Digital torque adaptor or Torque wrench

[Poynty]

Hi guys,

I’m fairly novice to mechanics, wanting to be able to take my wheels off to clean / if have tyre issues in future.

I’ve currently got the Torque wrench (FOURROBBER Torque Wrench1/2-Inch Drive Click 25-220 Nm Dual-Direction Adjustable Torque Wrench Set Amazon.co.uk)

But thinking of changing to the digital adaptor as it feels like it’ll be less prone to human error and more accuracy? (ThreeH 1/2''(1.5 to 147.6 ft-lbs.) Heavy Duty Digital Torque Adapter with LED&Buzzer Alert (1/2'' Drive & Includes adapters for 3/8'' and 1/4'') Amazon.co.uk)

What do you all think, any tips and instructions on this, for specs I think my Mercedes C300 Coupe 2016 April Reg is 130nm torque for bolts from reading online.

Also if agreement with changing to digital adaptor, would a standard non torque rachet work best or a breaker bar.

I’ve got a vonhaus corded impact wrench, breaker bar & 17mm 1/2 wrench socket (fits my wheel bolts)

Also got Halfords 3 ton hydraulic trolley

Photos attached for context of what I have and torque wrench and digital adaptor I am considering changing from and to.

 

[Chrishazle]

Never heard of this, only ever used an ordinary torque wrench set to the required 130Nm for my wheels, plus only ever used a windy gun or cordless impact wrench for removing wheel nuts - and even then with care, as it's far too easy to muller a locking wheel nut adapter with a mis-set thingy.. Why spend money on a fancy new digital fevice when what you have works fine??

 

[Wearsthefoxhat]

Why not buy a digital torque wrench ?.
Personally I would leave the impact wrench in its box and undo them by hand, unless the nuts are really tight.

 

[adm]

Stick with what you have.

Ratchet gun to get the wheel nuts off, ratchet gun to put them back on again. Then use the torque wrench you already have to check the final torque.

Just remember to loosen the torque wrench all the way off when you put it away. They don't like being stored when wound up.

 

[Poynty]

Why not buy a digital torque wrench ?.
Personally I would leave the impact wrench in its box and undo them by hand, unless the nuts are really tight.

A lot more expensive? / would you recommend just using the breaker bar to losen the nuts in that case?

All of items I’ve sent through are returnable so really leaning on forums advise for novice to take wheels off safely and easily assemble back on.

In relation to answer on torque wrench, I guess I’m worried I could be doing it wrong or it’s not as accurate as the digital adapter :/

In summary of my equipment below would you keep. change or return

1. VonHaus Impact Wrench 450Nm Torque Electric Nut Removal Tool with 1/2" Square Drive Hog Ring Anvil and Hard Case

2. FOURROBBER Torque Wrench1/2-Inch Drive Click 25-220 Nm Dual-Direction Adjustable Torque Wrench Set

3. Draper 34334 1/2" Sq. Drive Breaker Bar Chrome Vanadium 24 inch, 640mm Power Bar Heavy Duty

4. Draper 12743 Expert Deep Impact Socket, 1/2" Square Drive, 17mm

5. Draper 26733 1/2-Inch Square Drive 72 Tooth Reversible Ratchet , Blue

6. Halfords 3 Ton hydraulic trolley lift

 

[BasDust]

Up to you, but takes only 10 seconds to run each wheel nut out by hand once they are loose, once they are loose I just use the socket and my fingers, too slow with the rachet, same with winding them in. and never any damage to the wheels then. Unless you are running a garage and doing hundreds of wheel nuts a week seems a waste.
Digital wrench is your choice, but good old fashioned breaker, 17mm socket or two, and torque wrench is enough for me.

 

[Poynty]

Up to you, but takes only 10 seconds to run each wheel nut out by hand once they are loose, once they are loose I just use the socket and my fingers, too slow with the rachet, same with winding them in. and never any damage to the wheels then. Unless you are running a garage and doing hundreds of wheel nuts a week seems a waste.
Digital wrench is your choice, but good old fashioned breaker, 17mm socket or two, and torque wrench is enough for me.

I think that sounds sensible suggestion, do you think the torque wrench I’ve got looks good enough?

I will likely return the impact wrench and just do the old school method / as I will only be doing 2/3 times a year if that on my own car!

Anything else you think I might need aside from that, would the regular Rachet be of any use or breaker tackle it all? (Breaker, Torque Wrench, 17mm socket & Hydraulic trolley)

Thanks a lot for all help guys!!

