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Dulux brilliant White gloss turning yellow...

Great customer service indeed: leaves a better reputation than if the paint had just done what it said on the tin in the first place. Here's another example:

We have a Yamaha CVP-109 digital piano, bought new in late 2000. It only gets light use, but we noticed a couple of keys started sticking. Turns out a manufacturing fault eventually leads to keys cracking at the hinge point.

Yamaha supplied a complete new and revised (no fault) 88-key keybed, which retails at £300-400, free of charge, with only the technician labour charge to pay — apparently until last year they even paid for labour, but as this is a 12-year-old problem they're no longer covering that aspect. However, as I did most of the work myself, the tech only charged a nominal admin and delivery fee, and we have what is effectively a new instrument.

The trouble is, companies need to be consistent in applying levels of customer care. I guess my piano example is similar to the SBC pump issue on the pre-facelift W211, but there are enough other cases (rust, mostly) where MB fall down that they don't have a great reputation.
 
And us too - in fact I've converted most of our family to using 'Eggshell' on skirting / doors etc, looks much smarter IMHO

What is so great about Eggshell compared to pure brilliant gloss? I am curious to find out.
 
The alternative being what?

The alternative? I understand from the rep that the reformulated Dulux paint has solved the yellowing problem and has taken it back to the way it was before they reduced the solvent content. In other words, it will yellow eventually...
He suggested the best paint was Dulux Trade brilliant gloss with a BLUE top to the can.
He suggested that Dulux Eco paint would never yellow because it is water based but that it is difficult to apply.
When I first started to deal with this problem myself (before taking up the matter with Dulux), I used Ronseal diamond hard brilliant White gloss which is water based. It is OK for skirting and surrounds but a pig for large flat surfaces like doors and window sills. So I used Dulux Satinwood for the actual doors and this goes on OK but is not ago shiny as solvent based gloss.
To complete the repainting, I think I will stick with Ronseal for the skirting etc and used the Dulux trade gloss for the doors.
Hope all this helps...by the way, since the number of door sides has become a status issue, I have insisted on a recount and have increased my figure to 40. Forgot the rear garage door!! :D
 
I remember a converstion with a Painter and decorator over 25 years ago and him saying that adding a small amount of black paint to white gloss would prevent it yellowing
 
What is so great about Eggshell compared to pure brilliant gloss? I am curious to find out.

Satinwood (referrred to by some as eggshell) isn't durable and chips easily.

It looks good, but it's the varnish in the gloss that makes it hardwearing.
 
That wasn't it.
White paint contains titanium dioxide which was in short supply following the Japanese tsunami..

For once DM I can confidently say you are wrong! Dulux, Watchdog, Crown and all the paint manufacturers acknowledge that they were forced to change their formula because of a 2010 EC directive to reduce solvents in paint. It's even explained on the cans.
The tsunami white paint problems for car manufacturers is a completely different issue...
 
Satinwood (referrred to by some as eggshell) isn't durable and chips easily.

It looks good, but it's the varnish in the gloss that makes it hardwearing.

Thanks John, clear & simple :)
 
I don't like gloss inside, the shiny surface reminds me of false teeth. Eggshell may be a little less durable, but in my last house it survived very well for about 10 years with minimal chipping, and certainly none of the yellowing that gloss suffers. I much prefer the rather subtle glow of eggshell.

Eggshell is, however, a bugger to get right except if it has lots of solvent, then is utterly vile to use.
 
I use satinwood.
I found water based hold it's colour (bright white) but is not very durable.
Oil based tends to "yellow"
About 15 years ago was renovating an old house and finished the glosswork. Next job was to tile the floor in an adjacent room. Glosswork turned "yellow" within a couple of days. Manufacturer consulted and "vapours" from the tile adhesive blamed for the problem. Manufacturer (Crown) paid for the redecoration costs.
About 20 years ago was renovating farm buildings for a wealthy client. All external doors replaced with new douglas fir doors & painted dark green. Soon after wood grain could be seen through the paint surface. Resin in douglas fir blamed in conjunction with paint mixed by machine at local decorator centre. Manufacturer (again IIRC Crown) paid for redecoration, but insisted on supplying factory mixed paint.
 

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