antifrezze change on 190e
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What Will says .
However , if it comes in 4L bottles ( a lot of antifreeze does ) , then 4L will be close enough . The marginally greater dilution means you will not be protected to quite the same temperature , but it will still be safe well below any temperatures likely to happen in this country .
However , if it comes in 4L bottles ( a lot of antifreeze does ) , then 4L will be close enough . The marginally greater dilution means you will not be protected to quite the same temperature , but it will still be safe well below any temperatures likely to happen in this country .
will where did you say the drain plug is for the block on the left side under manifold or on the rite under the inlet manifold?
lupi
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hi guys,
i am writting this post,for the sake of tony.
To flush the radiator and engine block, you only have to fill up the system
from the expansion tank and run the engine for some minutes,I say about 10 mins.
(However you can read instructions on the flushing thin which you buy) empty again
refill again and run engine again for so many times until you have a clean drain.
If you are doing this job as a regular service,you only need to watch for any visible
damage to hose pipes,radiator,thermostat housing.
There is no need to remove anything else, unless you are going to restore
the car !! and regarding the drain block plug, be aware because it might be so
much corroded from the inside ( where it is not visible) it might break off while
undoing it and then to replace it may be a hell of a job.
i am writting this post,for the sake of tony.
To flush the radiator and engine block, you only have to fill up the system
from the expansion tank and run the engine for some minutes,I say about 10 mins.
(However you can read instructions on the flushing thin which you buy) empty again
refill again and run engine again for so many times until you have a clean drain.
If you are doing this job as a regular service,you only need to watch for any visible
damage to hose pipes,radiator,thermostat housing.
There is no need to remove anything else, unless you are going to restore
the car !! and regarding the drain block plug, be aware because it might be so
much corroded from the inside ( where it is not visible) it might break off while
undoing it and then to replace it may be a hell of a job.
Last edited:
lupi
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- W124 200D,W211 320 CDI SPORT, Aston Martin Vanquish S,Land Rover Discovery, BMW E32 750i.
If you do not remove the drain plug at the block, as a common sense, read your
car`s owner`s manual ( or Haynes as already suggested by Pontoneer) and check for the correct amount of coolant to fill up, obviously, if for example it holds 8.50 lts.
the you should consider to put in about 4.25lts. of undiluted coolant, i.e. dont mix it
50-50 before filling up, but make sure that all 4.25 lts of undilluted are in the system,
then simple add distilled water to the correct level, when you start up the engine,this
will surely get mixed up with the water which is left in the undrained engine block.
car`s owner`s manual ( or Haynes as already suggested by Pontoneer) and check for the correct amount of coolant to fill up, obviously, if for example it holds 8.50 lts.
the you should consider to put in about 4.25lts. of undiluted coolant, i.e. dont mix it
50-50 before filling up, but make sure that all 4.25 lts of undilluted are in the system,
then simple add distilled water to the correct level, when you start up the engine,this
will surely get mixed up with the water which is left in the undrained engine block.
Scott_F
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If the car is 20 years old and the coolant has never been replaced then I would want to remove the radiator and examine its condition very closely.
I normally just disconnect the hoses and flush the radiator through in situ . You can still carry out a visual inspection of both sides , top and bottom without going to the trouble of removing it . If the radiator looks clean , rust free and is not leaking then probably wisest not to disturb it . " If it ain't broke , don't fix it " .
Far more likely , if the car is automatic , is that the ATF cooling pipes ( the solid metal ones ) which run from the bottom can be badly corroded and may need replacement .
Far more likely , if the car is automatic , is that the ATF cooling pipes ( the solid metal ones ) which run from the bottom can be badly corroded and may need replacement .
It's under the exhaust manifold, on the block - as said already in the first reply on this thread
will if i was to take the drain plug out from block do i need to replace any washers wen it goes back in.
