Has it not crossed the mind of your mechanic/friend that the broken stop start wire may just be stopping the car starting ![Dk :dk: :dk:](/styles/mbclub/smilies/dk.gif)
![Dk :dk: :dk:](/styles/mbclub/smilies/dk.gif)
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I mentioned the eis in post 15 .
View attachment 153287
EIS = Electronic Ignition Switch.I didn't know what eis meant lol , so you think the electronic steering lock might be the issue ?
He was talking out just changing the emulator or something is this the same as changing the steering lock
Insisting it could be….. means he doesn’t know.My mechanic friend keeps insisting it could be steering column lock and says it just needs a new emulator, does this sound right ?
I've got it booked in at a garage on Thursday he says it's definite steering lock from how I've described it to him and he says he can do it for around £460, is this a fair price ?
I've got to arrange the recovery as well w because car will not start atm .
Thanks in advance
Any decent obd2 scanner would list implausible signals for the eis if it was at fault , does it suck the key in , can you get ign lights . ??
Repair services range from £180 to £300 , depending where he sends it . New ones retail at £700 from what I've just seen on Google.![]()
I want the faulty part replaced not repaired.
Apparently according to my friend an emulator should fix the issue and he says they cost around,£100.
Idk what approach the garage are taking, I think I'll be asking that once it's done .
Just to say that while info found on the Internet will tell you that 11.67 is 'flat', my own experience is that this in itself won't cause the symptom of a 'dead' car.
At that voltage, there will still be some lights in the cabin and some activity on the dash, as well as the solenoid clicking and maybe even a very slow turn of the starter motor.
Expanding further still, a knackered eis won't suck in the key ,nor will it even try and let the car start , no matter what state of charge the battery is , that said if the battery is so far gone , maybe the eis isn't powered enough to accept a key .Agreed. But to expand a little ...
Below about 11.9V a wet lead/acid battery is at 0% state of charge. It obviously still has voltage, but there's little to no ability to deliver current left ... which is how capacity is measured. It will usually be enough to operate low drain circuits (instrument cluster, radio, etc.), but is unlikely to turn the engine over. I suspect many modern vehicles would inhibit starting at that level anyway.
From a battery health POV lead sulphate crystals start to form on the plates below 12.4V, causing damage over time. Car batteries are designed to give high currents for short periods and then be immediately recharged. Deep discharge (aka 'leisure') batteries used in caravans etc. have a different internal construction designed to give low currents over long periods and to be more resistant to sulphation.
Wonder if when he gets home ,he goes up the apples and pears , to see uncle ned ?Yes, it has, with no effect on the problem.
I'm inclined to think that the OP's mechanic friend, despite the 'lemon juice in the battery' trick (never heard that one before, but lemon juice is acidic...), has been right all along. If I get a battery problem I won't be adding lemon juice to it, though.
Expanding further still, a knackered eis won't suck in the key ,nor will it even try and let the car start , no matter what state of charge the battery is , that said if the battery is so far gone , maybe the eis isn't powered enough to accept a key .
I await the solution to this thread . Has a new battery been tried ? I can't be bothered to read through it now .
Is your garage a recognised, recommened here, MB specialist?Is it just me or does £425 just to reprogram it seem excessive?
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