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Error Codes P200B & P207E????

There's 2 cats at the very beginning of the exhaust (item: 480?), these are just after tha manifold, then there's another 2 at the centre.

Just think about it logically, your cats are supposedly 'gone', and you still passed an MOT, so if you remove them you are still left with 2 absent cats, and you will still pass your MOT! :)
 
There's 2 cats at the very beginning of the exhaust (item: 480?), these are just after tha manifold, then there's another 2 at the centre.

Just think about it logically, your cats are supposedly 'gone', and you still passed an MOT, so if you remove them you are still left with 2 absent cats, and you will still pass your MOT! :)

Sounds like alot cheaper option!

so with referance to both my codes:
200B = P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

207E = P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

Would these relate to the cats in blue or red?

cat.jpg


Also how would I stop the error codes coming back? as I presume its the oxygen sensor that gives the report.
 
I've just gone with Warranty Direct for my CL55K (2003). They are covering COMAND AND emissions for £50/month.

Not sure if the cats are covered under emmissions, but have a look under the T&C of the extracare policy online.

I am obviously NOT advocating that you take out a policy and then claim etc.

Good luck

CJ
 
Sounds like alot cheaper option!

so with referance to both my codes:
200B = P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

207E = P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

Would these relate to the cats in blue or red?

Also how would I stop the error codes coming back? as I presume its the oxygen sensor that gives the report.

I do not know the answer to those questions, so you'll have to wait til either BlackC55 or another specialist tells you :).

Just dont rush into anything (i know what its like when wanting something to be fixed!), they will not affect the way your car runs to dramatically, at best it will hinder the performance very slightly as they become more clogged.
 
The cats being measured by the O2 sensors and causing the codes are the front ones (the back ones have no O2 sensor "behind" them so the car cannot monitor them).

How will you prevent the CEL being on all the time if you remove the front cats?

Also, if a mixture problem has killed the front 2 it will kill the back two if they are fed the same diet by removing the front ones..
 
It has to be worth a few calls to get some service history/repair detail on the car from the garage(s) used for the last services - did the previous owner sell it because of this issue?
 
The cats being measured by the O2 sensors and causing the codes are the front ones (the back ones have no O2 sensor "behind" them so the car cannot monitor them).

How will you prevent the CEL being on all the time if you remove the front cats?

Also, if a mixture problem has killed the front 2 it will kill the back two if they are fed the same diet by removing the front ones..

Understood, not the best idea then to get rid of the two cats. So the issue sounds like the front two (highlighted in red)?

What would you suggest, wait for the error codes to return then take it to a MB independent garage? or is there anything I can do in the mean time?

:) Danny
 
It is the front cats that maybe the problem. If you remove these you will still have a problem. This is because the lambda probes will not be able to measure the before and after values.

You need to get it checked properly with a Star first before ordering any parts. A Star can test the CATS effiency.

If the front cats do need replacing prepare for a big bill BTW as they are expensive.
 
Hi, some history;

only had the car for 3 weeks, currently have 74K on the clock, last service was done at 63K.

Unfortunatley you may have discovered why the previous owner sold the car. I presume it was a private sale? Hopefully you saved some money compared to a trade sale to pay for these repairs.

For a while now I've wanted a CL500........but scared off by such bills.

Good luck.
 
With a car like this, there is a lot to be gained by using some of your own time to work through and check various items just to give you a baseline to move forwards.

If it was mine, I would renew the air filters, clean and then check the MAF, check the readings from the inlet air and coolant temp sensors, clean the throttle plate and bore, check all the vacuum connections and inlet gasket points for leaks, check EGR and EVAP systems are working and clear, check plugs/caps/leads (you already have), check for exhaust manifold and pipe leaks and change the engine oil and filter.

Then check/get checked the injector health/adaption/O2 sensor readings to verify all is well "upstream", clear the codes and then see if you need the CATs (at least they will then be protected).

Not much cost in parts - mainly time - and you will then be sure of the basics.


(A quick search shows that the aftermarket exhausts that remove the CATs are used to replace the rear ones and to scare the living cr@p out of old ladies as you cruise past. Who knows if the car can still pass an MOT afterwards?).

I have no details on your model, but usually the makeup of reduction and oxidation material in CATs designed to be used in sequential pairs is different - they are used to clean up different pollutants and designed to work together.

All the codes are telling you is the level of O2 in the stream before and after the front cats was similar at the time the code was set - the fact you had quite a long drive time before the light came on means there is still hope for them...there is, however, a good chance that the misfire history has done some damage as the unburned fuel from the misfire could have overheated them.

What's the mileage (and is it verified genuine)?
 
It is the front cats that maybe the problem. If you remove these you will still have a problem. This is because the lambda probes will not be able to measure the before and after values.

You need to get it checked properly with a Star first before ordering any parts. A Star can test the CATS effiency.

If the front cats do need replacing prepare for a big bill BTW as they are expensive.

Thanks Black, Why can't you be more local ;) I have booked it into MB Tech in Warrington for the 6th July. Fingers crossed it wont be the Cats......
 
With a car like this, there is a lot to be gained by using some of your own time to work through and check various items just to give you a baseline to move forwards.

If it was mine, I would renew the air filters, clean and then check the MAF, check the readings from the inlet air and coolant temp sensors, clean the throttle plate and bore, check all the vacuum connections and inlet gasket points for leaks, check EGR and EVAP systems are working and clear, check plugs/caps/leads (you already have), check for exhaust manifold and pipe leaks and change the engine oil and filter.

Then check/get checked the injector health/adaption/O2 sensor readings to verify all is well "upstream", clear the codes and then see if you need the CATs (at least they will then be protected).

Not much cost in parts - mainly time - and you will then be sure of the basics.


(A quick search shows that the aftermarket exhausts that remove the CATs are used to replace the rear ones and to scare the living cr@p out of old ladies as you cruise past. Who knows if the car can still pass an MOT afterwards?).

I have no details on your model, but usually the makeup of reduction and oxidation material in CATs designed to be used in sequential pairs is different - they are used to clean up different pollutants and designed to work together.

All the codes are telling you is the level of O2 in the stream before and after the front cats was similar at the time the code was set - the fact you had quite a long drive time before the light came on means there is still hope for them...there is, however, a good chance that the misfire history has done some damage as the unburned fuel from the misfire could have overheated them.

What's the mileage (and is it verified genuine)?

its got 74K on the clock it looks genuine going off the service/mot's. To be honest mate I wouldn't have a clue about where to start with your suggestions. I have only ever worked on old cars in the past, I have ordered a service/maintenance DVD so may be able to try a couple of your suggestions.
 
MB Tech will look after you. They are good guys.

My money is on the cats beeing knackered. Better start saving.....
 
We are hard done by over here - 8years/80,000 mile warranty on all CATs in the good-old-USofA - mandated by the EPA.
 
For that money i should imagine you could get a very nice stainless system with 2 new cats made to suit or maybe one of the shelf?



Lynall
 
Ok guys thank for all your help, just one last question please? where is the MAF sensor? so I can give it a clean and replace the air filter.
Thanks danny
 
Ok guys thank for all your help, just one last question please? where is the MAF sensor? so I can give it a clean and replace the air filter.
Thanks danny

Can anybody point me in the right direction?

Thanks Danny :)
 

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