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Heater Wiring Diagram For CLK W208??

Just thought I'd update you guys on this ventilation issue. Managed to map a few of the loom harness connections behind the heater control panel, but when testing for voltage i noticed that on one of the loom connections the voltage would drop (from 12v to 0) when I moved the loom, maybe a brocken wire inside perhaps. I connected everything back up and for some reason the ventialtion seemed to work as it should, even given me cold air when selected, as before it was only hot air comming out. Anyway, was driving for an hour or so last night and the heating just suddenly went hot (temp knobs set to blue) and the fan speed dropped so reducing the amount of air comming from the vents. I'm wondering if it is a dodgy earth now.
 
Did you make a not on the wire that had voltage and lost it? Wire colour or connector pin number? Doesn't sound like a ground issue if it was supply voltage for the control unit going on and off. But it could have been some output too.
 
Finally managed to sort the ventilation problem out. Traced the main supply wire from the back of the heater control panel to the fuse box and dicovered that the fuse wasn't seated tightly as when I touch it the supply voltage on the back of the HCP would fluctuate from 0 - 12v. Took the fuse out sprayed some WD40 on the leg popped back in and it seems all good know. Just have to work out why the AC doesn't work. noticed the following in regards to this:-

- When temp knobs on cold setting AC compressor clutch doesn't engage
- EC light is'nt on indicating there should'nt be an issue with the GAS level
- Tested connection going to compressor and there is 0 volts when temp is set to cold
- Did a continuity check on the above connection to the back of the HCP and it is fine.

Would anyone know what else I can check, is there a relay which switches current to the AC compressor clutch. Also how reliable is the low AC gas indicator on the EC button, when I press the button the light does come on so I know the light works

cheers


wayne.
 
Great that you got that power issue sorted. This AC would not have a diagnosis display, a bit difficult to test if sensors like the evaporator temperature sensor or pressure sensors work properly.

Does the compressor not run even shortly after switch on? What about trying windscreen defrost mode?

If there is no power on the control line, then it should not be the compressor clutch. And the control line comes directly from the pushbutton control unit.
 
The clutch is in series with the sensors, if not enough charge then the clutch cannot cut in, with the dials set to min temp, and the EC lamp not lit (when on it means AC off) thats all you can do to test.

It would need plugging into STAR to know what it is
 
I'll have to dig that out over the wkend, but would appreciate it if you could find a print out to help.


Cheers

Wayne
Did you get to the bottom of the Heater Blower motor running full pelt as soon as ignition on. Have removed blower and regulator. It has a 8 pin plug connector can't find anuthing like it to replace it. Any advice appreciated
 
As Diesel Benz says yes they can.

I will try and print off something to help

Can you put up the first 6 VIN number please
Did you get to the bottom of the Heater Blower motor running full pelt as soon as ignition on. Have removed blower and regulator. It has a 8 pin plug connector can't find anuthing like it to replace it. Any advice appreciated 1975 Sl500 R107
 

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