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how to change the air con condenser on a W124 E320

andy_k

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 23, 2003
Messages
5,204
Location
Bexhill, East sussex
Car
Alfa GTV 3.0
Here's a fun job to do on a Saturday afternoon

Please bear in mind that like all "how tos" it's written with the clear

benefit of hindsight and although this is the order it probably should be done

it's not neccessarily the order I did it in :)


Due to their position, these are a common failure on the W124 and as soon as

you get yours out you'll find out why.


It's a job that's not covered by the Haynes manuals they say leave it alone and let an aircon specialist do it for you - but hey, that's like a red rag to a bull isn't it?

So bearing this in mind this isn't a job you should do if there is any gas left in the system although if you need a new condenser it's unlikely there will be especially if it's like mine with a big hole in it - play safe though and get it checked first.

Tools you'll need

Spanners

1 x 25mm
1 x 29mm
1 x 19mm
1 x 10mm
1 x 8mm

Screwdrivers or a 7mm spanner/socket to use on the hose clips

5 litres Anti Freeze/coolant
top up for auto transmission fluid

The job should take no more than 3 hours assuming everything goes according to plan.

Getting started

Firstly you need to remove the engine protection tray under the sump and drain your radiator - this panel should be held in place by two 8mm bolts with large washers (about the size of a 10p piece attached to them) once they are removed then the tray drops down and you can get at the radiator drain or bottom hose clip. Whilst you are under the car disconnect the lower feed for the transmission fluid cooler and wrap this in either a plastic bag or a cloth to reduce leakage and to stop any dirt getting in. You can also disconnect the clamp holding the upper pipe for the trans fluid cooler - this is located at the base of the radiator dead centre on the car. Whether or not you need to release it may be academic as you'll probably find it's rusted through. Check the condition of the pipes and if need be order some replacements.

From the top of the car remove the fan protection shroud - there's a small
clip in the top centre - push it towards the front of the car then turn the rear section of the shroud in the direction of the arrows - once it seperates just hang it over the viscous fan.

The front section of the shroud is held in place by two clips (one either side) once you've removed those you can lift it out. With that section out you can then get at the back section and remove that completely as well

Disconnect the top feed for the trans fluid cooler and seal that off as well

Disconnect the other two hoses to the radiator and the little return pipe on the top.

The radiator is held in with two clips, lever those off with a screwdriver and you should then be able to lift it clear of the car.

In front of the main radiator you will now be able to see the condenser with the auxilliary fans attached to it - this unit comes out all in one piece. Don't try and strip it down on the car it doesn't work.

As you face the car there is a small trim panel on the right hand side held in
with two plastic screws - remove it and you can now get at the top pipes attaching the condenser. To undo those you need the 29mm and 25mm spanners and be prepared for a struggle as they may be tight - if they won't budge use plan B and cut the pipe between the union and the condenser with a pair of decent pliers - it's soft copper and you don't need to re-use this bit and once the condenser is out you'll have more room to get a grip on the union

Remove the headlight on the passenger side - It doesn't need to come right out but you need to at least move it to get at the other union and to disconnect the auxillary fans. You need to remove the indicator lens as well to gain access to two of the retaining bolts. the indicator is held in with a clip you access from inside the wing - once you unclip it the lens just pops out.

Take the panel off below the headlight

With the head light moved to one side you can get at the bottom union for the condenser - again, be prepared for a fight these unions seem to corrode and are difficult to undo.

Just behind the headlight is the clip which holds down the fan connector, slide the clip off then spilt the connector then pull the wire through - there's a couple of cable ties you'll need to cut in order to free the wire.


Now, undo the two clips securing the condenser to the front crossmember and
lift it out with the fans attached. The fan shroud is attached to the framework by a series of push in connectors - these are virtually impossible to get out from the front without breaking so either order some new ones from the dealer or again, there is a plan B.

Undo the bolts at the side of the fan shroud - there are four 8mm bolts, two have nuts on the other side, the other two dont. with those removed you can
just about lift the shroud enough to get at the last two retaining bolts which are in the centre of the condenser. This will be the point where you find out why so many W124 condensers fail as the fan shroud will be full of all sorts of soggy leaf mulch etc - it's a real dirt trap and can only be bad for the radiator. Once it's all cleaned out and you've undone the last two nuts you can lift the shroud off and remove the little retaining clips from the inside without damaging them.

Reassembly is just the reverse procedure, start by bolting the fans to the new
condenser, then refit the shroud and push in the clips to secure it.

