A W124 Buyer Check List

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

BillyW124

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Messages
2,892
Location
North West London
Car
W124 E320 coupe, W211 E320 V6 CDI, W211 E63 V8 AMG, R129 SL 280 V6, W215 CL 600 V12 Bi Turbo.
Hi Chaps,

Somthing I've derivied that may prove useful for potential 124 buyers out there/maintenance freaks like me!

I made it a while back when i was thinking of buying another 124.

Maybe a potential Sticky, I dont know?


W124 Buyer Check List:

Paper work:

  • Check log book and maintenance service history
  • How many owners
  • Look at special notes on front of log book
  • Ensure spare keys/fobs. Glove box key works?
  • Carry out HPI check if not already done by owner or out of date
Exterior:

  • Delamination on windows front and rear windows. (check leaks in estate rear windows)
  • Front and rear wheel arches for corrosion.
  • Front head lamps glass condition and reflector condition
  • Lamp wash/wipe, check for seized motors. (use function when lights are on using windscreen washer)
  • Corrosion around sunroof edges
  • Cladding clips
  • Uneven tire tread
  • Check seals on rear screen/ front screen
  • Corrosion at the bottom of washer bottle grommet
  • Check left hand side of engine bay (next to ABS pump) for previous standing water that may lead to corrosion.
  • Condition of engine wiring harness. Is the housing burnt/perishing ?
  • Pop off the sill jacking covers to asses condition of points
  • Inner wing skin of engine bay, check for corrosion
  • Door seals
  • Side window glass seals
  • Check if doors/bonnet/boot shut tight and have consistent shut lines
  • Check bonnet insulation cover for perishing material
  • Check colour of oil/fluids. Check oil/ ATF/ coolant level/power steering fluid level
  • Check underside of oil cap and surrounding areas, should be clean
  • Check leaks around front crank oil seal, front upper timing cover seal, head gasket (Check for sweating on the head gasket all around very slight is acceptable)
  • Is the bottom plastic tray dry/wet oily?
  • Check the coolant colour in the plastic tank on the right, lift off cap and make sure there is no white gummy stuff. (if there is it’s a possible head gasket failure)
  • Check for rubber drain hole grommets and jacking point grommets.
Interior:

Boot:

  • Remove boot quarter panel cards and wheel in the well to check for water leaks/ corrosion
  • Check under metal parcel shelf and sides of it below where the rear screen sits
  • Remove petrol tank lining and inspect area’s
  • Check corrosion build up on top of rear shock mounts/rubber.
Cabin:

  • Remove front foot well deadening mats and check for water ingress/dampness
  • Big Condensation build up on inner windows?
  • If possible check the state of the rear demister if working (especially on coupes)
  • Remove kick panel carpet sidings and check for corrosion
  • Feel for dampness around the transmission tunnel
  • Remove rear seat and look at condition around where rear wheel arch is
  • Run AC for a little while; see how quickly the car warms up/gets cold
  • Listen to heater blower sound. Check all vents are blowing consistently (middle vent will always blow cold)
  • Check all usual electrics and seat belt presenters’ work. Test all optional equipment is working. IR locking usually plays up.
  • Sunroof should slide and tilt smoothly. Wind deflector should flip and close properly.
  • Check windows wind up to the top, listen to motor and regulators when testing
  • Mono Wiper should wipe smoothly and not struggle. (obviously spray washer fluid first and test)
Whilst driving:

  • Check Oil pressure. When engine is at peak temp (a little over 80 degrees is fine,) when in D the oil pressure should drop a little below 3. When you accelerate the pressure should rise and maintain a constant level of 3. This will drop down again when idle. In P the oil pressure should rise back to 3. (Based on what my current car does. Characteristics of other 124’s may differ) The oil pressure gauge should not rise to 3 when the ignition is switched on. I.E. NOT yet started.
  • See that gears engage properly use S and E switches/for 5 speed toggle through different options.
  • Use kick down switch to make sure it is working.
  • See how the car idles, look out for rev counter hunting/bouncing
  • See temp gauge should not significantly rise above 83 degrees. (in hot weather it is acceptable)
  • Listen for road noise and clunks from front wishbones over jagged terrain and uneven road surfaces.
  • Listen to rear clunks from rear sub frame over same type of surfaces
  • Steering play and steering look smoothness
  • Listen to power steering pump. Does it whine/ struggle?
  • Check mileage trip works
  • Feel of accelerator cable loose/stiff?
Garage check list:

