big jerk when selecting D at cold start

[optimusprime]

Alex please explain how you go about checking you atf level on the transmission? .

 

[Alexetto72]

Alex please explain how you go about checking you atf level on the transmission? .

Hi optimusprime
I checked level of ATF at dealer with an oem dipstick
When I just bought the car I discovered this problem so I flushed trans and tc using 7litres of Fuchs 4134 and filter
It’s not too cold where I live and every morning I have to let engine heat up until 60degree celceus to avoid chocking trans
Before I had a 2010 c220cdi (722.646 trans too) and had exact same problem. That ended suddenly one day by excessive sleeping
When we removed valve body my mechanic discovered something broken. And burned ATF. I changed trans and tc with a used one and sold the car

 

[Alexetto72]

Hi optimusprime
I checked level of ATF at dealer with an oem dipstick
When I just bought the car I discovered this problem so I flushed trans and tc using 7litres of Fuchs 4134 and filter
It’s not too cold where I live and every morning I have to let engine heat up until 60degree celceus to avoid chocking trans
Before I had a 2010 c220cdi (722.646 trans too) and had exact same problem. That ended suddenly one day by excessive sleeping
When we removed valve body my mechanic discovered something broken. And burned ATF. I changed trans and tc with a used one and sold the car

Hi optimusprime
I checked level of ATF at dealer with an oem dipstick
When I just bought the car I discovered this problem so I flushed trans and tc using 7litres of Fuchs 4134 and filter
It’s not too cold where I live and every morning I have to let engine heat up until 60degree celceus to avoid chocking trans
Before I had a 2010 c220cdi (722.646 trans too) and had exact same problem. That ended suddenly one day by excessive sleeping
When we removed valve body my mechanic discovered something broken. And burned ATF. I changed trans and tc with a used one and sold the car

Here’s a list of parts I’m planning to change next month
By order

-1402770435 tcc solenoid​

- Sonnax 68942-23K TCC Damper Valve Sleeve Kit 722.6​

-Clutch Release Kit
MB-CP-10KA
Or -Cultch Release Kit
MB-CP-11KA ( if my a2122500202 torque corverter use 3 friction plates)

 

[Alexetto72]

Problem solved
After changing coolant radiator I lost some of the box oil. then a mechanic put the gauge on and it came out dry. he didn’t have the right oil and told me to add 2 liters and top up. I added 2 liters of Fuchs 4134 and a few days after the box started to leak from the overflow. and strangely no longer shocked at cold start at the passage of D or R
I removed 1liter of oil and level is 2 to 3 cm above the max in dipstick
Now gearbox is smooth and I can drive as soon as I start engine
Haha

 

[Justintyme]

Problem solved
After changing coolant radiator I lost some of the box oil. then a mechanic put the gauge on and it came out dry. he didn’t have the right oil and told me to add 2 liters and top up. I added 2 liters of Fuchs 4134 and a few days after the box started to leak from the overflow. and strangely no longer shocked at cold start at the passage of D or R
I removed 1liter of oil and level is 2 to 3 cm above the max in dipstick
Now gearbox is smooth and I can drive as soon as I start engine
Haha

For the 722.6 transmission, the car has to 100% level. The fluid in the trans has to be at 80c exactly. 2-3 cms abve the correct level is way too high. 2-3 cms is about one and a half inches, so way over the mark. The engine temp is irrelevant, but it will be at normal or near enough to it by the time the trans temp is up to 80c. And when checking the level, the engine has to be running, and the trans in "P", with hand brake fully on. Also, best way to check the fluid temp is by using a scanner, which checks the actual fluid ..using an infra red temperature gun will always give a reading slightly lower than the internal reading, because of the metal body of the sump.

 

[slipons]

Usually when you first start the car it will run at fast idle (maybe 2000RPM) for the first 20 to 30 seconds, before returning to normal idle speed. If you throw the car in gear at this speed, it will try to lunge forward. I always wait until the idle speed is normal before selecting drive.

 

[Alexetto72]

Usually when you first start the car it will run at fast idle (maybe 2000RPM) for the first 20 to 30 seconds, before returning to normal idle speed. If you throw the car in gear at this speed, it will try to lunge forward. I always wait until the idle speed is normal before selecting drive.

