190e no get up and go!!!

[grober]

Does your car have the old type of distributor with a vacuum advance and control diaphragm on the side or the newer ignition system?

 

[jpskiller]

Does your car have the old type of distributor with a vacuum advance and control diaphragm on the side or the newer ignition system?

I dont know, do you have pictures of both!

 

[jpskiller]

Second check is to remove each HT lead one at a time, including the coil king lead and check its condition along its length looking for cracks and splits. Check the condition of the connectors at each end, and in the cap/coil, checking for the presence of corrosion. Then, check the resistance of each lead. You'll find the readings should be in the 10 - 20 K Ohm range. If you find a lead with a much higher resistance, or completely open circuit, then, it's definitely had it.

Checked the leads, they are all within tolerance except for the KING LEAD, that one gives me erractive reading for a sec and then down to 0, could this be the cause.

Done same test on my other car and get same readings, so I guess I can rule out leads..

 

[grober]

I dont know, do you have pictures of both!

5 is with vacuum diaphragm
8 without

 

[jpskiller]

5 is with vacuum diaphragm
8 without

My car is the one with a vacuum diaphragm, does this make a difference as to where the problem might be

 

[jpskiller]

OK, just changed the OVP relay and still the ABS light comes on and stays on where as before I removed it, it was intermittent....

gonna have to wait till got spare cash to see specialist

 

[grober]

The ABS light comes on if there is one of several faults with the ABS unit. One problem is when the supply voltage drops below a predetermined level. This is the situation with a faulty OVP when there is too much voltage drop across it. However there are many other ABS faults which also cause the light to come on. The most common is a faulty wheel/speed sensor--- one on each front wheel and one on the rear diff IFRC The wheel ones are prone to corrosion or connector problems being pretty exposed in their location. Repair is quite cheap. If the fault lies with the ABS actuator or control unit things can get a bit more expensive. None of this explains your lack of power of course unless all the car control voltages are being pulled down in some way. Time to get the AVO meter out.

 

[jpskiller]

just took car for a spin and had a play, when I select 2nd gear then the car performs and hard accelerates fine, when in 3rd and D then there is no power increase under hard acceleration, does this mean anything...

As for the ABS light, it just seems strange to me how it was very intermitent until I plulled the OVP and replaced after having it tested and then with a known working one..but agree fault may lay elsewhere, but could just be that the wiring being moved around is highlighting this?

what are the 2 ECU's as I call them for in the 190e ?

 

[Mercedes cozy]

Have you checked the oil level in your gearbox and whats the colour of the oil. Red or dark red.

My friend had a similar problem like yours and his gearbox was faulty hence the car did not want to accelerate.

 

[jpskiller]

Have you checked the oil level in your gearbox and whats the colour of the oil. Red or dark red.

My friend had a similar problem like yours and his gearbox was faulty hence the car did not want to accelerate.

oil level is fine, could do with a change, the car does accelerate, just not hard accelerate unless in slected 2nd gear as I found out today

 

[Mercedes cozy]

I would get the fuel pressure measured. If it is the pressure then change the complete fuel pump assembly with regulator.

Rather than buying one, see if you can try one or swop.