Sounds to me like the original problem was connector related and taking out the ECU and putting it back in may have been the answer. Cant really see how a reflash would have affected things. So worth a try in similar cases - unplug and replug all connectors
Sounds to me like the original problem was connector related and taking out the ECU and putting it back in may have been the answer. Cant really see how a reflash would have affected things. So worth a try in similar cases - unplug and replug all connectors
I had the same problem, and even took it to the stealership for them to sort, 4hrs of labour (£500) and they dont know why its running rich.I mentioned a flash of ECU and they didnt know what I was talking about.I tried some redex thinking it might clean something, but fuel air ratio went from 14.7 to 8. bummer.
For future reference: in my case problem was with loose contacts on the ECU. Probably damaged by one of the garages trying to find the earlier problem with P0170... I found it by accident - I pushed the cable next to the 96-pin ECU plug and the engine changed revs, so I started detailed check of the plug contacts.
That was combined with:
- oil in the engine loom (oil still there, leaks fixed, engine loom pending replacement)
- missing rubber plug in the front wall + clogged drains + tiny leak in the triangle window. All that resulted in water flood in the driver foot well. The insulation is very thick there, so I was not aware how serious is the problem (4l of water. removed..). Water triggered corrosion of can bus rail. Original can bus rails seem to be very corrosion resistant, but I had SmartTop connected. SmartTop connection was not as corrosion resistant, so corrosion of its contacts released some chemicals that opened door to proper electrochemical corrosion that took the can bus rail. I hope it might help someone in the future.
Lambda heater connector: left: good, right: in my car
Oil in the ECU plug:
Corroded SmartTop connectors: