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2010🤣 Mercedes 3.0 , Car battery reading 11.67 v, no dash lights won't turn over , dead battery ?

Has it not crossed the mind of your mechanic/friend that the broken stop start wire may just be stopping the car starting :dk:
 
My mechanic friend keeps insisting it could be steering column lock and says it just needs a new emulator, does this sound right ?
I mentioned the eis in post 15 .
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I didn't know what eis meant lol , so you think the electronic steering lock might be the issue ?
He was talking out just changing the emulator or something is this the same as changing the steering lock
EIS = Electronic Ignition Switch.

Your ‘mechanic’ …. Does he have the proper Mercedes STAR diagnostic kit? I would guess not, and I bet he isn’t an MB specialist.

Your bet bet is to find a good Independant MB specialist and let them diagnose and fix it, probably cheaper than someone guessing vague things and throwing in words that you don’t understand but will be paying for.

Without proper MB systems your friend won’t be able to identify what’s wrong, and then won’t be able to code any new units to the car.
 
My mechanic friend keeps insisting it could be steering column lock and says it just needs a new emulator, does this sound right ?
Insisting it could be….. means he doesn’t know.
 
I've got it booked in at a garage on Thursday he says it's definite steering lock from how I've described it to him and he says he can do it for around £460, is this a fair price ?
I've got to arrange the recovery as well w because car will not start atm .

Thanks in advance
 
I've got it booked in at a garage on Thursday he says it's definite steering lock from how I've described it to him and he says he can do it for around £460, is this a fair price ?
I've got to arrange the recovery as well w because car will not start atm .

Thanks in advance

Repair services range from £180 to £300 , depending where he sends it . New ones retail at £700 from what I've just seen on Google. 👍
 
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Any decent obd2 scanner would list implausible signals for the eis if it was at fault , does it suck the key in , can you get ign lights . ??
 
Any decent obd2 scanner would list implausible signals for the eis if it was at fault , does it suck the key in , can you get ign lights . ??

No , as I said in original post no ignition lights or absolutely nothing, key goes in ignition but no lights or won't do anything as I turn key

I left the guy from the garage the key on Wednesday night he said someone from garage would come out and do the repairs at my address as can't start the car.
next morning around 10 I didn't see anyone come out but someone has been at it as the panels around the steering wheel have been removed , but it's not Saturday and it I can see nobody has been out since and no further progress has been made on it .
I want to go and ask at garage tomorrow but don't want to seem pushy so thinking of waiting maybe until next week and see what happens.

is it likely he has to send the part off to be reprogrammed or something?

thanks
 
Repair services range from £180 to £300 , depending where he sends it . New ones retail at £700 from what I've just seen on Google. 👍

I want the faulty part replaced not repaired.
Apparently according to my friend an emulator should fix the issue and he says they cost around,£100.
Idk what approach the garage are taking, I think I'll be asking that once it's done .
 
I want the faulty part replaced not repaired.
Apparently according to my friend an emulator should fix the issue and he says they cost around,£100.
Idk what approach the garage are taking, I think I'll be asking that once it's done .

Must be one of these , I didn't know they existed until now :-)

 
Cheap Chinese electronics. Might work; might not. I bought a couple of 'Shenzhen Special' emulators for the passenger seat pressure pad on the R171 a few years ago; neither worked. I hope the OP has better luck.
 
Just to say that while info found on the Internet will tell you that 11.67 is 'flat', my own experience is that this in itself won't cause the symptom of a 'dead' car.

At that voltage, there will still be some lights in the cabin and some activity on the dash, as well as the solenoid clicking and maybe even a very slow turn of the starter motor.

The OP has discovered that already - this post is for the benefits of others who might be reading this.
 
Just to say that while info found on the Internet will tell you that 11.67 is 'flat', my own experience is that this in itself won't cause the symptom of a 'dead' car.

At that voltage, there will still be some lights in the cabin and some activity on the dash, as well as the solenoid clicking and maybe even a very slow turn of the starter motor.

Agreed. But to expand a little ...

Below about 11.9V a wet lead/acid battery is at 0% state of charge. It obviously still has voltage, but there's little to no ability to deliver current left ... which is how capacity is measured. It will usually be enough to operate low drain circuits (instrument cluster, radio, etc.), but is unlikely to turn the engine over. I suspect many modern vehicles would inhibit starting at that level anyway.

From a battery health POV lead sulphate crystals start to form on the plates below 12.4V, causing damage over time. Car batteries are designed to give high currents for short periods and then be immediately recharged. Deep discharge (aka 'leisure') batteries used in caravans etc. have a different internal construction designed to give low currents over long periods and to be more resistant to sulphation.
 
Agreed. But to expand a little ...

Below about 11.9V a wet lead/acid battery is at 0% state of charge. It obviously still has voltage, but there's little to no ability to deliver current left ... which is how capacity is measured. It will usually be enough to operate low drain circuits (instrument cluster, radio, etc.), but is unlikely to turn the engine over. I suspect many modern vehicles would inhibit starting at that level anyway.

From a battery health POV lead sulphate crystals start to form on the plates below 12.4V, causing damage over time. Car batteries are designed to give high currents for short periods and then be immediately recharged. Deep discharge (aka 'leisure') batteries used in caravans etc. have a different internal construction designed to give low currents over long periods and to be more resistant to sulphation.
Expanding further still, a knackered eis won't suck in the key ,nor will it even try and let the car start , no matter what state of charge the battery is , that said if the battery is so far gone , maybe the eis isn't powered enough to accept a key .

I await the solution to this thread . Has a new battery been tried ? I can't be bothered to read through it now .
 
Yes, it has, with no effect on the problem.

I'm inclined to think that the OP's mechanic friend, despite the 'lemon juice in the battery' trick (never heard that one before, but lemon juice is acidic...), has been right all along. If I get a battery problem I won't be adding lemon juice to it, though.
 
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Yes, it has, with no effect on the problem.

I'm inclined to think that the OP's mechanic friend, despite the 'lemon juice in the battery' trick (never heard that one before, but lemon juice is acidic...), has been right all along. If I get a battery problem I won't be adding lemon juice to it, though.
Wonder if when he gets home ,he goes up the apples and pears , to see uncle ned ?
 
Expanding further still, a knackered eis won't suck in the key ,nor will it even try and let the car start , no matter what state of charge the battery is , that said if the battery is so far gone , maybe the eis isn't powered enough to accept a key .

I await the solution to this thread . Has a new battery been tried ? I can't be bothered to read through it now .

Yes I bought a brand new battery and still absolutely nothing when I put key in ignition, key turns but no dash lights and no engine turn over or absolutely anything.
Guy from garage has been out I left him the key and noticed the next morning he must have been out as surround around steering wheel has been removed but he hasn't been out since then I'm guessing has to send it off to be reprogram or something
 
The garage quoted £460 for a new lock, then told me today they fixed the car and it's ready but it didn't need a new steering lock it just needed to be reprogrammed.
He's asking for £425 just for reprogramming it. I'd rather he told me it didn't need a lock and if he has asked if I was happy to pay the £425 just to reprogram it to which I'd have said no and looked elsewhere, I'm not happy that they didn't keep me updated .

Is it just me or does £425 just to reprogram it seem excessive?

He only asked an extra £40 to fit a new lock which was what he was supposed to be doing originally
 
Is it just me or does £425 just to reprogram it seem excessive?
Is your garage a recognised, recommened here, MB specialist?

If not, I'd find one.

R
 

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