CLK55 W208 Breather Pipes

[Bazfaldo]

Hi all,

New to this forum so hi all , I have a 2000 CLK55 AMG W208 Brilliant silver. Just spent the weekend getting round to the job of replacing the sealant on the two breather chambers on top of valve covers. Oil was starting to weep down the covers and onto exhaust manifolds Not bad but not good either, valve cover gaskets look fine. Been a job wanting to do for a while so went to MB and got the official black sealant and bought a Draper precision torque wrench. Took my time and cleaned the whole engine and all the breather chambers. Re-sealed and a job well done I hope. looks good.

However as usual the two passenger side breather tubes were really hard and cracked/split when removing from the alloy barbs on the covers. No worries just bought the replacements BUT just need to know how to remove from the end going into the MAF housing. Its pretty tight back there with the fuel rail ETC in the way. Any do's and don'ts? on this. I know its only pulling a few old crusty hardened pipes off but if its as hard as removing from the breather chambers there is no room to get hand in. So am I missing something or does the MAF have to come out?. Only reason i ask is I don't was to upset the MAF. Its been fine so far no issues. Previous owner replaced a while back.

Any hints tips from anyone would be great before I go pulling at the tubes and and possibly upset the MAF, its pretty tight back there.

Cheers

Barry

 

[Bazfaldo]

I have some pictures to add but i know the administrators cry if the pics are to big. Let me know how to add in a correct size and will share with you.

 

[andy27168]

Hi,
I have recently done this exact same job on the CLK55 engine in my C43, and both my breather hoses split slightly at the ends where they went on the rocker cover chambers, and as you couldn't see how to remove the hoses, as mine were not to badly damaged I put 2-3 inch lengths of heat shrink sleeve over the ends of the damaged hoses and shrunk them down.
I have new breather hoses to go on mine from my old 43 engine which are in good nic, so I will eventually replace them completely at some point.
Don't be concerned about removing the maf, just make sure its kept clean, though even with it removed it will still be awkward to do the pipes, there also appears to be a plastic "T" piece in the hose towards the back of the engine, so I think I will be replacing the whole lot on mine.
Regarding photos, use a hosting web site such as photo bucket and copy and paste the img code on your post.

 

[Bazfaldo]

Hi Andy,

Many thanks for getting back to me and the info you provided. I will have a go later on today and take my time and see how I get on. I will let you know.

Cheers

Barry

 

[Bazfaldo]

Hi Andy,

Here's the links to the photo's you were after.

bazfaldo's Library | Photobucket

Hope it works. Took a load of before and after cleaning pics. start last photo and work back. Just got back from local MB dealer on the bloody train as I cant drive the car! with nice shiny new breather tubes and replacement coil pack bolts and breather chamber cover screws. also new MAF seal to be on safe side if I have to undo.Cost was £34

Looking at his WIS type MB exploded view thing on the computer there are some really cheap connector plastic barbs that connect two pipes together, he didn't have them in stock so I bet mine break when trying to remove. Only £1.14 each so back on train tomorrow I bet lol. Fingers crossed. The T piece you refereed to looks like a plastic piece of a lot of pipes connect to again not in stock but cheap.

Cheers fella, let you know how it went.

Barry

 

[Bazfaldo]

The first photos show how rotten the oil was around the valve cover and coil packs. All been fully cleaned up now. Also I decided to remove the plastic under tray as that was oil sodden with loads of grit and crap etc. Now fully cleaned like new. Also noticed main fan was the same, had oil crap and grit build up so the fan blades probably not doing an efficient job of cooling, now sorted. Its amazing over time how oil and vapours etc can get everywhere. I used AutoGlym Engine and machine cleaner. Its great no solvents but very very effective. Also use in the kitchen lol to remove oil film vapour build up around extractor fan etc. works a treat.

