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How do you safely lift an E Class MB without a garage lift?

LGGVW said:
I did. I am aware there are garages which offer lifting bays for hire and mechanics on-hand for a bit of help if necessary, tools, etc.
I live in County Durham, could not find one. Maybe there are available, just not advertised or I am not searching in the right places?
BTW, this is such a great business model idea for anyone with enough capital available to invest! I would if I had the capital for it!
Any wealthy investors out there?
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You're not the first to think that. They open and close fairly regularly, as people fail to make the numbers add up. Property, facilities, insurance, staff, business rates. It's all like your local MoT station without that regular stream of steady income.
 
LGGVW said:
I did. I am aware there are garages which offer lifting bays for hire and mechanics on-hand for a bit of help if necessary, tools, etc.

I live in County Durham, could not find one. Maybe there are available, just not advertised or I am not searching in the right places?

BTW, this is such a great business model idea for anyone with enough capital available to invest! I would if I had the capital for it!

Any wealthy investors out there?
Click to expand...
It's been done quite a lot . Less popular now , my guess is it might have fallen victim to the nuances of 'elf & safety/public liability insurance etc.
 
I had to lift mine c320 put front on ramps then jack back up for axle stands, when level it only gave me 10-11 inch clearance tight space, so I been looking of best method, made me a bit nervous lifting car then going under, I used axle stands on rear jack points then axle stands under rear arm mounts and jack under diff.
I would like it higher to give room I have looked at long reach jack and some home made stands or platform type, It was never a problem lifting old focus
so watching with intrest for ideas
 
There are very few tasks that require both ends of the car to be raised simultaneously (except for removal of all wheels for say, refurb - in which case tyre just clear of the ground is sufficient). What work are you proposing that requires all four corners lifted simultaneously?

LGGVW said:
I think 400mm to a max. 500mm. It means I can sit on a low stool and be relatively eye-level with the wheel arches.
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If you are actually serious in that response I urge you to rethink. That is a ridiculous height to be raising a car to especially raising one end at a time. Raise only as high as required for access. Your comfort is not a priority.
 
LGGVW said:
That SGS Jack looks sturdy, but at 465mm fully erect, it might not be long enough.
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I had issues with SGS jacks, cheap and you get what you pay for.
And then the customer service is worse.

I favour the Sealy. Superior in every way, and only a few quids more.
 
Sorry....but they are equally cheap and cheerful.....the very reason my workshop manager won't buy any of there stuff. Especially the powered stuff like grinders and drills...lasts about five minutes in professional use.
 
m80 said:
I had issues with SGS jacks, cheap and you get what you pay for.
And then the customer service is worse.

I favour the Sealy. Superior in every way, and only a few quids more.
Click to expand...
I once bought a SGS compressor - utter crap. Sent it straight back and spent loads more on a decent belt driven model from a proper compressor manufacturer.
 
Bellow said:
There are very few tasks that require both ends of the car to be raised simultaneously (except for removal of all wheels for say, refurb - in which case tyre just clear of the ground is sufficient). What work are you proposing that requires all four corners lifted simultaneously?
If you are actually serious in that response I urge you to rethink. That is a ridiculous height to be raising a car to especially raising one end at a time. Raise only as high as required for access. Your comfort is not a priority.
Click to expand...
I get your point completely. I am serious insofar as lack of experience goes. I never lifted a car before, so this thread is exactly aimed at getting feedback from the more experienced in the community here.

The work I am considering is to remove the wheels, remove the wheel arch liners, clean, steam blast the inside of the arches, check for rust, convert the rust, and then treat the arches with DINITROL, or ACF50. Then steam blast the liners, spray both inner and exposed sides with ACF50, remount them, and remount the wheels.
 
