Brakes. I broke them.

[Robby]

Today I was changing my brake fluid.
I comitted the first cardinal sin by using a one man brake bleeding kit, and having the resevoir on it lower than the car brake fluid resevoir. In the morning I'll be getting some new clear plastic pipe, connecting it up to my trusty plastic squeezy bottle, and bleeding it properly. System is now full of air on at least one caliper.

Second cardinal sin. I sheared a bleed nipple on the front passenger side caliper, pretty much flush with the caliper face. How do I get the stub out?

A couple of other annoying bits. Those alloys weigh lots, and locking wheel nuts are more trouble than they're worth.

 

[miro]

Today I was changing my brake fluid.
I comitted the first cardinal sin by using a one man brake bleeding kit, and having the resevoir on it lower than the car brake fluid resevoir. In the morning I'll be getting some new clear plastic pipe, connecting it up to my trusty plastic squeezy bottle, and bleeding it properly. System is now full of air on at least one caliper.

Second cardinal sin. I sheared a bleed nipple on the front passenger side caliper, pretty much flush with the caliper face. How do I get the stub out?

A couple of other annoying bits. Those alloys weigh lots, and locking wheel nuts are more trouble than they're worth.

Sounds like when you change your brakes, you really change them.

 

[Ian B Walker]

Robby, sorry to hear that you sheared off a brake nipple. Here is something that may just get you out of trouble.

Remove the caliper and drill into the sheared off nipple REMEMBERING to use a drill 2/3 rds the diameter of the thread on the nipple. Knock the tang of a file into the hole and use an adjustable spanner to remove the offending thread. Warning though, do not drill too deep.

 

[joe]

Hi Robby,
I agree with Ian except swop tang of file for a Stud Extractor (Easy Out) available from most Auto D.I.Y Outlets.

I have observed files shatter under turning/twisting forces.

Good Luck with it.

Joe

 

[guydewdney]

if you are to buy an easy out - there are two types on the market - slow and fast spiral - fast spiral work much better (fast is like a drills twist, slow is like a thread on a bolt)

the problem with easy outs on small bolts is they push outwards as well as twist - the tang of a file does work quite nicely - and tangs are often not as hardened as the face...

YMMV (quite a lot)

Alternativly - leave as is and replace the hose with a banjo bolt ended pipe and put in a bleed nipple banjo bolt - part number 536569 from www.mandp.co.uk or for a picture go to http://www.earls.co.uk/bike/index.html go to online cat / brake hose and fittings then page 5 of the pdf

 

[Robby]

My word its hot outside.

Brakes are now largely done. Rear pads will be done when I grab some new pins for them.
System was full of air, which is all out now. One man bleeding kits are crap.

The bleed nipple had a tiny but sticking out, and I managed to get it out with WD40 and knocking on progressively smaller sockets until I got some purchase on it. Luckily shearing it yesterday "cracked" the bolt a bit so it wasn't fully siezed.

Now for my new brakes test drive. A few miles of barely biting.

To run in car brakes do you brakes hard or soft?

 

[fuzzer]

all this hardly seems worth it


im sure my local dealer did my C240 for about £25 inc the fluid

 

[bazza]

Problem is, that some main dealers don't like working on older cars, too much thinking or manual labour on a rusted nut involved and they build this into the quoted price.
My local dealer started quoting me £300 for tracking in case they had rusted bolts.
When I lowered the car, there was not 1 rusted bolt, they all came out as if they had only been put in the previous week.
Quality components and materials really do make a difference


Bazza

 

[uumode]

My word its hot outside.

To run in car brakes do you brakes hard or soft?

I do soft,
as I 'believe' it will gradually introduce the pad surface to the disc surface.. particularly with more worn 'grooved' discs

 

[uumode]

My local dealer started quoting me £300 for tracking in case they had rusted bolts.
Bazza

£300 for tracking!!

Quality components and materials really do make a difference
Bazza

190 and it's contemporary E better built IMHO.

Unfortunately they omitted stainless steel bolts on my exhaust, and it's all rusted up with some other bits such as this bottom panel and bolts
4.5 years old E Class.

 

[lookskyward1]

Bed the brakes in gently.

Do they still feel spongy? If so you are going to have to bleed the system again. Do the (rear) wheel furthest away from the master cylender, then the other rear wheel then the front furthest from the master cylender, finally the nearest. Get your helper to pump the brake pedal in three methodical strokes at a time finishing with the pedal depressed. Make your helper call out the strokes loud and clear! This is when you lock up the bleed nipple.

This should ensure no air in the system at all. :bannana:

 

[bazza]

Yea quoted £300 for tracking on my 190E, got it done for £96, cheap at half the price

lookskyward, spotted your car in Sainsbury's the other day. Looks good, could do with a bit more of a rumble from the exhaust tho


Bazza