  • Exhaust system front to back, check for gas leaks and patch worked area’s on connecting brackets etc.
  • Exit manifold for blowing and/or snapped bolts
  • Check wheel bearings for play
  • Check front and rear brake hoses for corrosion
  • Check condition of fuel lines front to rear for corrosion. Check the clips that hold this into place as these can hold a lot of muck which will eventually prove its down fall.
  • Check rear sub frame mounts for play, front and rear of subframe
  • Check Rear arms and links, check all bushings for play
  • Front control arm ball joints check these are in good order i.e. not seized up.
  • Check track rod arms
  • Check for excessive underbody corrosion/next to rear sub frame mounts and the sub frame itself.
  • Check for Oil Leaks anywhere. Engine, rear diff, gear box etc
  • Check condition of diff mounts
  • Check engine belt tension, should be nice and tight.
  • Check hoses/brake hoses/vacumn lines etc
  • Condition of water pump
  • Condition of fuel pump
  • Condition of throttle Actuator/throttle body
  • Check thermostat
  • Carry out a compression and leak down test to check engine condition
  • Condition of engine mounts and gear box mounts
  • Front rear ARB’s and bushes
  • All other bushings
  • Charcoal/ evaporator (has this been ever replaced)
  • Injector cleaning
Cheers Billy.:thumb:
 
thanks Billy
Ive bought mine now but at least i will know the things to fiddle with and break prior to having fixed:thumb:

truly great cars ..the w124:cool:

i would like a similar guide to 190E's...
 
Nice to have some stuff to look for - but being a realist it's a bit OTT! :eek:

These are old cars now, and 95%+ of them will obviously not be perfect.

Main things like severe rust, looms, head gaskets and gearbox faults are important - most of the rest are general wear and tear items that you expect with any old cars like these.

I can't see people stripping out bits to check the boot and having full garage inspections including compression/leak down tests on old 124s being bought secondhand :doh:

I tend to buy with my eyes - look for signs of proper maintenance - decent quality tyres (Michelin, Continental etc), decent paperwork for quality parts and servicing work, make sure that the main bits work ok. Length of ownership, does the seller seem genuine?

Nice cars tend to come from nice people/areas.

I don't even test drive many of the cars that I buy before purchase - doesn't really worry me to be honest, never come unstuck and I have bought loads of cars over the years - including a fair few Mercs :cool:

Just IMHO :)

Will
 
Sagging driver's seat.
Drivers Airbag replaced with silver star type.
Delay into reverse.
Clicks when moving away in reverse.
Noisy windsreen wiper
Cruise control works
Drains not blocked
Brake disks/pads for wear
Recirc/Fresh volumes similar - filter clean.
 
I wish I had done a buyer check list for the Mrs. when I got married.
 
Nice to have some stuff to look for - but being a realist it's a bit OTT! :eek:

These are old cars now, and 95%+ of them will obviously not be perfect.

Main things like severe rust, looms, head gaskets and gearbox faults are important - most of the rest are general wear and tear items that you expect with any old cars like these.

I can't see people stripping out bits to check the boot and having full garage inspections including compression/leak down tests on old 124s being bought secondhand :doh:

I tend to buy with my eyes - look for signs of proper maintenance - decent quality tyres (Michelin, Continental etc), decent paperwork for quality parts and servicing work, make sure that the main bits work ok. Length of ownership, does the seller seem genuine?

Nice cars tend to come from nice people/areas.

I don't even test drive many of the cars that I buy before purchase - doesn't really worry me to be honest, never come unstuck and I have bought loads of cars over the years - including a fair few Mercs :cool:

Just IMHO :)

Will

I agree - whilst the OP's list is useful for owners who wish to restore their cars to use as a checklist , I generally have a fair idea of a car after a quick walk round it , and for something at an asking price of a few hundred ( most W124's these days ) I would not spend hours going over a car .

The one I just bought was bought unseen , as have a number of cars I have purchased in the past , and all have turned out to be good ones . Again , I would never bother to HPI a car priced at a few hundred pounds ( different if you are spending a couple of grand upwards , but I never spend that much ) and if the worst happened , I'm only losing pocket money .

Obviously , if you're looking at a one owner , low mileage cabriolet priced at something in keeping with a new car , it is a different matter ; but most 124's now are somewhat tired and in need of TLC - so you expect faults and pay accordingly .
 
Sagging driver's seat.
Drivers Airbag replaced with silver star type.
Delay into reverse.
Clicks when moving away in reverse.
Noisy windsreen wiper
Cruise control works
Drains not blocked
Brake disks/pads for wear
Recirc/Fresh volumes similar - filter clean.

