• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

aircon expert needed

Lets get some parts Identified for you.

60 - Low Pressure Suction Line - (Should be cold and sweaty)
100 - High Pressure Discharge Line - (Should be hot)
150 - Liquid Line - (Should be warm or ambient)
170 - High Side access port
30 - Low side access port
350 - High Pressure Switch

Can not see any Low Pressure switch or an additional HP switch as you previously described.

Try one thing for me. With car stationary, sit in vehicle with AC on coldest setting, medium fan speed and re-circ damper closed.

Run the engine and take the revs up to about 1,800 RPM and hold it there for a minuite or two.

Does the air start coming trough cold????
 
thanks, visited my guy who does most of the work on my car , he has a crompton aircon machine , when i told him the story he said sounds like low gas and checked on air filter and stated there 0.95kg gas , pretty sure kf guy only put in 0.5kg! any way he topped up to 0.95 and thought it still not working to full efficiency , he believes it may be the hp sensor ( 350 ) which was what i had got to ! Today it seems to be a whole lot better, definately not blowing warm but of course it isnt as hot outside. My guy suggested if i get the switch he will de - gas ,change the switch and re - gass ! so will have to see how it goes over the next few days ! watch this space!!!!

'edit' btw ,he did exactly as you suggested and ran engine at 1500rpm and the aircon was starting to kick in again!
 
Last edited:
This is a simple case if your system being 'short of gas'.

You have a leak which has depleted the charge in the system to a point where your system isn't working properly anymore.

Have the refrigerant recovered and the system pressure tested. 'No Flouro dye'

I am 99.99% sure the HP switch is fine. Don't waste money on that.

Get your leak identified, fixed and the system evacuated & recharged.
 
Sorry , dont think its a leak as when was last checked it had exactly the same amount in that the kf guy put in , albeit not enough! For the last few days as its been hot again it was very bad in traffic , actually blowing out hot air. So today I removed wipers inc motor and windscreen panel to access the heater control valve and lo and behold , the pipes coming out of the valve are hot , even tho the ac is set to min temp ! So it looks like you were right after all Olly , seems my valve has seized in the open position, not as i understand it the common failure mode but !!!!!:eek:
 
Sorry , dont think its a leak as when was last checked it had exactly the same amount in that the kf guy put in , albeit not enough! For the last few days as its been hot again it was very bad in traffic , actually blowing out hot air. So today I removed wipers inc motor and windscreen panel to access the heater control valve and lo and behold , the pipes coming out of the valve are hot , even tho the ac is set to min temp ! So it looks like you were right after all Olly , seems my valve has seized in the open position, not as i understand it the common failure mode but !!!!!:eek:

Sound like you may have found a fault but it dosent explain the why the AC only provides cold air with the compressor running at higher speed whilst driving. System SOG would.
 
Understand your thinking , which was why i discounted the valve in the first place ! I am wondering now if it is slightly open , so when at tickover the cooling performance isnt sufficient to overcome the heating effect , but as engine speed increases the cooling overcomes the heating !! Just my guess !
 
Change the valve. It will sort your problem out.

\OPen it up too it will be full of water.
 
Operating normally, the AC system dosnt work like that. YOu should get constant temperature, or near constant temperature, accross the evaporator controlled by the Thermal Expansion Valve. It moniters superheat accross the evap and isnt dependant upon the compressor speed for duty.

If however the system is short of gas for example, or the the comprerssor isnt pumping properly only an increase in duty available (comprsssor speed) wll give proper superheat.
 
Ok , so here's the latest .....

Changed the valve , only £28 so not too bad , and it has stopped blowing hot air . But it still doesnt cool properly at tickover so where from here !! I still wonder about the pressure switch but have discovered that if i press Auto and rest for 10 secs the fan starts up ! not sure what the heck this tells me tho !
 
System is short of gas. Get your leak fixed and the system recharged. IN THAT ORDER!!!!
 
LOL at the Kwik Fit bit. Real refrigeration engineers do not use 'Those Machines' as we understand what is going on in the system. The rig you are talking about is for the Layman but completly useless if you do not understand what the fault is in the first place.

IF and ONLY IF, he has put oil in, (Which I doubt) then he may had lagged up the system with oil. There is NO WAY he took oil out unlsess he split into the system and blew it out with OFN.

