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Air/fuel starvation? Part throttle power loss E55 AMG

V8_Rumble

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Nov 15, 2012
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15
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E55 AMG
Hi all,

I've returned to AMG ownership after some years (sorry, I know there's no excuse!) and have got a 2001 W210 E55 AMG.

It was running as smoothly as it should at first, if a little down on power. However, after a couple of weeks it started becoming jerky on mid throttle openings, followed by uncertain/rough gear changes. This problem got worse and the engine management light appeared. The part load throttle opening jerkiness got worse to the point where the power was either on or off: only gentle throttle use or pedal to the metal would work.

The 'box had signs of an oil leak so as a precaution I've had the 'box serviced and signed off as solid. The engine diagnostic codes were read and suggested a problem with the MAF sensor (will add the codes to the post later, don't have them to hand).

I've changed the MAF (to a non Bosch part - for now) which seemed to work after I gave the car a good hard run. However, the problem/warning light came back on at the next start up.

A couple of rubber seals and a plastic collar around the MAF were perished/broken respectively so I changed them as a precaution to ensure the parts had a good air tight seal.

Whilst I had my head under the bonnet and the engine running, I noticed this part (see pictures) started clicking in the way a faulty/failed solenoid does, about a minute after start up. I think it's on the air lines into the engine.

Can anyone please tell me what it is and if they feel it may cause the symptoms I've described?

Thank you!
 

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A non Bosch air mass wil cause these issues.

The ticking re-circ unit is normal.
 
Thanks for advice. The original part was causing the same issues. When I changed over to the non OEM the problem was about the same. I would expect some differences from a fresh out of the box MAF, even if non genuine...

Do you know of any other culprits for such symptoms?
 
The non OEM mafs are utter rubbish. They just dont work properly full stop.
 
The part you picture seems to be known by many names on various forums including a purge valve, regeneration fuel valve, fuel pressure regulator valve to name a few - ebay confirms the variations.
Ive got similar symptoms to what you describe on a far more humble clk 320. my purge valve has a habit of making a continuous tappet sound noise. It has been said this can cause lean fueling and hence in my case misfire codes end engine light.
I await delivery of a replacement to see if it cures the problems.
I also replaced the MAF along the way her, plugs, air filter, some leads before investing in Carsoft software to read the diag codes.
Ill post in a couple of days to see if this valve cures my problems, also looking at fuel filter as a source of poor fuelling
good luck
 
Seems you've ticked off a lot more boxes than me. I'll post my fault codes and explanation this evening so you can compare.

Interesting that you mention you changed the MAF and still found the problem persisted. Was it a genuine part you fitted?

I've seen other forums stating that unless it's a genuine part, it will continue to cause problems and this was also in reference to the fuel filter (which will be my next port of call) so you may want to keep this in mind if you replace yours.

The expert above stated the ticking noise from the multi named valve is normal so it'll be interesting to see how you get on. Please post your results and best of luck.
 
Yep genuine Bosch maf after reading all the tales of problems with non genuine parts. When I put the new maf in. The car ran very well for a couple of days before problems returned. I'm sure the car new I was watching it!
I've searched for threads on other sites re my codes and it seems its a bit of a black art to interpret the codes
I agree the valve always will make a noise but mine sometimes makes a very audible tappet sound you hear over the engine inside the car. Don't get me wrong, it's not deafening but very audible above a very quiet engine. When you touch it. You feel strong vibration.
I'm no expert on this and just following what others have said on this part that's worked for them.
Part should be here tomorrow and it looks an easy fit. I'll post as soon as I feel I have a view
 
Here's a list of the Engine ECU fault codes that were recorded:
P2016 Part load fuel trim bank 1: limit
P2085 Part load fuel trim bank 2: limit
P2004 Hot film mass air flow sensor
P2090 Upstream O2 sensor connected wrong (way round) - I'm not sure I believe this is even possible: surely the loom won't be wired long enough to allow such a thing?!

Also as of yesterday, I have the added pleasure of the BAS (brake assist system) and ESP (shared) warning light along with ABS system warning light on!

All help appreciated!
 
I think the fuel trim and MAs codes are down to the pattern MAS.
 
+1

The trim codes are the cheapo MAS.

You need to look at the live data for the llambda sensors when a new MAS is fitted.

OT: I had a customer recently ask for a price on some Lambada sensors. I had to stop myself laughing.
 
Thank you gents. Back to eBay for a proper Bosch air flow sensor then.

Olly: It's a pity you are so far away from me otherwise I would book in with you to get it sorted. Can you recommend anyone local to me in Notts that really know's what they are doing with these motors?

Thanks.
 
Get a mas from euro car parts. Don't bother with eBay. They could be copies.
 
V8_Rumble said:
Thank you gents. Back to eBay for a proper Bosch air flow sensor then.

Olly: It's a pity you are so far away from me otherwise I would book in with you to get it sorted. Can you recommend anyone local to me in Notts that really know's what they are doing with these motors?

Thanks.

I don't know anyone. Do a search on here.
 
Thank you. Will post back and let you know how I get on.
 
You can't be that far away from Mercland (Jaymanek here) who are in Nuneaton.
 
Hi all,
Sorry for the late reply, not had chance to log back in.
Replaced the MAF with a genuine Bosch part. After the 2nd time I started the car the engine warning light went out.
No longer cutting out on me, throttle response smooth throughout pedal travel, power restored, seems back to normal.
Only thing I've noticed it that on a couple of occasions it doesn't seem to have kicked down properly... Not sure if this is because of the revs/speed at the time or that it is due a service in 3.5K
Thank you for your pointers... Now off to report the latest problem with what appears to be a collapsed wheel bearing!
 

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