converter ? If so, this may be blocked which would result in very noticable loss of pulling power together with increased consumption.
Beamish.
grober
MB Master
Still sounds like a possible lack of ignition advance -have you checked it with a timing light at higher revs. I can't tell the exact figures for your car but should be about 8/10 degrees BTDC at idle increasing to at least 20/25 degrees at 3,000 The settings are often marked on the bonnet slam panel, but its more important just to confirm a steady advance as the revs rise.
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ched999uk
Active Member
One thing to check is the 'cold start valve'. I had a few VW K-jetronic cars including the Turbo Technics 16V golf development car 
I see to remember on the engine block there used to be a rectangular block that bolted to the engine block and had 2 braided fuel hoses coming from the fuel distribution manifold. If memory serves me well it increased th efuel pressure when the engine was cold. A sort of auto choke to increase the pressure and thus make it a richer mixture to aid cold running. If this device has failed it might be making your engine run rich all the time!!!!! I am guessing you have had the CO read and the HC. A simple MoT exhaust gas meter should give you an idea if you are running rich. Well it will at idle at least, I am sure a local garage would give you the figures for a beer or two. You need CO, HC and O readings.
Hope that helps and isnt way off base for your car?
I see to remember on the engine block there used to be a rectangular block that bolted to the engine block and had 2 braided fuel hoses coming from the fuel distribution manifold. If memory serves me well it increased th efuel pressure when the engine was cold. A sort of auto choke to increase the pressure and thus make it a richer mixture to aid cold running. If this device has failed it might be making your engine run rich all the time!!!!! I am guessing you have had the CO read and the HC. A simple MoT exhaust gas meter should give you an idea if you are running rich. Well it will at idle at least, I am sure a local garage would give you the figures for a beer or two. You need CO, HC and O readings.
Hope that helps and isnt way off base for your car?
grober
MB Master
One thing to check is the 'cold start valve'. I had a few VW K-jetronic cars including the Turbo Technics 16V golf development car
I see to remember on the engine block there used to be a rectangular block that bolted to the engine block and had 2 braided fuel hoses coming from the fuel distribution manifold. If memory serves me well it increased th efuel pressure when the engine was cold. A sort of auto choke to increase the pressure and thus make it a richer mixture to aid cold running. If this device has failed it might be making your engine run rich all the time!!!!! I am guessing you have had the CO read and the HC. A simple MoT exhaust gas meter should give you an idea if you are running rich. Well it will at idle at least, I am sure a local garage would give you the figures for a beer or two. You need CO, HC and O readings.
Hope that helps and isnt way off base for your car?
The early Jetronic K cars had a warm up regulator as you said but by 92 they had moved on to jetronic KE which did away with the WUR and used electronic modification of the pressure control instead called an EHA.
renault12ts
MB Club Veteran
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
- Messages
- 16,674
- Car
- 2005 W215 CL500.
The car was lying for a while then when i got round to sorting it both the clutch and gearbox went! Got a good gearbox from a friend for 50 quid, was well chuffed! Can't remember how much the clutch cost, it was a while back. In NI there isn't very many people knowledgeable with old mercs apart from the merc garages.
I wish it was as simple as the handbrake stickingTank is definitely 50 litres.
On the contrary, there are many Mercedes specialists in NI. Where do you live, I'm sure I can give you one or two close by. Such a sweeping statement!!
Check the wires to the ECU temp sender. They are known for cracking and braking. If broken/cracked the ecu will be getting dodgy signals and will probably go into safe mode which always gives a rich mixture to be on the safe side.
My 2.6 and 2.3-16 both had broken wires on the connections. New ones are cheap to buy from Mercedes and come with lots of wire attached so you can replace as far back in the wiring as you need to. Fitting is simply a case of cutting out the bad wires/connectors and soldering in the new ones.
Doing this transformed how my valver ran.
My 2.6 and 2.3-16 both had broken wires on the connections. New ones are cheap to buy from Mercedes and come with lots of wire attached so you can replace as far back in the wiring as you need to. Fitting is simply a case of cutting out the bad wires/connectors and soldering in the new ones.
Doing this transformed how my valver ran.