I HATE thoses machines and we get so many people in here whom have been to 'Radip Fit' centres and had the AC system totally screwed or contaminated.

Note to everyone. Find your self a Competant refrigeration engineer for your AC servicing. It is a complicated system and your average Tyre Basher or Exhaust Fitter will not have the skills to understand the dynamics what is happening in your system or the control systems behind them.

NEVER tolerate have your system 'Topped Up' .

If it is Short of Gas, have the leak found and repaired. Its that simple, and its a legal requirement.

It does NOT Consume Gas, It does NOT Burn Gas, it does NOT leak or vent gas.

If they tell you it does, then they are mugging you and just setting themselves up for work in the future and more of your hard earned £££'s

(Off SoapBox)

I've been reading this thread with interest even though it is old. You seem to have lots of experiance in airconditioning systems.

Having recently been doing some research i have a question that likely you will be able to answer if you are still active on here.

These automatic machines, as far as i can tell they evac the gas and store it back in the same container to be reused/recycled. Can you tell me what happens if the system is full of air or if somebody has used a topup (equivalent to R134) type gas? Does that just mix in with the proper refridgerant and eventually over time just dilute the gas or contaminate it?
 
I've been reading this thread with interest even though it is old. You seem to have lots of experiance in airconditioning systems.

Having recently been doing some research i have a question that likely you will be able to answer if you are still active on here.

These automatic machines, as far as i can tell they evac the gas and store it back in the same container to be reused/recycled. Can you tell me what happens if the system is full of air or if somebody has used a topup (equivalent to R134) type gas? Does that just mix in with the proper refridgerant and eventually over time just dilute the gas or contaminate it?
I am not the expert you are referring to, but I do have experience on many types, both mobile A/C & fixed industrial type installations such as reefers, and APU's on big truck/trailers & trains as well as private cars.

OK to be specific to your question, the majority of current recycling machines are designed for R134a refrigerants.

These roll around shop machines are akin to plug 'n play, basically de-skilling the evacuation /charging & test operations, and can be used here in the US by non qualified shop staff as long as one senior member of the shop staff is certified to dispense refrigerants. In my business case, I have the required EPA 609 license, so does my head tech, and additionally I have EPA 608 licensure for industrial refrigerants like R22, R411 Puron etc.

Now in a perfect world there would be no DIY'rs dicking about and sloppy techs half arsing /working on A/C systems but rather ONLY qualified people.
BUT we don't live in a perfect world!
So back to your question, YES the recycling machine stores what you extract from a system where it is filtered.
A Snap On filter for a Robinaire machine is about $350 which you replace at least annually.
We have two such machines .Cost was $6500 each.
The machine is also capable of auto discharging air etc called non condensables extracted from a system if someone has really been busy with cans or just downright careless, typically by not evacuating the system.

Now the problems:-
The machines cannot identify rogue refrigerants , nor additives like stop leak sealants found in cans of DIY (instant small amount charges) usually with PAG 100 to be legally sold to non quals . (When in fact many vehicles like MB & Toyotas use PAG 45 oils ).

So consequently in a repair shop you run the very real risk of cross contamination with a customers ' car with charging "bad refrigerants" and he/she pays for that abject carelessness!
So being a reputable shop we have a purity tester that first checks the refrigerant in the vehicle BEFORE its recycled.
Now sealants, a big problem, so we have a tester for that, and if I suspect we have an avid DIY'r who is suspected of charging with 1lb ort big gulp 2 ,5 lbs cans we call him as Mr CanMan has been busy on this 'un, we approach the system with care !
IF these sealant by the way get into the machine it will "down it" with a bill to the shop of about $1000 for a major service and parts replacement. Let alone pumping that $chit into an innocent customers car
In any case an for this reason alone each winter my machines are serviced/certified by a Robinnair tech for $600 each.

New tech stuff .

A new refrigerant is now being used called 1234YF and the recycle machine is about $14,000 to buy and comes with a built in refrigerant identifier and enhancements that the older machines don't have.

Electric run compressors such as found on Hybrids .
The regular R134a machines must NOT be used on these systems.
The PAG oil used in these vehicles is a special and if regular PAG oil is injected with refrigerant into an electric driven compressor it will short it out, and you will get the big bloody triangle and a bill for about $5000.
So don't let unqualified dickheads dickey with it !
Tuercas Viejas
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom