2007 C55 Estate, laundry list

[Dammit]

Yes, it is still the same place - possibly a lesson there. We'll see what they come back with.

 

[Dammit]

Voicemail from DDR - they'll paint the door, which is good.

 

[Petrol Pete]

If I want to use the "AUX" input that the Comand system shows to be possible, how do I connect to it - do I need an additional cable?

Yes you do. But stop right there. I bought one (genuine MB)for my car and despite doing my ‘homework’ it doesn’t work with my car as the pre wiring that you see on all the You tube videos is NOT in my car. There are differences between models and (obviously) Comand or Audio 20 versions. You can buy my brand new and obviously unused cable if it fits your car. Open front passenger door gain access to the wiring in the sill , if you see a redundant white plug in there you are in business. If not seek expert advise...not mine obviously

 

[Petrol Pete]

Sorry op I missed a whole page of posts. Just noticed you already have 3.5 plug in glove box

 

[Dammit]

I've had an advisory on the MOT that the rear ARB bushes are slightly worn, and the garage has advised that the fronts are slightly worn - interesting that the MOT tester and the garage picked different ends to comment on, but there you go. I was told that the bushes are an integral part of the ARB, which sounds a little odd to me - is it true that I need to buy two new bars?

The other thing that strikes me is that I've poured cash into this car since I bought it, fixing things from broken springs to duff engine mounts - all of which I suspect were present at the last MOT. Behold the contrast between the last MOT and this most recent one:

 

[merc85]

Yes the ARB bushes are bonded to the bar

 

[Dammit]

Christmas present from the C55:

Looks like I’m only going short distances until Thursday.

 

[Dammit]

Two new Pirellis on the back and the above problem was solved. Also the summer wheels are ready for, well, summer:

 

[Dammit]

Driving back from dropping my girlfriend off at work today whenever I came to a stop with my foot on the brake the car starting lurching, engine revving ~250rpm up and down (as if I was tapping the throttle), with the revs rising slightly each time. The dash dimmed each time the revs sank back again - the car appeared to me to be about to stall, with the ECU trying to stop it. Knocking the car into neutral usually stopped it, but a couple of times I had to stop it chugging/lurching by putting my foot on the throttle and raising the revs 2-3,000 rpm, after which it settled down.
Early on, when pulling away, the jerking would if anything get worse, but then smooth out as I opened the throttle.
Feels, to my very much inexpert self, like it’s running lean. But that’s a wild guess.
I think that this must be related to the stalling issue I had a while ago - which we never found out a root cause for.

It feels like a carb'd engine that has the choke on, I'd say, with the torque converter drag being enough to bring it to the edge of stalling.

 

[cheddar]

Sure sounds like you have an intake air leak.
Common cause of that on these engines is where the oil breather goes onto the rocker cover.
Best looked at sooner rather than later as not only is running lean bad for your engine, if it gets much worse there will be oily mess all over your engine.

 

[Dammit]

There was a code for the Air Mass Meter so I’ve asked them to swap that, they checked all the hoses and found nothing. My experience of air flow meters is that they are either banjo’d or they work- not highly intermittently go wrong. But we’ll see. The car hasn’t missed a beat whilst DDR have had it, because of course it won’t.

 

[Dammit]

Car back with me, new ARB, power steering line and AMM. The old AMM was a Delphi unit and, stopped in traffic on the way home I noticed that for the first time the idle is steady- previously it always hunted up and down slightly.

Hardly conclusive- but as the only code the car the was for the AMM, fingers crossed.

 

[AltonAnt]

There was a code for the Air Mass Meter so I’ve asked them to swap that, they checked all the hoses and found nothing. My experience of air flow meters is that they are either banjo’d or they work- not highly intermittently go wrong. But we’ll see. The car hasn’t missed a beat whilst DDR have had it, because of course it won’t.

When I had this it was just the air filter housing had not seated correctly.

 

[Dammit]

Was that very intermittent, or was the fault present all the time?

 

[Dammit]

£5,257.56 so far to the garage, which is much less than the 911 but still somewhat more than I'd hoped.

Total including winter wheels, respraying the arches and bonnet, an official Mercedes Bluetooth dongle etc etc, just shy of 8k.

 

[rockits]

Wow that is fair few quid. What time period is that over though 4 years?

 

[Dammit]

I bought the car at the end of March last year

 

[rockits]

Strewth...sorry to hear that. Sounds like you haven't been too lucky. Should be well sorted now though.

 

[AltonAnt]

Was that very intermittent, or was the fault present all the time?

It was hesitant pulling away but drove ok so present at all times until the housing was reseated.
A little vaseline or silicon grease on the seal helps.

 

[Dammit]

My wing mirrors would not adjust, on either side, when using the control on the dash. I decided to investigate to see if the wiring had broken, as it is flexed backward and forward each time the car is turned on or off. Ultimately this did not go well, unfortunately.

I watched a guide on YouTube which said that you could simply bend the mirror back toward the car and then unclip the housing, so I did this.

Unfortunately there was what I would characterise as "a bad noise", and this bit fell out:

Which is a part which, when still attached, held the end of the motor which moves the wing mirror in and out:

Bugger.

I decided to carry on with my investigations, because of stubborn.

Aha!

So:

Unfortunately I can't move the mirror into position as the motor is FUBAR, so it's now in this position:

As you can see the light was going, but I did take a look at the drivers side, however this has a plastic shield which the passenger side did not, which frustrated my trim tool so I gave up:

I'm guessing I have to use a long, flat bladed screwdriver to get the drivers side off?

Also, where is the best place to get the mechanism from to replace the borked one on the passenger side?