• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

Glasurit paint expert needed....

I work for the company that manufacturers these products, if you e-mail

[email protected]

She will tell you everything you ever need to know, if you prefer to call her, her number is

Hope that helps :thumb:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It reads as though the last one is the much vaunted Nano technology. Very hard but can't be air dried, needs an oven or infra-red lamps.
 
I saw that, the guys here said it was for a particular Lexus, not on Mercs. No one uses it here yet...
 
Can't seem to find details on scratch resistance, stone chipping and ease of repair. Shall we see if we can get Jessica on here, I've sent her a mail....
 
Last edited:
The second one listed was high scratch resistance, the third one ultra high resistance.

The downside to high scratch resistance clear-coat is it tends to chip in use and shale when sanded, making getting a feathered edge is difficult.

I would be more bothered about clarity, long lasting UV protection and adhesion than scratch resistance.
 
Thanks guys.

Scratch resistance is king for me, the odd stone chip I am going to get and will have to live with, thought I could use undercoats with similar colour to 189 so that stone chips won't show as much as they do with the factory white undercoat ! :(:(

What other tips can you give for a straight car getting a repaint, is there any product that will give a tiny bit less gloss on the bumpers but not too much less gloss otherwise insects leave stains that dont come off! Grrrrr.

Here is an official picture, see they are pretty shiny but not as shiny as the steel.

Is there a tough paint for the inside lips of the wheel arches and the bottom of the sills where stones really knock the stuffing out of it?
 
Last edited:
The only problem with the harder Glasurit clearcoats is that it precludes attaining a maximum color depth and concours finish.

Went through a great deal of research and finally decided on the Glasurit 90 water based system for my build.
On a C124,the Glasurit material cost alone is about 1400 sterling.
The end result after much color sanding was a mirror finish.

The harder coats come down to the skill of the painter and if a slight orange peel or any imperfection exists it becomes very difficult to correct.

Below is pre final clearcoat color sanding and post color sanding:



 
Last edited:
They tell me you can't colour sand any Glasurit metallic colour coat until the first clear coat is on, at which point in time will it still make any difference Ed...??


Did you get any feedback from BASF about the differences in clears.
 
I'm guessing the first one appears to be solvent based. [ VOC ready for use???] The later 90 based systems water based. As DM says last one for nano type finishes.
 
Last edited:
These are all for the 90 system...

The nano one sounds like the ducks nuts, wonder if this is used in the UK yet...??
 
They tell me you can't colour sand any Glasurit metallic colour coat until the first clear coat is on, at which point in time will it still make any difference Ed...??

The term color sanding ( at least in the USA ) has changed definition over the years.
Originally it applied to a single stage paint like a lacquer that after applying enough coats could be sanded or cut down to a highly reflective finish.

Now the term applies to the sanding of the clear coat.
A good painter should be able to lay down the base color coat with a finish that doesn't require any sanding.
If the base color coat has imperfections it can be lightly cut and buffed to get rid of orange peel or imperfections. Lightly and not enough to disturb the reflective particles in a metallic finish.

The clear coat wet sanding is done with much clean water and 1200-2000 grit paper.
Followed up with a machine buffer and compound and then to a good quality carnauba wax.


Did you get any feedback from BASF about the differences in clears.

The response that we got from BASF was that the harder coats if applied properly would give a great factory finish along with being extremely durable.
Inspect any factory finish and you will have a bit of orange peel.

The standard clear is very durable and can be color sanded.
I was questioning the water based system, but the painter felt it flowed and leveled much better then the solvent base or catalyzed paints.
The base color coat really laid down smooth and didn't take that long to air dry.

Ed A.
 
Thanks guys.

Scratch resistance is king for me, the odd stone chip I am going to get and will have to live with, thought I could use undercoats with similar colour to 189 so that stone chips won't show as much as they do with the factory white undercoat ! :(:(

Mind to keep a note of the undercoat colour used for future repairs.
Some clear over base colours show different tones depending on the undercoat colouring.
The factory white undercoat is possibly used to enhance a lighter metalic colour.

I used to be a panelbeater, and always painted my own cars.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom