CLK rear wheel arches rust

[Jrattan]

Yep correct, the lever on the boot lid sticks so i am unable to release the handle to open the boot

Ah glad it's not the auto boot mechanism as that gear cog system can cost few K to repair. I'd try a bit of wd40 in the first instance?

 

[clk320x]

Ah glad it's not the auto boot mechanism as that gear cog system can cost few K to repair. I'd try a bit of wd40 in the first instance?

Yeh I’d say PTFE Dry lubricant

 

[Codger49]

The boot lid latch on W209s often clogs up with road dirt being sucked up and lack of regular cleaning/lubrication.

Cleaned my last jammed latch with penetrating oil, stiff brush and cocktail sticks.

 

[ash1212002]

Tried wd40 and plenty of it made no difference

 

[clk320x]

Tried wd40 and plenty of it made no difference

Does it open from the key fob?

 

[Jrattan]

Could try taking the mechanism apart and cleaning it... maybe use a YouTube video as a guide....

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[ash1212002]

Does it open from the key fob?

Yep opens from the fob, but only releases the catch the boot doesn't open fully unless i lift it open, previous clk i had the boot would fully open when opening via the fob or the switch in the car

 

[ash1212002]

Could try taking the mechanism apart and cleaning it... maybe use a YouTube video as a guide....

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As a last resort will give this a go bit of a tedious job to get to the lock

 

[clk320x]

Yep opens from the fob, but only releases the catch the boot doesn't open fully unless i lift it open, previous clk i had the boot would fully open when opening via the fob or the switch in the car

Oh I know what you mean...

You need to adjust the springs inside the boot, move them by one hole.

 

[ash1212002]

Oh I know what you mean...

You need to adjust the springs inside the boot, move them by one hole.

Great, but i suspect it could caused by the dodgy boot lid latch? As its catching

 

[ash1212002]

I’m planning to do the arches in a few weeks’ time, so have purchased the POR15 kit to do the job, which includes, silver paint, marine clean and metal ready


I have a detail sander and also an angle grinder, I think the angle grinder will make quick work in removing the rust and provide a good clean surface to apply the POR15, however what I do not want is to cut into the metal!


1. I have found the following flap discs which do you recommend?


https://www.screwfix.com/p/non-wove...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CO2oj5W5ltsCFYkr4AodS_8D1A

or

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLrH4Zi5ltsCFYwK4AodZngH3A


2. Do I sand down the complete inner lip arch? Or just the areas where there is rust present?

3. I intend to remove the arch liners and do a thorough job, what would you recommend I seal the inside of the lip with? Waxoyl?

4. Other than POR15, any other products I should use in conjunction with POR15?

5. I’m struggling to find the black mini beading without the ‘teeth’ can anyone advise where I can get this from?


Other than the above, any other guidance to do the job would be appreciated

 

[wu56Shoozz]

Dinitrol is the way to go, far better than Waxoyl. Its self healing - i.e you can cut it and it heals itself wherby Wayoxl doesn't it just sets. It has a converter sold separately that is an epoxy that seals the bare metal/contaminated metal thus stopping it from restarting and can be painted over. Have a look at Dinitrol Products..Clean the rusted areas back to bare metal and treat for rust then start to build back up.

1/De rust using a flapper wheel (preferred)

2/ Treat for rust - Jenolite the clean area until cloudy grey, then Dinitrol Converter

3/ Your choice here - Zinc Prime (high content - Bilt Hamber products OR Straight to POR15

4/ Start rubbing down process and building back up using "Highbuild Primers" as its a light colour use Light coloured primers only..

5/ TAKE YOUR TIME - DO NOT RUSH. RUSH JOB =BAD JOB.

Good Luck - you know where we are if you need help - make use of your camera too if you need to ask questions..

 

[ash1212002]

Which flapper wheel would you recommend I purchase of the two I have mentioned? or would you recommend something else?

I have Krust which I believe is similar to Jenolite is this ok?, however I have read the following regarding the use of por15....

'Use of “rust converter” products is NOT recommended as they may affect bonding of POR 15 to metal. POR-15 likes to adhere to surfaces with “tooth” rather than smooth, glossy surfaces.

Also por15 metal prep also etch primes the clean surface and leaves a Zinc Phosphate coating - so is bilt hamber necessary?

Using a highbuild primer is this necessary or shall I just paint with POR15 - what are the advantages of using a highbuild primer first? and por15 etch primes the surface...

 

[wu56Shoozz]

Which flapper wheel would you recommend I purchase of the two I have mentioned? or would you recommend something else?

This One: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-zirconium-flap-disc-115mm-80-grit/7448g

I have Krust which I believe is similar to Jenolite is this ok?, however I have read the following regarding the use of por15....

This One: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00YMWUSI6/?tag=amazon0e9db-21

Followed by: Dinitrol RC900 Rust Converter Prevention Proofing Primer 400ml Aerosol | eBay
It seals out the oxygen, preventing it from starting again and is paintable....

