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Fuel leak, 606 TD engine

Parrot of Doom

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
1,101
Location
Manchester, UK
Car
1997 R-reg W210 E300TD saloon
I have a diesel leak from around the fuel delivery system on my 1997 W210 E300 TD.

290594357_3c161c9088.jpg


In this image, taken from below the car, the front of the car is to the bottom of the photograph. The main block of the engine is to the right of the photograph.

The leak is roughly in the centre of the photograph, where the torch beam is centered. Thats where the diesel is coming from, its dripping slowly off the bottom of that plastic cylinder while the engine is running. The rate of loss is about 1 drip every 10-15 seconds. Not a big deal, but with winter approaching, wet roads, and motorbikes - not something I want to leave.

Sorry the photo is a bit poor, but here is the location from above:

290599625_5c4a2ae313.jpg


B07120000052.0291.gif


The leak appears to be somewhere from the side of the injection pump, at a point where one of the fuel pipes connects to the body of the pump.

There is no air in any of the pipes that I can see, and starting the car is a doddle.

I'm hoping that the leak is from one of the connections, and not the pump!

Can anybody help?
 
Have you checked the top of the injection pump where the 6 fuel feeds come out?

You may need to have the inlet manifold off to discover the source of the leak. It'll run OK without it assuming the turbo doesn't mind

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
I wanted to clean the manifold and EGR valve anyway, so I'll get that chance :)

On top, it looks very dry. I think I may have to order a complete new set of fuel lines and o-rings.
 
Parrot of Doom said:
I wanted to clean the manifold and EGR valve anyway, so I'll get that chance :)
You know you've always wanted to... When you do, can you let me know what size torx driver you need for the manifold?

Parrot of Doom said:
On top, it looks very dry. I think I may have to order a complete new set of fuel lines and o-rings.
So the leak's not from the top. A new set of pipes will do the trick but may not be needed. Some of then are tough to get at with the manifold on so I suppose you may as well just replace them... They're not expensive

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
I posted on http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=169662, its been suggested that the fuel shutoff valve is the problem.

I guess I'll have to take the manifold off, see what the issue is, and order the parts. Hopefully it won't be too expensive.

Thanks for the offer of the Torx but my mate has a full garage full of tools so I'll be ok :)
 
Parrot

If the top of the pump where the 6 injector lines come out is dry then it is most probably your o ring on the shut off solenoid.
2no. torx set screw in it be careful they are **** quality, take your washer bottle out first and you should be able to get it done. Beware upsetting those plastic lines too much they dont like it and are prone to problems when disturbed.

Part no. for o ring between shut off valve and IP body is A021 997 75 48 and new set screws are A001 990 35 12. The shut off valve can crack too but hopefully not this time.

Best of Luck

230K
 
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Cheers 230k, I don't suppose you happen to know the price of a shutoff valve, just in case?

I'll order the bits mid-week when I'm done working.
 
Parrot of Doom said:
Cheers 230k, I don't suppose you happen to know the price of a shutoff valve, just in case?

I'll order the bits mid-week when I'm done working.


Fuel shut off valve A000 078 44 49 approx £60 + vat although price list i have is about year and a half old.

By the way seal ring is about 50p, set screws are about 20p each.

Thanks,

230K
 
I have a shutoff valve I didn't need. And I wanted to know the torx size - I wasn't actually offering to lend you tools, but you're more than welcome!

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
hehe. How much do you want for that valve? In case I need a new one - at £60 I think I'll try the o-rings first!
 
Parrot of Doom said:
http://mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=166865

That thread is exactly the problem I am having. Looks like it contains the solution, so its off to the stealer I go to get the bits :)

Hi,

I have had the following issues with my 605 engine that caused fuel leak and some hard time:

- high pressure lines O ring on the top of the pump
- shutoff valve O ring
- air in the transparent fuel lines and some fuel leaks as well

I have those problem come out one by one. Each time had to pump the air out from the system causing the death of my battery.

I suggest you change all the O rings at the same time. It is an easy job to do (apart from the high pressure line where you need a special tool to undo the bolts).

Attila
 
Parrot of Doom said:
Cheers 230k, I don't suppose you happen to know the price of a shutoff valve, just in case?

I'll order the bits mid-week when I'm done working.


The shutoff valve would have costed me ~120EUR when I had the leaking problem. I have paid a local indy 6EUR for changing it.:)
 
I have a deisel leak on my E300, I replaced all the feed pipes, o rings and pre heater, all went well then last week saw diesel on my drive at home. I've booked mine in next week with my local indy, needs a service and MOT anyways, so best let him do the works for me.
 
Just ordered a new o-ring, 2 screws, and two pipes (and o-rings) for the lines that connect to that valve.

A mate of mine has some industrial strength 'super barsteward cleaning fluid of death' for the manifold and EGR valve :)
 
The leak is obviously after the lift pump as there is no air being drawn in. The cylinder in the photo is the lift pump which generates about 25psi.

First clean and check the fuel lines as others have said.
 
230K said:
Fuel shut off valve A000 078 44 49 approx £60 + vat although price list i have is about year and a half old.

By the way seal ring is about 50p, set screws are about 20p each.

Thanks,

230K

Right, as well as doing the manifold (see the howto thread I just posted), I did the fuel leak at the same time. Trouble is, its still leaking.

leak.jpg


The leak is coming from the underside of that black plastic cylinder in the middle of the picture, the one with the two yellow fuel lines entering the top and some kind of connector entering the side. Here is another image, from another forum:

boltok7.jpg


I have replaced 2 fuel lines as you can see, one of which goes to the underside of this component.

I could not figure out how to remove the large black connector from the cylinder. Does it twist and pull, or is it a straight tug off?

I have the O-ring and 2 bolts left over as I didn't want to break anything. Have I ordered the correct parts? Is it really just a case of removing the two bolts - is there a tube or pipe on the other side of that, and the O-ring goes on there? It looks to me like it should have some kind of gasket on instead. I'm slightly confused as there is a picture of somebody elses O-ring here, and the one I have from Mercedes, part number A0219977548 (Seal Ring) is slightly rounder than that. Could just be years of high compression on the ring in that picture though.

BTW, those fuel lines were absolute sods to remove! Took real force to get them off.
 
Snap, I have just had my E300td serviced and complained about my leak as posted earlier and it is the fuel shut off valve. It is now about £80 + VAT and has to come from Germany, 5 days:( So my leak is continuing untill then.

By the way, I found the fuel lines easilly removed, the white clips are pushed in to release the pipe, seemed a bit back to front when I started changing mine but they were all easy but fiddly
 
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Parrot

Behind the solenoid there is a little pipe that goes into a hole on the side of the pump, the o ring is your gasket in effect if you know what i mean. Go for it its a simple job after you have the torx headed bolts out. the o ring goes like that over time, it will be cracked you will see it when you stretch it.
If you want i will talk you through it on the phone. PM me if you like.

230K
 
Thanks mate, I think I've got it.

I'll remove the washer bottle tomorrow and have a go at getting it off.

Do I need to remove the fuel lines as well, or is there enough play to get the O-ring on without doing that? Do I need to remove that connector on the side of the valve?

BTW, theres some yellow gunk in the heads of the torx bolts. Is that paint from the factory that supplied the bolts?
 

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