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How do I remove a "rounded" wheel bolt?

Slartibartfast

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Sittingbourne, Kent
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W221 S350L, R231 SL350 (both sold) & SL400 (current)
I recently had my wheel powder coated (really pleased with them) and today was checking the the bolts were still tight as recommended. All were fine except one which I could not check because it had been rounded off (probably by incorrect socket used or put on too tightly?). I have ordered a new bolt but how do I remove the rounded one?

Any advice appreciated. TIA

bolt rounded.jpg
 
Done it myself on a stubborn bolt once, i used one of them 12 point imperial sockets, that was ever so slightly too small, and i mean just, then basically smacked it on with a hammer, came off pretty easy after that, you will mess up the socket as well though
 
If all else fails, try a locking wheel bolt removal specialist, they make removing sheared locking wheel bolts look easy. They would no doubt be handy at removing a rounded bolt too.
 
Thanks for the replies and suggestions .
I've been in contact with the company that did the powder coating for me. I'm taking the car over to them so they can remove the rounded bolt. Cheers
 
If all else fails, try a locking wheel bolt removal specialist, they make removing sheared locking wheel bolts look easy. They would no doubt be handy at removing a rounded bolt too.
I've just been to my local A1 tyre fitters who kindly removed it FOC 😃

IMG_20230224_165155.jpg
 
Possibly over torqued because someone has put copper grease on the threads; they need to be clean. Copper grease on the mating surface but not on the threads.
 
Oh oh.....now you have done it!.....you are of course completely correct....although it does not usually make them seize solid....more likely work loose even after over tightening.........but it usually leads to a long argument on most forums from the "I've always done it with no issues" mob. Well I've always speeded (sped?!) and got away with it too....does not make it right and one day I won't get away with it. No manufacturer ever has advised copper slip (usually the opposite) or any other lubricant on wheel bolt threads and since they also don't quote torque amounts for lubed threads how tight you are doing them up is antibodies guess.....A thin smear on the mating surfaces to stop the dissimilar metals corroding together is all you want. Just for info I'm an ex car mechanic and ex MOT tester....so I'm not just making it up!
Cue 10 pages of counter arguments that I'll be ignoring.
 
Oh oh.....now you have done it!.....you are of course completely correct....although it does not usually make them seize solid....more likely work loose even after over tightening.........but it usually leads to a long argument on most forums from the "I've always done it with no issues" mob. Well I've always speeded (sped?!) and got away with it too....does not make it right and one day I won't get away with it. No manufacturer ever has advised copper slip (usually the opposite) or any other lubricant on wheel bolt threads and since they also don't quote torque amounts for lubed threads how tight you are doing them up is antibodies guess.....A thin smear on the mating surfaces to stop the dissimilar metals corroding together is all you want. Just for info I'm an ex car mechanic and ex MOT tester....so I'm not just making it up!
Cue 10 pages of counter arguments that I'll be ignoring.
There is evidence of copper grease on the thread. I've ordered a few spare wheel bolts, a torque wrench and a Mercedes wheel nut socket. When they arrive I'll be removing all the bolts, cleaning the threads and replacing them with the correct torque (150Nm).
 
Oh oh.....now you have done it!.....you are of course completely correct....although it does not usually make them seize solid....more likely work loose even after over tightening.........but it usually leads to a long argument on most forums from the "I've always done it with no issues" mob. Well I've always speeded (sped?!) and got away with it too....does not make it right and one day I won't get away with it. No manufacturer ever has advised copper slip (usually the opposite) or any other lubricant on wheel bolt threads and since they also don't quote torque amounts for lubed threads how tight you are doing them up is antibodies guess.....A thin smear on the mating surfaces to stop the dissimilar metals corroding together is all you want. Just for info I'm an ex car mechanic and ex MOT tester....so I'm not just making it up!
Cue 10 pages of counter arguments that I'll be ignoring.
I'll get my coat.
 

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