 

[BasDust]

Definitely breaker to undo, I have a couple of 17mm sockets so one stays with the breaker, never use the extension so breaker is close to the wheel, one with the torque wrench for doing them up. If you torque them they are easy to undo next time. Don't really need much else, I have a set of thin gloves so I dont damage my paintwork.
Tools you have look fine for a weekend warrior.

 

[190]

The torque setting of wheel bolts is not so critical that you need to fuss over choosing one method or another.

People have spent a whole a whole lifetime tightening wheel bolts without the aid of a torque wrench and never encountered a problem.

Some in the trade have spent a lifetime grossly overtightening wheel bolts with an impact gun and only caused a problem for the next person to remove the wheels.

Whatever method you choose, you can't fail to improve on both of the above.

We could go on a talk about tightening to a certain torque being rather an approximate method of achieving the correct clamping force with several variables such as surface finish and lubrication involved in the outcome. Suffice it to say that provided a minimum safe level of torque is applied, wheel bolts are amongst the least critical bolts that require absolute precision in torque application.

 

[Petrol Pete]

PS ; make sure you buy a wheel bolt socket with the plastic protective sleeve on it to help avoid damaging the finish on your wheels , you know , the ones you hardly ever see at a tyre fitting shop.

 

[Smiley]

Up to you, but takes only 10 seconds to run each wheel nut out by hand once they are loose, once they are loose I just use the socket and my fingers, too slow with the rachet, same with winding them in. and never any damage to the wheels then. Unless you are running a garage and doing hundreds of wheel nuts a week seems a waste.
Digital wrench is your choice, but good old fashioned breaker, 17mm socket or two, and torque wrench is enough for me.

I would agree with this 100%. I've never heard of fourrubber torque wrenches; I will hazard a guess as to where they are made and to what standards. Utter waste of money imho. I would send all that cheap Amazon **** back. You have the trolley jack that's OK all you need is a breaker bar to undo the bolts, a 1/2 inch 6 point 17mm socket from Halfords with a lifetime guarantee - and then get a half decent diy quality ratchet torque wrench eg Sealey. And please don't default to Amazon for feckin everything there are plenty of good UK tool suppliers without sending more money to the US. Google primetools as one example, machinemart is another.

 

[Poynty]

I would agree with this 100%. I've never heard of fourrubber torque wrenches; I will hazard a guess as to where they are made and to what standards. Utter waste of money imho. I would send all that cheap Amazon **** back. You have the trolley jack that's OK all you need is a breaker bar to undo the bolts, a 1/2 inch 6 point 17mm socket from Halfords with a lifetime guarantee - and then get a half decent diy quality ratchet torque wrench eg Sealey. And please don't default to Amazon for feckin everything there are plenty of good UK tool suppliers without sending more money to the US. Google primetools as one example, machinemart is another.

Thank this is so helpful! And what would you use to do up the bolt back up / screw on, the breaker bar and finish up with the torque wrench?

 

[Poynty]

Definitely breaker to undo, I have a couple of 17mm sockets so one stays with the breaker, never use the extension so breaker is close to the wheel, one with the torque wrench for doing them up. If you torque them they are easy to undo next time. Don't really need much else, I have a set of thin gloves so I dont damage my paintwork.
Tools you have look fine for a weekend warrior.

Could you link the sockets you recommend, it sounds like everyone is suggesting Sealey, so might get their breaker bar and sockets?

 

[Poynty]

Could you link the sockets you recommend, it sounds like everyone is suggesting Sealey, so might get their breaker bar and sockets?

I’m thinking the below replacements for my kit?

Wheel Socket - Halfords Advanced Wheel Nut Impact Socket | Halfords UK

Torque Wrench - Sealey AK624B 1/2" Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench Calibrated Black Series 27-204Nm - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

Breaker bar- Halfords Advanced Professional Breaker Bar 1/2" Drive | Halfords UK

 

[BasDust]

Thank this is so helpful! And what would you use to do up the bolt back up / screw on, the breaker bar and finish up with the torque wrench?

I just pop the socket on the bolts and run them in with my fingers hand tight, they should go right in by hand. (breaker bar is too long and a clumsy tool so you could easily overtighten them with this) then partially tighten each one with the torque wrench, then fully torque them up. Lots of videos on you tube how to do, with lots of ways to confuse matters!

 

[BasDust]

I’m thinking the below replacements for my kit?

Wheel Socket - Halfords Advanced Wheel Nut Impact Socket | Halfords UK

Torque Wrench - Sealey AK624B 1/2" Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench Calibrated Black Series 27-204Nm - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

Breaker bar- Halfords Advanced Professional Breaker Bar 1/2" Drive | Halfords UK

That all looks lovely for what you need.