I prefer this to POR15 with great results:

Epoxy Paint, Mastic Anti Rust Paint For Cars & Anticorrosion UK

'Use of “rust converter” products is NOT recommended as they may affect bonding of POR 15 to metal. POR-15 likes to adhere to surfaces with “tooth” rather than smooth, glossy surfaces.

Also por15 metal prep also etch primes the clean surface and leaves a Zinc Phosphate coating - so is bilt hamber necessary? As I said your choice - Its not necessary, but remember what it is your trying to stop...

Using a highbuild primer is this necessary or shall I just paint with POR15 - what are the advantages of using a highbuild primer first? and por15 etch primes the surface...

Again, your choice, high build is an over coat to POR15 and therefore easy to rub down and form, POR on the other hand your attacking your rurst prevention reducing it protectiveness...

 

[KillerHERTZ]

As I mentioned before, I wouldnt bother with sandpaper, you will not remove all the rust so it will return, you need to get an angle grinder to take it back to bare metal. otherwise 4-5months from now it will be coming through once again.

 

[wu56Shoozz]

Incorrect: A grinder "Cuts" the Metal whereby the 80 grit sands the metal. One can damage the metal (cuts/gouges) whereby the the other lightly removes the surface leaving a better finish to work from.. I'd stick with the 80 Grit flapper wheel, coarse enough to remove the surface without taking away to much metal..

 

[clk320x]

Incorrect: A grinder "Cuts" the Metal whereby the 80 grit sands the metal. One can damage the metal (cuts/gouges) whereby the the other lightly removes the surface leaving a better finish to work from.. I'd stick with the 80 Grit flapper wheel, coarse enough to remove the surface without taking away to much metal..

the professional bodyshop who did mine used a belt sander, followed by some kind of sealant on the inner lip and the rust has not returned even after many thousands of miles on gritted roads.

 

[KillerHERTZ]

Incorrect: A grinder "Cuts" the Metal whereby the 80 grit sands the metal. One can damage the metal (cuts/gouges) whereby the the other lightly removes the surface leaving a better finish to work from.. I'd stick with the 80 Grit flapper wheel, coarse enough to remove the surface without taking away to much metal..

I used a brass wire attachment, doesn't leave any holes or gouges.

 

[ash1212002]

This is how I intended to do the job

Remove wheel arch and clean surrounding area

Use flap disc to remove rust on the arches

Use POR15 metal prep to clean and degrease surface

Use POR15 metal ready to neutralise any rust, and etch any clean bare metal

User POR15 Silver paint to paint the arch visible side

Upon cleaning the inner section of the wing, coat the inside with Dinitrol underbody seal


Slightly confused as to where I apply the Dinitrol primer you have mentioned as I was referring to the using the underbody seal product for the inner part of the wing where the arch liner fits into

Have a few questions, which I require clarification on….

Would you recommended that I do the complete arch? or only the areas where rust is present?

POR15 recommends not to use any rust converters, If i were to use Krust or Jenolite would this do more harm than good?

Regarding the flap disc, would it be safer to use a 120 grit disc?, as the last thing I want is to risk cutting into the metal

Points ¾ - please clarify if i have understood correctly - if I add this step in do I apply a zinc prime product followed by using a highbuild primer then rub down, build up and rub down and then apply POR15 silver paint?

Finally i would prefer to go down the painting route rather than spraying, would this be possible if I just spray the aerosols into a canister and use a paint brush to apply?

 

[wu56Shoozz]

This is how I intended to do the job

Remove wheel arch and clean surrounding area

Use flap disc to remove rust on the arches Agreed

Use POR15 metal prep to clean and degrease surface - Agreed

Use POR15 metal ready to neutralise any rust, and etch any clean bare metal - Your Choice

User POR15 Silver paint to paint the arch visible side - Your Choice

Upon cleaning the inner section of the wing, coat the inside with Dinitrol underbody seal Agreed


Slightly confused as to where I apply the Dinitrol primer you have mentioned as I was referring to the using the underbody seal product for the inner part of the wing where the arch liner fits into The Primer can be sprayed or painted on to thee affected area then left to set/cure.

Have a few questions, which I require clarification on….

Would you recommended that I do the complete arch? or only the areas where rust is present? Depends on where it is on the arch you always take it to the nearest swageline where possible to hide the repair..

POR15 recommends not to use any rust converters, If i were to use Krust or Jenolite would this do more harm than good? Nope! Fire away.. remember you want as much protection as possible..

Regarding the flap disc, would it be safer to use a 120 grit disc?, as the last thing I want is to risk cutting into the metal Nope, most body shops recommend 80 grit to open it up and cleanse the area..

Points ¾ - please clarify if i have understood correctly - if I add this step in do I apply a zinc prime product followed by using a highbuild primer then rub down Yes , OR build up and rub down and then apply POR15 silver paint? Either or but not both. Get a touch up can of matching paint to finish off, your nearly there at this stage..

Finally i would prefer to go down the painting route rather than spraying, would this be possible if I just spray the aerosols into a canister and use a paint brush to apply?

At what point are we talking?? To finish , no .. to treat etc yes..