CLS W219 Powered Boot Not Working

[Iceviolet]

Hi,
I'm having a few issues with my powered boot opener/closer, it just stopped working one day last week.
I have done a little fault finding today but to no avail.
I have tested the drive motor and that is working fine when 12v applied to it.
The close button on the boot lid itself is illuminated and when pressed the small motor for the door latch receiver operates and moves into the correct position to accept the latch. But the boot lid does not close, If closed manually when the latch hits the receiver the small motor operates again and pulls the boot lid closed.
I had it on DAS and no fault codes present or stored.

I am thinking possibly the control unit is not working properly, not outputting the voltage to the drive motor???
Any ideas?

Thanks,
Sam

 

[whitenemesis]

Try resetting the operation. Happened occasionally on my 219.

With the boot lid open, close by hand until locked. Then open by using the switch in the driver's door. Keep the switch operated until boot lid fully open (make sure the opening angle limitation is set to Off in the cluster, not all have this option..)

 

[lxi]

had this with mine (different model obviously) - turned out to be a break in one of the wires that are clipped to the hinges. If I tweaked the harness this way and that while holding the button to close, it would operate - from there on just a question of removing the harness wrapping & trying each wire until identified - it was & always had been under tension from manufacture. Soldered in a 3" new wire & all ok

 

[Iceviolet]

I know of the wiring problem from the boot opening and closing, that's what I thought it was initially, I could not see any damage to the wiring and I tried operating the switch whilst moving the wires also. It made no difference.

I will try the reset again, I did try but never checked the cluster and also wasn't aware the button needed to be held down whilst opening. I just pressed the button to open, opened the boot then held the button for 5 seconds.

 

[whitenemesis]

Must start 'normalisation' by closing the boot by hand

 

[Iceviolet]

Tried the normalisation again this morning and still no joy.
I noticed that when I press the button on the boot lid to close it, I can hear a click that sounds to be coming from the control unit so it seems that it is getting the signal. I will plug it into star again today and see if anything has come up from me messing about with it yesterday.
If there was a broken wire I would of thought a fault would show up on star as an electrical fault?

 

[whitenemesis]

Does the driver's door switch do anything?

 

[Iceviolet]

Does the driver's door switch do anything?

Press it to open boot and it pops the boot open but then does not open it with the motor. Press to close when boot is open and it powers the latch but again no drive motor to close boot lid.

 

[Iceviolet]

Stumped with this one again!
I had another go at it today, STAR came up with no fault codes. Switches are operating and reading on STAR, system is normalized and petentiometer reading correct.

I also put a voltmeter on the 2 wires coming from the control unit to the motor and when I press the boot switch to close, relays click inside box and I get a voltage for a split second then 0v again. I am no expert in electronics, could this mean the motor is drawing too much current or something and tripping straight away?
If i connect the motor directly to a 12v supply (Old car battery) it operates fine.??

To remove the motor I think I need to take out the parcel shelf, its one of those annoying little things that is turning into a major job!

 

[AMGeed]

To remove the motor I think I need to take out the parcel shelf, its one of those annoying little things that is turning into a major job!

This may help with the motor removal

[YOUTUBE]/watch?v=G1uw531KGYM&t=174s[/YOUTUBE]


The link if the embedded video doesn't work.............https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1uw531KGYM&t=174s

 

[Madmanluke]

Did this ever get resolved? I have an identical issue where the relay supplies voltage for about half a second then drops. According to diagnostics lower position is normalised but upper isn’t. The motor doesn’t spin at all under the button from the drivers door

 

[Gbrowncls55]

Well mine (219) did exactly the same thing after I had it for about a year. There were a few wires split under the insulation where it goes round the nearside hinge Quite hard to see the crack. I went through each wire individually and let new wire in where necessary. Its been fine for two years, although it did stop for a day after I had been away for four weeks which I put down to voltage drop.