 

[Poynty]

That all looks lovely for what you need.

Thank you, I think I’m basically good then. Is Sealey or Halfords sockets better? From my reading Sealey is slightly better quality and if going for their torque wrench probably best suited. (£3 difference in the two)

Last dumb question, will this fit onto any breaker bar& Torque wrench / got confused when said impact sockets

Thanks everyone, hugely helped!

 

[BasDust]

For what you are doing either will last a lifetime. As long as they are all 1/2" Drive all are compatible with each other.

 

[tonysmb]

Impact sockets simply means that they are stronger to withstand the force of an impact gun. Everybody will have their own views on tools/socket brands etc but you won't go far wrong with Halfords Advanced for diy work, decent quality and a lifetime guarantee(keep the receipt!).

It's a good idea when releasing and tightening wheelnuts / bolts to do them alternatively, ie bolt 1, bolt 3, etc.. When replacing nuts/bolts, start them off by hand, possibly using the long socket, to ensure they're correctly aligned to the thread. Also, don't get under a car supported only by a jack, and belt & braces to chock another wheel when removing a wheel.

Lots of advice already on this thread, just take your time and don't be afraid to ask questions, everybody has to start somewhere.

If you ask a question about anti-seize compound (ie Copaslip or similar) you'll open a can of worms but most people will say do NOT use on the bolt/nut threads (because torque settings are for dry threads) but okay to use a very slight smear on the wheel centre/hub mating face around the 'hole' to prevent wheel sticking/'corroding' onto hub. However, if wheels are regularly removed, this is less of an issue.

If you do have a wheel that is 'stuck' on, even with bolts removed (possible if wheels have not been off for a long time), be very careful, particularly if car is only supported by a jack. Leave a couple of bolts partially 'on', to prevent wheel suddenly freeing and dropping off, use mallet / piece of wood to protect wheel, to release it, but be wary that you are applying a sideways force, which the jack might not 'like', and don't have your legs under the car.

Don't overthink it, just take your time and go through a mental checklist, ie hand/park brake on, wheel chocked, nuts/bolts initially 'cracked-off' before jacking up, after wheel replaced tighten up, final torque check with car off the jack etc.. It's a good idea to re-check the wheelnut torque settings again after approx 50-100 miles.

Good luck.

 

[Poynty]

Impact sockets simply means that they are stronger to withstand the force of an impact gun. Everybody will have their own views on tools/socket brands etc but you won't go far wrong with Halfords Advanced for diy work, decent quality and a lifetime guarantee(keep the receipt!).

It's a good idea when releasing and tightening wheelnuts / bolts to do them alternatively, ie bolt 1, bolt 3, etc.. When replacing nuts/bolts, start them off by hand, possibly using the long socket, to ensure they're correctly aligned to the thread. Also, don't get under a car supported only by a jack, and belt & braces to chock another wheel when removing a wheel.

Lots of advice already on this thread, just take your time and don't be afraid to ask questions, everybody has to start somewhere.

If you ask a question about anti-seize compound (ie Copaslip or similar) you'll open a can of worms but most people will say do NOT use on the bolt/nut threads (because torque settings are for dry threads) but okay to use a very slight smear on the wheel centre/hub mating face around the 'hole' to prevent wheel sticking/'corroding' onto hub. However, if wheels are regularly removed, this is less of an issue.

If you do have a wheel that is 'stuck' on, even with bolts removed (possible if wheels have not been off for a long time), be very careful, particularly if car is only supported by a jack. Leave a couple of bolts partially 'on', to prevent wheel suddenly freeing and dropping off, use mallet / piece of wood to protect wheel, to release it, but be wary that you are applying a sideways force, which the jack might not 'like', and don't have your legs under the car.

Don't overthink it, just take your time and go through a mental checklist, ie hand/park brake on, wheel chocked, nuts/bolts initially 'cracked-off' before jacking up, after wheel replaced tighten up, final torque check with car off the jack etc.. It's a good idea to re-check the wheelnut torque settings again after approx 50-100 miles.

Good luck.

Thank you! This really helps, I’ve now got the correct equipment ordered / saved money and ironing out the steps in my notes

Along these lines atm:

Removal

• Parking Brake on / Wheel Chuck placed behind wheels
• 1/4 inch turn to loosen Car Wheel Nuts whilst on ground
• Jack car up
• Breaker bar to remove wheel nut entirely

Installation

• Thread nut with socket or hands to snug fit on wheel
• 130nm Torque wrench nuts to click noise
• Lower car to ground
• Check Torque 50-100 miles that torque wrench click still there at 130nm.