Adding to this--After ignition switch on [especially now with new MOT regs]- all the correct warning lights come ON! and then extinguish on engine start] ABS/ASR/SRS especially.

Windscreen and side windows [ esp[ coupe] for fine grit scratches

age and condition of battery- right size/state of charge healthy.

front and rear springs for breakage/excessive corrosion [ common at high mileage] -- leaking shocks

Main chassis rails front and back [ in boot] for kinks/ welding repairs signifying a major shunt.


all tyres and wheels to include spare in boot Check its INFLATED !! and its manufacture date --- over 6 years old get rid .
 
Sagging driver's seat.
Drivers Airbag replaced with silver star type.
Delay into reverse.
Clicks when moving away in reverse.
Noisy windsreen wiper
Cruise control works
Drains not blocked
Brake disks/pads for wear
Recirc/Fresh volumes similar - filter clean.

Mine has a slight delay when engaging reverse. It has never bothered me as I have never needed to do J turns in a Bodie and Doyle style and can't even remember the last time I needed to do a 3 point turn.

Should I be worried by this delay? what is it symptom of?

Also re the silver star airbag. Are you suggesting this would be good, as in "The later 1996 version is present", or bad as in "There may have been a deployed airbag situation, hence the need for a replacement"
 
Last edited:
Delay in a gear engaging forward or reverse can? be an indication that the gear box fluid /filter needs changing or there are problems on the way. Its really down the length of the delay- up to a couple of secs is probably OK and to be expected . The silver star business is that the older all black finish airbags had a possible problem with premature inappropriate detonation [ like when just driving along the road :eek:]This was supposed due to corrosion of internal components and tended to occur in climates with high temperature and humidity. They were all supposed to be replaced with the modified silver star bags in a factory recall but some slipped thro the net.
 
Delays into reverse are the first sign of the dreaded 5 speed reverse malfunction - something to do with plastic hydraulic pistons in the box I believe.............
 
I think that's a great list, whether you use it before purchase or as a guide after purchase. Not everybody who buys an old W124 is as knowledgeable as you lot. Just reading this could give someone a bit of confidence who's looking at getting an old Merc for the first time.

When I was looking for a car earlier this year I thought about getting a Rover 75 and their owners forum has a brilliant guide to buying a used one. This kind of knowledge can be invaluable to newbs.
 
double post
 
Last edited:
Cheers chaps,

Agreed that it is quite an exaustive list. Ive tried to cover all generic things to check.

Every check apart from the garage can be done whilst on viewing. Just last week a friend of mine adopted a simialr approach when purchasing a nice Mk2 Golf GTI H reg. A list works wonders.

Its also proof for haggling. I would assume this list will work better for those 124's selling at a strong price. i'm not talking your 950 - 1200 ones. By no means am i saying cars in this range are duff, so that shouldnt be mis understood.

All depends on the induvidual i guess. In my scenario when i actually used this, the 124 i was looking at was going for a strong price. I used it so i didnt get side tracked...

..Have you ever gone to look at a car and forget to check certain bits etc? In the moment of excitment you can easily overlook/forget stuff.

In regards to the garage portion of the list, I organised for reputable garage nearby where the car was being sold so we can undergo these checks. (At my cost obviously).

The owner was aware firstly that i was armed with a list and secondly agreed with him that we'll drive it to the garage i booked the car in for a once over.

Without going into the thick and thin of it, the car was a lemon.
 
Last edited:
good list

well when billy saw my new w124 convertible on saturday im sure he did not really find anything wrong with it other than the headlight wash/wipe not working which im taking off as the car looks better without them

he does know his stuff though
 
G.F.P, a nice set of 17 inch AMG alloys on the cab! :)
 
Extensive list, I suppose one could pick and choose what he wants from the list and make his own tailer made checklist..... Depending on what concerns him most or what the value of the purchase is....
 
Extensive list, I suppose one could pick and choose what he wants from the list and make his own tailer made checklist..... Depending on what concerns him most or what the value of the purchase is....


yep thats basically it! :thumb:
 
I checked for the deal breakers- bad rust, gearbox, engine oil/water etc and accepted I was going to need to splash the cash a bit to get it how I wanted it. Bought my 250d for £750, spent £600 or so getting it tip top. Still a lovely car for the money and its been 100% reliable.
 
hey good guide in fact xcellenta my w124 is a minta as we have had it frm new ! yes new she still looks good for her age but few scratches here and there which are gonna get sorted this summer as she is gettin a full restoration by ourselves at work !
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom