E320 cdi (s211 V6)

[KennyP]

Hello everyone,

I am suffering from what appears to be lack of oompf from my Brabus B6 and reading various threads on here does possibly point to the Maf being guilty.

I have checked over the boost pipes and can't find any splits and the electronic boost actuator was rebuilt a year or so ago. At this point I cleaned out the filters (K&N) and their boxes but I have been a little suspicious that things still weren't 'just right'. Last few days juddering occasionally occurs when accelerating smoothly and car is reluctant to drop a gear etc.

Am I correct in thinking there are 2 maf units within the plastic plenum that crosses the top of the engine from each airbox? If so, can I replace just these or is it the entire unit? I also plan to clean out the EGR as that seems to get a mention too.

I realise a 'plug in' will be sensible but wanted to check over these things first as my dealer is a good distance away. Anything else worth checking?

Thanks
KennyP

 

[KennyP]

320 cdi Maf issues

Right took off inlet to turbo from filters, removed the 2 flat mad sensors, sprayed in some carb cleaner and hey presto one working car.

The new issue is, can't find them to buy separately and mer are £300 quid as you have to buy the plastic pipe as well.

Anyone know of suppliers that can just do the sensors?

Thanks
KennyP

 

[merc85]

The unit is supplied only as all one.

 

[t-dawg1]

Right took off inlet to turbo from filters, removed the 2 flat mad sensors, sprayed in some carb cleaner and hey presto one working car. The new issue is, can't find them to buy separately and mer are £300 quid as you have to buy the plastic pipe as well. Anyone know of suppliers that can just do the sensors? Thanks KennyP

Which carb cleaner did you use mate as I might to spray mine too. Have a MAF code that been on mine for the last 3yrs. Car runs great and economy great too but would be glad to get rid of that code

 

[streethawk]

Is there a part number on the maf's which relate to a bosch or whoever makes them so you can find replacement. On my old w202 the maf in that was used in a vw so sure some of these are around I'd hope.

 

[KennyP]

Right, wee update. Missus took car out later today and the lurch/stutter returned albeit it only once and less strongly. The only bits moved/cleaned/sprayed were the maf sensors so I'm convinced I must be in the correct area.

The part number on them both (Bosch) is:
0 281 002 695

They are not cylindrical, but a cm or 2 deep, length of a fag packet and maybe 3 cm wide.

I used Comma Carb Clean (silver/white tin) with red lid which I used to good effect on the AFM on my old 944 so thought it worth a go with nothing to lose. The fact it ran better for half a day at least confirms I am in the right direction.

KennyP

 

[Codger49]

This Dutch site has them listed at 80 euros:

https://www.voorwindenparts.nl/hete...281-002-695.html?___store=en&___from_store=en

 

[KennyP]

Thanks Codger, I had a look but have bitten the bullet and gone to Merc
in case of any drama. I post back once here so folk know the outcome.

KennyP

 

[KennyP]

320 cdi turbo

New Mafs arrived, fitted and car went like stink! T/c activated easily in 2nd gear and an instant happy bunny for oh half a day.......then judder:wall bash:

I have spoken with merc, turbo technics and turbo dynamics. All have said sounds like the vanes on the turbo have gummed up and all admitted (even merc) that it is a common problem with the VNT turbos. Mercedes want £2260 PLUS VAT (!!!!!) for a new one, but both TT and TD reckon a rebuild is very doable for much much less.

I am currently favouring Turbo Dynamics as they were very approachable on the phone and can have the unit uplifted from my home which is handy. Anyone any experience of them?

Started dismantling everything and am down to the 6 manifold studs at the bulkhead. I have got one out but I'm not convinced a standard 10mm socket is correct. Does anyone know if they are something special for a better fit?

Cheers
KennyP

 

[t-dawg1]

New Mafs arrived, fitted and car went like stink! T/c activated easily in 2nd gear and an instant happy bunny for oh half a day.......then judder:wall bash: I have spoken with merc, turbo technics and turbo dynamics. All have said sounds like the vanes on the turbo have gummed up and all admitted (even merc) that it is a common problem with the VNT turbos. Mercedes want £2260 PLUS VAT (!!!!!) for a new one, but both TT and TD reckon a rebuild is very doable for much much less. I am currently favouring Turbo Dynamics as they were very approachable on the phone and can have the unit uplifted from my home which is handy. Anyone any experience of them? Started dismantling everything and am down to the 6 manifold studs at the bulkhead. I have got one out but I'm not convinced a standard 10mm socket is correct. Does anyone know if they are something special for a better fit? Cheers KennyP

Can you please send me a link as to where you bought your MAFS separately? Are they easy enough to swap over on the OM642 engine? I'm needing one for the Left side of the Y pipe. Car drives ok though but fault has shown on STAR

 

[streethawk]

New Mafs arrived, fitted and car went like stink! T/c activated easily in 2nd gear and an instant happy bunny for oh half a day.......then judder:wall bash:

I have spoken with merc, turbo technics and turbo dynamics. All have said sounds like the vanes on the turbo have gummed up and all admitted (even merc) that it is a common problem with the VNT turbos. Mercedes want £2260 PLUS VAT (!!!!!) for a new one, but both TT and TD reckon a rebuild is very doable for much much less.

I am currently favouring Turbo Dynamics as they were very approachable on the phone and can have the unit uplifted from my home which is handy. Anyone any experience of them?

Started dismantling everything and am down to the 6 manifold studs at the bulkhead. I have got one out but I'm not convinced a standard 10mm socket is correct. Does anyone know if they are something special for a better fit?

Cheers
KennyP

Make sure you use a six sided socket not multi spline like.

 

[ExMercTech]

10mm Socket.
Should a Torx socket.
Or as suggested a six sided socket

You can check the vanes by disconnecting the actuator rod and moving the arm slowing.

Sure someone has posted a link on how it's done somewhere.

 

[streethawk]

Exmerctech you'll know the answer to this. Iam just about to change turbo seal (orange one) as leaking a bit apparently so mb said even though they changed it a year ago so they have given me one free of charge as they can't get car in till end of the month and I go away Monday so need to do it myself which iam sure I'll do better than the dealer! Some say to use a little silicone between plastic y piece and seal but iam not so sure. Also do you think a bit of hand soap on seal as you push it on turbo as that will dry? And do you put seal in y piece first with jubilee clip nipped the push onto turbo? E320cdi v6 by the way. Sorry for hijacking op ☺

 

[Gareth]

I used a bit of oil on the inside of my seal to help get it in place, it takes a fair amount of force to get it home, but word of warning, check your plastic inlet (y piece) over closely for small hairline cracks (especially around the holes that secure the seal in-place) as mine has become brittle in-places and it can be a bit of a catch 22 situation where you need to apply a fair amount of force to get it home, but at the same time you need to be weary of cracking the plastics.

 

[streethawk]

I used a bit of oil on the inside of my seal to help get it in place, it takes a fair amount of force to get it home, but word of warning, check your plastic inlet (y piece) over closely for small hairline cracks (especially around the holes that secure the seal in-place) as mine has become brittle in-places and it can be a bit of a catch 22 situation where you need to apply a fair amount of force to get it home, but at the same time you need to be weary of cracking the plastics.

Ok thanks.

 

[KennyP]

Once again, thanks for ALL the info guys.

I was on it at 7 am this morning before work and used a flat sided six 3/8ths socket and managed to get them all out. It helped that 1/3 tin of wd40 was sprayed on last night and was able to soak in! All turbo fixings were removed except the metal flexi pipe that is attached to the small siamese exhaust ports.
That ain't budging for all the swear words in Scotland but I have separated it from the turbo itself so I shall just leave alone (unless it leaks).

Turbo now boxed up ready for collection tomorrow and then Turbo Dynamics can do their thing which will hopefully be much less than a replacement unit....

Despite having a number of turbo'd cars (Octy Vrs, Saab Aero) and all re-mapped I've never had a problem with a turbo itself so this is frustrating as the car has been doing this since 60k (now 67k) and has been VERY well looked after re oil changes/servicing. None though had variable nozzle tech and it seems to be this that causes the grief, I just hope this actually sorts it!

Cheers all.

KennyP

 

[t-dawg1]

Good luck with this mate hope it sorts your problem out

 

[streethawk]

Is it sticky buy moving rod by hand? If not your wasting money.

 

[Twistedmind]

I had a turbo rebuild and balance of my existing turbo from a gent on eBay.
50k miles and still going like a trooper

Sent from my iPhone using MBClub UK

 

[KennyP]

To be honest, I'm not sure if it was sticky by hand as I didn't want to force anything on the electronic actuator as it was rebuilt by ecu testing a year or so ago. All the symptoms and fault codes now point to the turbo as others have experienced, however !!, if i'm talking out my erse and it proves not to be I shall still post up so others can learn...

James from TD asked various questions about what was happening especially whether the car was hot or cold (hot only) and only in the lower gears. Have sent the whole lot including the actuator so time shall tell.

KennyP