• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

How do you safely lift an E Class MB without a garage lift?

Food for thought? widely used by true offroaders and emergency services-AIRBAG JACKS--only to be used for raising a vehicle not supporting it permanently!- helps if its got a subframe/ chassis too! ALL CAVEATS APPLY!!!!!!

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
Last edited:
Jacking under a diff on vehicle with IRS puts the weight through the diff mounts. Doubt that they were designed with that in mind when NVH makes or breaks a car's reputation for comfort.
 
Jacking under a diff on vehicle with IRS puts the weight through the diff mounts. Doubt that they were designed with that in mind when NVH makes or breaks a car's reputation for comfort.
Moot point though if the diff is solidly mounted to a subframe.
 
If you need to spend some time under the car, what we used to do is put one end on a pair of ramps, and then lift the other end on a trolley jack and then slip a ramp under the wheels at the other end. (One at a time, natch.)

Don't drive the car up onto four ramps at the same time because you'll double the likelihood of one ramp slipping as you drive up.

It wasn't quite Health and Safety but it seemed good enough "back in the day" when most Dads had ramps and could easily borrow a pair from a friend or neighbour.

Screenshot 2023-04-20 at 12.26.16.png
 
Last edited:
If you need to spend some time under the car, what we used to do is put one end on a pair of ramps, and then lift the other end on a trolley jack and then slip a ramp under the wheels at the other end. (One at a time, natch.)

It wasn't quite Health and Safety but it seemed good enough "back in the day" when most Dads had ramps and could easily borrow a pair from a friend or neighbour.
Bit o caution re ramps.
I had used the ramps for years no issue, drove the Gr Cherokee onto them and 1st one buckle, then t'other. A slow decent if mo mo.
But it was a flippin' obese Gr Cherokee.
 
Bit o caution re ramps.
I had used the ramps for years no issue, drove the Gr Cherokee onto them and 1st one buckle, then t'other. A slow decent if mo mo.
But it was a flippin' obese Gr Cherokee.
Good warning.

Lots of ramps have load rating to two tonnes - and many less than that - while your Grand Cherokee would have been maybe 2500kgs / 5000+ lbs.

And rust on old ramps weakens them too.
 
Good warning.

Lots of ramps have load rating to two tonnes - and many less than that - while your Grand Cherokee would have been maybe 2500kgs / 5000+ lbs.

And rust on old ramps weakens them too.

The load on a pair of ramps is only half (approx.) the weight of the car though, so it sounds like they must have been weakened or damaged?

As an aside, Sealey do 3 tonne polypropylene ramps now, which look quite interesting:

1682017473439.png

They are a little (3cm) lower than my conventional 2.5 tonne ramps though.
 
The load on a pair of ramps is only half (approx.) the weight of the car though, so it sounds like they must have been weakened or damaged?
As an aside, Sealey do 3 tonne polypropylene ramps now, which look quite interesting:
Agreed. I know what you mean but I wonder whether those ubiquitous "2 tonne" ramps are actually set for a four tonne vehicle, including fuel.
 
Eight tonnes potentially.....2 tonnes per corner. MIne are clearly labelled as 2 tonne limit...EACH.
Even if you used two on a four tonne car, virtually half the weight of the car will still be on the two wheels that are still in the floor. My money would have been a failed weld or structural failure on the ramps that collapsed.
 
In response to my experience, they are all good points.
Bought in the 70's I haven't a clue if they had any rating.
It wasn't failure due to rust, The uprights were flat steel, they became less flat as the fat pig descended, they bowed.

Since I've straightened the uprights I will only send the wife under the Viano. As It's safer for me to be rescuer.
That's the value of risk assessments.
 
I have had my S203 C class up on 4 axle stands and all wheels off for a refurb. As said, use a quality trolley jack and quality axle stands ,lift the front up first via the pad fitted in the middle of the cross member , place the axle stands (not really 'axle stands' ,what modern car has an axle these days ?) in a suitable position then repeat around the back of the car from under the differential . Add two more axle stands , job done .

PS first make sure your diff does not have an heat exchanger diffuser bolted to the bottom off it before lifting , you MUST remove it first , it' s pain to get to on a car with the front wheels in the air.

Ask me how I know :doh: .

OK , I knew it was there , I got carried away with the task in hand and forgot :p.

Safety first .
 
Eight tonnes potentially.....2 tonnes per corner. MIne are clearly labelled as 2 tonne limit...EACH.

That's unusual though - as mentioned above the large majority of "2 tonne" ramps are rated per pair ... not many people need to raise an 8 tonne vehicle. The only ones I've seen like that are professional heavy duty types incorporating a jack to raise the top part of each ramp further once the vehicle is on it ... but then normal caveats about jacks would apply!
 
Have you considered renting a bay?

I did. I am aware there are garages which offer lifting bays for hire and mechanics on-hand for a bit of help if necessary, tools, etc.

I live in County Durham, could not find one. Maybe there are available, just not advertised or I am not searching in the right places?

BTW, this is such a great business model idea for anyone with enough capital available to invest! I would if I had the capital for it!

Any wealthy investors out there?
 
There is a rubber pad in the middle front under the engine for jacking .
You can also Jack under the rear diff .
Buy a 3 ton Jack with a larger round Jack pad on it . Mine is an SGS one .
Drive or reverse the car onto wheel ramps , then Jack under the diff or front rubber pad and place 2 axle stands under the side sill points .
Job done
That SGS Jack looks sturdy, but at 465mm fully erect, it might not be long enough...

Sorry... 😆... That sounds rude... 😆...
 
That SGS Jack looks sturdy, but at 465mm fully erect, it might not be long enough...

Sorry... 😆... That sounds rude... 😆...

I can see a fair few posters right now with a tape measure out , the ones born a male that are still attached anyhow 😜.

Extended may of been a better word . :)
 
They vary, I have seen a few going as high as 650mm

He means before you extend them . 👍in relation to how high the jack can lift.
 
They vary, I have seen a few going as high as 650mm
Jesus , that’s high . How much is a Jack capable of lifting to that height ? You probably increase risk as you go higher and add in instability, movement of the Jack , movement of the vehicle.
Too high for me in a DIY capacity
 
They vary, I have seen a few going as high as 650mm
How high do you want to get the car ?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom