20116 X218 350d Fuel Filter access

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Nifty65

Unhelpful Member
Joined
May 13, 2021
Messages
34
Location
West Sussex
Car
2016 x218 CLS 350
Good evening chaps,

I have carried out my own servicing for a number of years now on a variety of models but this one has got me beat!

To access the fuel filter it appears that it is necessary to dismantle half the engine (exaggeration permitted to make the point). Seriously, after removal of the air intake components the turbo outlet pipe has a massive lug that sits on top of the fuel filter. I have seen a couple of e350 videos but they are extremely vague but the e350's also appear to have a decent space between the radiator fan and the engine. The turbo outlet pipe has to be removed in order to access the fuel filter but it is seemingly impossible to remove without first removing the grilles, radiator and fan. I simply cannot believe that a routine service item like a fuel filter should be so difficult to access. From my poor experience of main dealers and most independents I would argue that no engine with this arrangement has ever had it fuel filter replaced by either but I bet many have been charged for.

If anyone on here knows how the turbo outlet pipe can be removed then please tell with a "how to"

Cheers guys
Graham
 
Here you go buddy! good old YouTube
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Thank you for that.

Yes, I saw that one and his sentiment was spot on and particularly his references to the dealers. It doesn't however show how you remove the turbo outlet pipe from the bottom. The access on the CLS is significantly different and I just cannot work out out to remove the part. I spent the entire day yesterday trying and gave up in the end. The stealers are now charging £180 per hour plus Vat so that is not an option and an independent is only going to go through the same process as me.
 
Graham, I have done this on a 2014 e350 that i had years ago but its a bit hazy now, if i remember right down where the charge pipe goes into the black plastic merc calls it a silencer i think on front of engine there are one or two of the torque type fastening bolts holding it in place take the silencer off the engine
and the pipe will come away with it im sure there is another rubber O ring on that end also persevere youll get there, good luck
 
Graham, I have done this on a 2014 e350 that i had years ago but its a bit hazy now, if i remember right down where the charge pipe goes into the black plastic merc calls it a silencer i think on front of engine there are one or two of the torque type fastening bolts holding it in place take the silencer off the engine
and the pipe will come away with it im sure there is another rubber O ring on that end also persevere youll get there, good luck
Thanks Dave, appreciate your response and support. I think the only difference is that on the E350 there is a bit a of a gap (maybe 3-4 inches) between the fan and the engine whereas on the CLS it is barely 2inches and difficult to get your hand down there let alone with a socket. I certainly intend to persevere:)
 
The video that Dave kindly posted is based on an ML350 and whilst the engine layout appears to be the same, the engine bay must be significantly different because I cannot get access to the silencer without removing the fan housing and radiator. If anyone has a 350 CLS I would be grateful if they could take a look to see if I am missing something but the gap between the fan and the silencer is no more than the thickness of your hand and therefore impossible to hold any kind of tool.

Both the video and Dave advise that there are a couple of fastening bolts that permit the silencer to be removed and then in turn, the turbo outlet pipe.

For the life of me I cannot believe that a routine service item like a fuel filter should require such a mass of dismantling; it's completely absurd but I have now spent many hours pondering the problem and cannot see any way around it.

Please, if someone has done this on a recent model please let me know. From my experience thus far I cannot imagine a main dealer would ever bother to replace this filter.

Cheers
Graham
 
I have an X350.

The part you have to loosen is called an air damper and it connects to the metal intake pipe. I just loosen the bolts and then I get enough clearance to remove the metal pipe.
 
I have an X350.

The part you have to loosen is called an air damper and it connects to the metal intake pipe. I just loosen the bolts and then I get enough clearance to remove the metal pipe.
Many thanks for clarifying the correct name of the air damper and you can see the point of connection in the attached photo. Also in the photo you can see that the air damper is no more than a hands thickness from the fan housing and blades. I totally understand that on the ML350; X350 and E350 it must be possible to access the air damper fixings but on the CLS it is simply impossible to do anything in such a tight gap.

Have you actually done this job on a CLS?

20210515_181539.jpg
 
Many thanks for clarifying the correct name of the air damper and you can see the point of connection in the attached photo. Also in the photo you can see that the air damper is no more than a hands thickness from the fan housing and blades. I totally understand that on the ML350; X350 and E350 it must be possible to access the air damper fixings but on the CLS it is simply impossible to do anything in such a tight gap.

Have you actually done this job on a CLS?

View attachment 113187
He will have done the job on every MB known to man buddy
 
He will have done the job on every MB known to man buddy
Ok that's great to hear, so how is it done without removing the fan and radiator when it is impossible to access the air damper in the given space? The 350's are obviously very similar but the engine bay layouts are clearly different.

Is it possible to post a photo at least showing where the fixings are?
 
Somebody has previously suggested, on a c350, that the only way they could access the lower of the two mounting bolts on the plastic resonator box/silencer was from underneath after removing the under tray. Obviously not the same as a CLS but another option. Some remove the bolts, some say that just loosening them off is sufficient.

If not already considered, it's worth thinking about replacing the turbo inlet seal (red) and the O-rings on that pipe that's in the way, at the same time.
 
Somebody has previously suggested, on a c350, that the only way they could access the lower of the two mounting bolts on the plastic resonator box/silencer was from underneath after removing the under tray. Obviously not the same as a CLS but another option. Some remove the bolts, some say that just loosening them off is sufficient.

If not already considered, it's worth thinking about replacing the turbo inlet seal (red) and the O-rings on that pipe that's in the way, at the same time.
Some good tips there Tony, thank you. Underneath may very well be the only option so I will try to access a pit at some stage. I checked my friends GLC 350 today and it has at least 6 inches of clearance so very different.

Still hoping that Black C55 might come back with a useful "how to" as his mate W1ghty seems to think he will have done a CLS but if he had I guess he would have explained the procedure.
 
Ok that's great to hear, so how is it done without removing the fan and radiator when it is impossible to access the air damper in the given space? The 350's are obviously very similar but the engine bay layouts are clearly different.

Is it possible to post a photo at least showing where the fixings are?
hello Nifthy65, i am having the same exact problem you had. Any chance you figured out on removing the pipe? Thanks
 
hello Nifthy65, i am having the same exact problem you had. Any chance you figured out on removing the pipe? Thanks
I recently did my e350 coupe om642 V6. If you go through my topics . There's a whole heap of info from others and myself. Tbh you only need to back off 2 small bolts about 5mm and loosen the 3rd , the resonator box will then pull forward allowing the pipe to come away at the turbo end. It's fiddly ,just don't overthink it.
 
Definitely needed to remove the undertray to get to the bottom resonator bolt on my 2010 A207. As others have said the resonator just needs to be loose to give you enough play to get the turbo outlet pipe off. Make sure you change the o rings as it is a faff and they are very easily damaged. Invest in some of the special hose clamp pliers too as it makes things a lot easier. After all that the filter just slips out. Easy!!
 
I recently did my e350 coupe om642 V6. If you go through my topics . There's a whole heap of info from others and myself. Tbh you only need to back off 2 small bolts about 5mm and loosen the 3rd , the resonator box will then pull forward allowing the pipe to come away at the turbo end. It's fiddly ,just don't overthink it.
i don't know man, first need to make sure if the available working space on my cls is identical to the cars you worked on. There is extreme tight space, and there is a resonator cover blocking everything. anyway i will try to provide some pictures to make the thread more valuable...
 
i don't know man, first need to make sure if the available working space on my cls is identical to the cars you worked on. There is extreme tight space, and there is a resonator cover blocking everything. anyway i will try to provide some pictures to make the thread more valuable...
I think some remove the front slam panel and radiator fan cowel to gain access. Maybe the e350 was better designed to give access mines a 17 reg on a facelift. Even the bolt underneath on my car was a barsteward to get at , I managed about 2 turns in an hour of trying . That was the bolt I realised later just needs to be loose as the box tilts on it anyways to allow forward motion .

Get some photos up , I'm sure you'll get sorted out . Some lads remove the resonator turbo pipes for extra movement, in my case I didn't need to. Good luck.
 
update: i was able to undo the 2 bolts on resonator, the upper one under the belt was relatively easy, used approximately 10 mm extension arm to undo the bolt. the lower one was much more complicated, used many combination of extension arms, adapters like 3/8 to 1/2 etc. etc. to be able to position the ratchet in the most appropriate place. removed all air tubes under the hood, and i think the wrench was 20-25 cm away from the bolt head. lots of scratches on my arm, lots of time spent to fit the wrench, but i was able to undo the lower bolt, without removing the fan or tray under the car. i removed the upper bolt but i only loosened the lower bolt, thinking it would be impossible to fit the lower bolt back if i had removed. working on facelifted cls engine bay is much more diffucult than the videos available on the internet for other cars.
 
funnily enough, i just faced the same issue on my X218 as i needed to replace the turbo pipe o rings. I too decided that loosening off the resonator was too much of a ballache for me and the risk of dropping things or breaking things was too high so i put it in up at the local garage. They had it done in no time at all and charged me £20. I was a bit annoyed i couldnt do it.
 
funnily enough, i just faced the same issue on my X218 as i needed to replace the turbo pipe o rings. I too decided that loosening off the resonator was too much of a ballache for me and the risk of dropping things or breaking things was too high so i put it in up at the local garage. They had it done in no time at all and charged me £20. I was a bit annoyed i couldnt do it.
I think you got a good deal there!
 

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