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Collinte 476s

Dodo juice lime prime is my choice for a pre wax cleaner.
 
Following advice from these forums, I have also gone down the SRP then 476s route with my brand new C350. I'm delighted to report that it looks fantastic (photos: http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/members-gallery/129175-c350-sport-2012-magnetite-black.html).

My only difficulty with the 476s was knowing when it had "dried to a haze". Buffing too soon and it felt like I was just wiping the wax off. Buffing too late and it became harder work. Someone suggested doing a couple of square feet at a time and waiting 4-5 mins before buffing. The time must vary considerably depending on the temperature, and working at that rate I'd need a whole dry day just to wax! (When I did mine it was in and out of my garage a dozen times as I tried to beat the showers, so took most of the day anyway! Garage lighting isn't good enough to work in there.)

But I'm a bit confused. A couple of people here have said use clay first. OP and I have brand new cars, so is clay necessary? What exactly does it do? Now that we've done the polish and wax, would it be better to wait until the next time or should we be claying now?
 
Clay decontaminates the paintwork, but if you were to use something like iron-x after you've washed it then wash it down again, claying isn't such a big job. It is essential though to make the paintwork as clean as possible to prepare it for polish and wax :)

If/when you do clay though use a medium/fine clay don't think you'll need to use hard clay on your car but make sure the panels are properly lubed up with a quick detailing spray so you don't mark/swirl them

Iron X Soap Gel from CarPro

Professional Detailing Clay Kits - Buy online from i4detailing.co.uk
 
Check my methods of detailing thread. There is a hd YouTube video I made ages ago of what order procedures should be in.
 
It was tongue in cheek...

Your car looks like new (shiney and clean) and the fact it is almost new...like a new car ! :)
 
I also use Autoglym SRP and then collinite 476. As mentioned earlier, the key really is to use the 476 on small areas at a time (no bigger than the size of a door for example) and use a damp applicator pad as it helps keep the layer thin. I also finding using a large cloth or ideally a soft towel to buff helps.
 
I also use Autoglym SRP and then collinite 476. As mentioned earlier, the key really is to use the 476 on small areas at a time (no bigger than the size of a door for example) and use a damp applicator pad as it helps keep the layer thin. I also finding using a large cloth or ideally a soft towel to buff helps.

I used to use 476s untill I tried Collie 845, so much easyier to buff off, however, I now use Auto Finesse Tough Coat's sealant. . .
 

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