LGGVW said:
I get your point completely. I am serious insofar as lack of experience goes. I never lifted a car before, so this thread is exactly aimed at getting feedback from the more experienced in the community here.
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Think of it this way - the higher the car is raised, if it topples, it moves the same distance sideways (towards you) as it was raised - and with greater momentum. Your chances of jumping clear are minimal and the consequences horrific.
LGGVW said:
The work I am considering is to remove the wheels, remove the wheel arch liners, clean, steam blast the inside of the arches, check for rust, convert the rust, and then treat the arches with DINITROL, or ACF50. Then steam blast the liners, spray both inner and exposed sides with ACF50, remount them, and remount the wheels.
Click to expand...
You really don't need so much height for that. And, you should split it into two jobs - front and rear.
I've lifted a car at both ends simultaneously (reluctantly) and it isn't easy or for the faint of heart. Then there's lowering it when done and that's every bit as hazardous as lifting.
I can see why you want to do it in a 'oner' but split the job, raise each end as far as you feel comfortable with, reduce the risk and anxiety and the task will be a lot more relaxing.
 
Bellow said:
Think of it this way - the higher the car is raised, if it topples, it moves the same distance sideways (towards you) as it was raised - and with greater momentum. Your chances of jumping clear are minimal and the consequences horrific.

You really don't need so much height for that. And, you should split it into two jobs - front and rear.
I've lifted a car at both ends simultaneously (reluctantly) and it isn't easy or for the faint of heart. Then there's lowering it when done and that's every bit as hazardous as lifting.
I can see why you want to do it in a 'oner' but split the job, raise each end as far as you feel comfortable with, reduce the risk and anxiety and the task will be a lot more relaxing.
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Hi,

Thank you so much for the advice. I have taken notice and will do what you just advised.

You're right. I did think about the potential risk of lifting the whole car in one go. The risk is too high, I get that.
 
LGGVW said:
I did. I am aware there are garages which offer lifting bays for hire and mechanics on-hand for a bit of help if necessary, tools, etc.

I live in County Durham, could not find one. Maybe there are available, just not advertised or I am not searching in the right places?

BTW, this is such a great business model idea for anyone with enough capital available to invest! I would if I had the capital for it!

Any wealthy investors out there?
Click to expand...
If it was a good business model then it would have attracted the investment.

Relatively few people carry out maintenance on their vehicles, the majority of new vehicles are leased and are serviced by dealers or independents. How many people do you know, especially those under 40 would consider working on their vehicles? How many own the tools and possess the knowledge, experience and confidence to carry out such work?

The pool of enthusiasts that would need access to a lift is small and the investment for the facilities required ( building, equipment, tools, utilities, business rates, insurance, staff to advise and oversee safety etc) would not see a return.
 
Last edited:
LGGVW said:
They vary, I have seen a few going as high as 650mm
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The stability at that height is very low. It would take little force to destabilise the car and have it fall.

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Ignore the irritating presenter.
 
LGGVW said:
Hi,

Thank you so much for the advice. I have taken notice and will do what you just advised.

You're right. I did think about the potential risk of lifting the whole car in one go. The risk is too high, I get that.
Click to expand...
What I've said will make more sense once you get started. Lifting both ends requires lifting each end in stages to keep it 'square'. Lifting the whole height at one end without the other creates a force equivalent to around one fifth of the car's weight - trying to topple it off its restraints. Bear that in mind when working on the rear. The front wheels have to be very very securely chocked.

FWIW, my Suburban has sufficient ground clearance for any task (not involving wheel removal) to be accomplished without raising it. It took working underneath it while it's still planted on its wheels for me to realise how stressful (at the subconscious level) working under a raised vehicle is - no matter how well supported it is. Freed of worry, it's a lot more relaxing and as a consequence I can take my time and the end result is better. Make that work for you!
 
W1ghty said:
You buy rubber pads that fit the sill slots for the top of the axle stands (eBay )
www.ebay.co.uk

Jack Pads Rubber Pad Adapter Fit For Mercedes Benz A B C E M R S CLA CLK Class | eBay

(Item included: 1 x Jack Pad. 3) Easy to use. Material: Rubber. 2) Perfect match for the original one.
www.ebay.co.uk
This is the sort of thing , but the axle stand ones have a slot in the bottom as well
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I seem to remember that there are already rubber/plastic inserts already in my jacking points, are these necessary also?
 
D2028 said:
I seem to remember that there are already rubber/plastic inserts already in my jacking points, are these necessary also?
Click to expand...
Mine on both MB’s are just plastic slots to receive the thingy’s in the picture . Are yours different ?
 
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