Replace the condenser and fix the two unions. The bottom one is most awkward and you may find it easier to disconnect it from the pump before you attach it to the condenser. Make sure you tighten the unions properly at this stage. If you have access to the tools it's worth pressure testing at this point whilst evertything is still easily accessible.

Once you are satisfied replace the trim which seals the area around the unions.

Replace the radiator, reconnect all the pipes and hoses, refill with fluids (you will lose about a cup full of auto transmission fluid and about 5 litres of anti freeze) then start the engine and check for any leaks.

Reattach the tray below the engine once you are satisfied there are no leaks

Don't switch the aircon on until you have had the system regassed.


Hopefully someone will find this useful

No pictures because it was a really dirty job and there was no-one around to

hold the camera.

Andy
 
Great write-up Andy, although I must confess it sounds as though you've had a right mare doing this on the W124 compared to when I replaced the condensor on my previous W202 as luckily I was able to do so without removing the radiator or headlight etc.

I would seriously consider replacing the receiver/drier unit also if your old condensor has had a large leak and has been like this for some time - shouldn't cost more than about £30/40 and is a very wise investment.

Do the unions have any O-ring seals in them?

Fingers crossed it'll be pumping ice-cold air for you once it's regassed, remember to make sure that whoever recharges it tops up the compressor oil level and also evacuates the system thoroughly :)

Well done for tackling an awkward job :bannana:

Will
 
I don't think that it's a W124 related thing i think it's that nearly every job on the 6 cylinder ones is the same - there's so little room under there and that makes everything tricky just because there's just no room to manoevre anything - if I'd had another couple of inches room between the rad and the front of the block I could have got the condenser out without removing the rad.

As for the headlight, again, I could have probably struggled by without removing it but the 5 bolts and a clip needed to remove it made life a lot easier when it came to connecting the bottom union on the condenser and getting the wires out which attached to the electric fans

No O rings, well not on the condenser unions as the pipes were all taper fit compression joints - it seems to be a pretty low pressure system anyway - I think it only runs at 2 or 3 PSI according to the stickers on everything.

I'll get it checked for pressure etc tomorrow then if need be I'll look at replacing the receiver unit

Andy
 
Seems like I had it easy then - as you say it must have been a bit of a squeeze with the straight six!

The receiver/drier will almost definately be ok pressure-wise, it's just that they are designed to remove moisture from this sealed system and there's a good chance it will be well past it's use by date and heavily saturated by now, especially as the system has been out of use/leaking. Any moisture in the system can cause serious damage!

While the system is currently as it is it would be the best time to fit it :)

Will
 
engine.jpg


a bit of a squeeze is an understatement :)

I may as well replace the drier whilst the system is empty so cheers for that

Andy
 
going to change the drier on Thursday - not quite as cheap as you guess Will coming in at £65 inc vat (dealer price was £75+vat)

There are some unions at that end of the pipes (on order from the dealers) so once all the bits are in place I'll post an idiots guide to fitting them.

First glance says it's another awkward job and that passenger side headlight is coming out again as the drier is sandwiched between the chassis, the headlight and underneath the ABS pump - gotta love these cars :)

Andy
 
changed the drier unit and had the system regassed - the car is now like a fridge :)

changing the drier was quite easy once the headlight was removed

there are two main feed piles and a couple of sensors to remove. Once they are disconnected then the drier unit itself is held in place with two 8mm bolts.

Reassembly is no big hassle, connect the steel pipe at the rear of the unit first then connect the front flexi union. Once they are in place bolt the unit down and refit the sensors.

Finally refit the headlight unit and indicator then you are good to go

Hope that helps someone

Andy
 
Glad it worked out Andy - good job jobbed - can't beat that air con :cool:

Will
 
Shude said:
You have shares in the manufacturer? ;)

I think he must have :)

As an aside, if anyone in my area (or surrounding) needs a regas the guy I used is really great, mobile service who actually turned up when he said he would, vacuumed the system, to clear any moisture, pressure tested it, then refilled (including oil) all for £40.

Around here that's a bargain, the other mobile guys are charging over £60 and Kwik Fit have a two week waiting list


Andy
 
Lol, nope! :o

If I did I'd tempt him to leave it thus causing more expensive damage ;) :D

Nice to know a job has been done properly though :)
 
Fantastic write up Andy, thanks for that. I'm hoping my dealer will pay for it to be done, but iof they will not pay the labour, it looks as if this post will be handy.......
 

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