 

[Bazfaldo]

Hi Andy,

I have done the job, have so much to say and one new part short. It wasn't so bad but need to explain. run out of time tonight. parts in the sink soaking. And yes MAF needs to come off. let you you know tomorrow. I might upload the pics first so if you see blood then you know lol.

 

[Bazfaldo]

Hi All,

New pics added blood and all.

bazfaldo's Library | Photobucket

Didn't realise I need one more MAF seal. Bought one new one today, the top one but not bottom. They were both rank. Very hard and cracked and broke when handling and bending. I followed that pontcho fella MAF guide which was good. But you need to do once to know how it actually comes apart. If I would do again would defo have all the parts. I will write up a guide once all back together again. I need to go to MB again on the train to get the other MAF seal. Also I cleaned up the throttle body butterfly intake whilst all apart.

 

[Bazfaldo]

Hi Andy,

I finally took the car out for a shakedown test and analysis as the weather was good.

Brought the car upto temp as there are loads of dual carriage ways near me.
No cars in front of me, road conditions were very good so gave it full beans in second gear upto road legal speeds.

All i can say is wow. It's a different car. so much more responsive, so much more power/torque and acceleration
the urgency of the beast is just like when i first bought it.

So now I'm wondering what if all jobs helped this, the resealing the breather chambers and replacing all the breather hoses
or replacing all the MAF gaskets and also cleaning the MAF with electric non resisdue cleaner or cleaning out the
throttle body or a combination of all??

I have never seen any dash alarms for anything other than a blown bulb, since replaced.

One last job i did was notcice that the throttle cable that meets the electronic potentiometer was slightly slack by
the air conditioner unit on passeger side in the engine compartment near the bulk head.

I turned it counter clockwise one turn to take out the slack on the plastic screw, But after reading a lot of forum
posts on various MB sites both UK and U.S people state to leave 0.5 or 1mm slack o wondering weather to put back.

I did use the triptronic to use engine braking IE down shift and was very effective although on these cars the semi auto box
is some what very sluggish. Now however it just doesnt seem to have the same engine braking only slightly slower so may just
adjust the cable back to a tiny bit of slack.

Anyhow these are my findings after doing the jobs i listed above. I highly recommend you do these jobs at around 80,000 - 90,000
miles. The car feels brand new and so much more powerful.

I still need to replace the plugs so hopefully more gains. (next month) Car has had a full service though. Shell Helix ultra 5w-40 all original MB parts and filters also replaced Fuel filter and also had the brake fluid replaced. All this done at MB but the price MB charge for plugs (£900) I will do my self as I have already bought the official MB tools. Plug socket, Oil filter socket and 19mm plug puller tool. 16 plugs are £165 genuine MB plugs at dealer.

All the best

Barry

 

[andy27168]

Hi,
Thanks for posting back, pleased its sorted, though having replaced the seals on my MAF elbow before in isolation I found it improved the throttle response and the idling was so so much smoother, so I,m inclined to think its this that has given you your improvement. Spark plugs my recommendation is to get Bosch or NGK, far superior to the Champion plugs which I found in the MB box, and a lot cheaper if you buy from ECP with the forums discount code.

 

[Bazfaldo]

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the info. I did check out the plugs at MB and can confirm they are selling Champion double plats. Not sure what all the fuss is about but at £165 for 16 not sure what to get as original plugs like you said were NKG/Bosch Iridium but they don't sell them any more. I suppose its all sponsorship and best deal at the time etc?

I heard of horror stories of wrong plug length and destroying plugs and pistons.

Why have MB changed the spec from Iridium to double plat and what plugs do you recommend and code number etc??. Also see that MB now promoting that new oil Petronas because of F1 sponsorship as opposed to Mobile 1 way back and then Shell Helix Ultra.

What would be the best plug make and quality at this time and codes etc to order, best place to buy from (ECP?) genuine meant for W208 CLK55?

All the Best

Barry

 

[jaymanek]

I just did mine 2 weeks ago and got Ngk from mercedes... There was a choice of brands wen ordering..