I’ve a diesel engine (om651) and it runs at about 800RPM at cold start so it’s not related
I just wanted to share my experience with the fact that after adding more gear oil than needed it solved my shaking problem on the first cold gear shift
the nearest garage which has a box gauge is 100km away. I would do the correct level again and see

 

[E55BOF]

For the 722.6 transmission, the car has to 100% level. The fluid in the trans has to be at 80c exactly. 2-3 cms abve the correct level is way too high. 2-3 cms is about one and a half inches, so way over the mark. The engine temp is irrelevant, but it will be at normal or near enough to it by the time the trans temp is up to 80c. And when checking the level, the engine has to be running, and the trans in "P", with hand brake fully on. Also, best way to check the fluid temp is by using a scanner, which checks the actual fluid ..using an infra red temperature gun will always give a reading slightly lower than the internal reading, because of the metal body of the sump.

I think that in the real world, there's a lot of BS there. Just take the car for a ten-mile run; that will get the temperature up to near enough to normal. There's also a tolerance built in to the specified level; other than in a workshop, if there, it's highly unlikely a car is going to be dead level. I get why the pros do it by the book, because that's the procedure MB specifies, but this is a piece of machinery, not brain surgery, we're talking about.

I’ve a diesel engine (om651) and it runs at about 800RPM at cold start so it’s not related
I just wanted to share my experience with the fact that after adding more gear oil than needed it solved my shaking problem on the first cold gear shift
the nearest garage which has a box gauge is 100km away. I would do the correct level again and see

The gearbox was underfilled, then overfilled, beyond tolerance; now it's neither, and the problem is solved. No surprise there...

 

[GeeJayW]

I’ve a diesel engine (om651) and it runs at about 800RPM at cold start so it’s not related
I just wanted to share my experience with the fact that after adding more gear oil than needed it solved my shaking problem on the first cold gear shift
the nearest garage which has a box gauge is 100km away. I would do the correct level again and see

Ours does this in the winter months if D is selected pretty much immediately after start up. Allow the engine to idle for 10-seconds or so before engaging D and it’s fine.

 

[BPD07]

Had something similar, if I selected D before the revs dropped down to idle it would sometimes stall, otherwise it was a solid engagement. My Indy had it for a day and said it was probably the torque converter starting to go. Given this was a 114k miles on an AMG that had never been spared the horses (when warm) it seemed quite likely. No warning lights were showing either.

 

[Alexetto72]

I think that in the real world, there's a lot of BS there. Just take the car for a ten-mile run; that will get the temperature up to near enough to normal. There's also a tolerance built in to the specified level; other than in a workshop, if there, it's highly unlikely a car is going to be dead level. I get why the pros do it by the book, because that's the procedure MB specifies, but this is a piece of machinery, not brain surgery, we're talking about.

The gearbox was underfilled, then overfilled, beyond tolerance; now it's neither, and the problem is solved. No surprise there...

Gearbox wasn’t undefilled. I flushed it in a Mercedes’ center when I just bought the car and discovered this problem. And when I overfilled it problem disappeared

 

[E55BOF]

Gearbox wasn’t undefilled. I flushed it in a Mercedes’ center when I just bought the car and discovered this problem. And when I overfilled it problem disappeared

Sounds as though it was from post 24.

 

[Justintyme]

I think that in the real world, there's a lot of BS there. Just take the car for a ten-mile run; that will get the temperature up to near enough to normal. There's also a tolerance built in to the specified level; other than in a workshop, if there, it's highly unlikely a car is going to be dead level. I get why the pros do it by the book, because that's the procedure MB specifies, but this is a piece of machinery, not brain surgery, we're talking about.

The gearbox was underfilled, then overfilled, beyond tolerance; now it's neither, and the problem is solved. No surprise there...

Yes underfilled, then over filled, which caused it to pump out the excess fluid, and now its fine.... You are right about the tolerances being built in.. Min to Max , usually. But if that was my car, I'd have it on a level lift and check it out to make sure its at factory specs, as it was designed to be. Same goes for the engine oil ( and all other fluids too.) Personally, any time that I've tried to second-guess or tried to "improve" on the original design specs it has not ended well.....so now I stick rigidly to the manufacturers instructions.