I tried diagnosing the ECU again. It had recorded that the petrol pump relay had been removed and also gave code 42. The CAN communications from the ISC module may be faulty as all the other options, ASR, EA, CC, OBDII module, that it mentioned do not exist in this car.
Can anyone explain what this could mean...please?!
Can anyone explain what this could mean...please?!
I cleared code 42, reset the ECU, checked there were no codes and tried to start the car. Code 42 reappeared but again, no problems from the MAF.
So a new throttle body could cost £250 plus and the car's worth...£250.
Maybe I can take the idle control off and see what's happening. Maybe.
So a new throttle body could cost £250 plus and the car's worth...£250.
Maybe I can take the idle control off and see what's happening. Maybe.
Ignore that picture in post #20, I forgot yours is a 1995, sorry about that.
That relay with the 15 amp fuse in your picture, I forget what it’s called now, it’s to do with voltage I think, it can be opened up and check for broken solder joints.
Dec
Edit; over voltage relay is what its called, not sure what part it might play in a non starting situation like yours.
That relay with the 15 amp fuse in your picture, I forget what it’s called now, it’s to do with voltage I think, it can be opened up and check for broken solder joints.
Dec
Edit; over voltage relay is what its called, not sure what part it might play in a non starting situation like yours.
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I had a close look at the OVP unit today. I know one of its 3 internal relays correctly produces 12V to pin 2 of the 38-pin diag socket. The circuit that operates that relay also operates the second internal relay. That outputs 12V on OVP pin 6. Internal relay 3 connects to the rear brake switch. I see that it's often called an ABS protection relay so maybe that's what it also does here and why people associate it with the ABS light staying on.
The OVP unit appears to be operating correctly, but for the sake of completeness I will remove its can and check.
The OVP unit appears to be operating correctly, but for the sake of completeness I will remove its can and check.
What a difference 12V makes!
The problem was with the immobilizer. The cause was 12V not getting across a broken wire wrapped in the harness. Soldered...problem gone.
I've learned quite a bit about the inanimate parts that make this car function and that gives me confidence for the future.
Many thanks to all the members who have kept me going though this nightmare, as I kept changing direction from desperation!
The problem was with the immobilizer. The cause was 12V not getting across a broken wire wrapped in the harness. Soldered...problem gone.
I've learned quite a bit about the inanimate parts that make this car function and that gives me confidence for the future.
Many thanks to all the members who have kept me going though this nightmare, as I kept changing direction from desperation!
Dec. Sorry about this apparently late response. I'd written it as an email and it was saved in drafts by an oversight!
I found the cause of the problem when looking into why the interior lights didn't work properly. I'd virtually given up on the immobilizer/alarm.
The front and back interior lights' on/off switches worked fine but, since the non-starting began, I'd only once seen the front light coming on slowly when the driver's door was opened.
In short, the same fuse feeds the interior light dimming, the door switches and the immobilizer.
The fuse tested OK. Digging around in the wires beneath the under-bonnet fuse holders there was a wrapped joint with wires leading to that fuse. They pulled out when tugged so they could have been making contact intermittently.
As I said, I soldered them back up and both problems had gone!
What I'd have done if the problem had happened away from home I can't imagine.
I'd never had a car fail completely on me before but I reckon now I have been over every square inch in the hunt for problem solutions over the years there should be nothing left to worry me!
I found the cause of the problem when looking into why the interior lights didn't work properly. I'd virtually given up on the immobilizer/alarm.
The front and back interior lights' on/off switches worked fine but, since the non-starting began, I'd only once seen the front light coming on slowly when the driver's door was opened.
In short, the same fuse feeds the interior light dimming, the door switches and the immobilizer.
The fuse tested OK. Digging around in the wires beneath the under-bonnet fuse holders there was a wrapped joint with wires leading to that fuse. They pulled out when tugged so they could have been making contact intermittently.
As I said, I soldered them back up and both problems had gone!
What I'd have done if the problem had happened away from home I can't imagine.
I'd never had a car fail completely on me before but I reckon now I have been over every square inch in the hunt for problem solutions over the years there should be nothing left to worry me!
