How to stop auto w/out key....Pump rebuild

[Ellis]

I've had problems with my C220D '96 not stopping when turning off ignition, and then starting, stopping, re-starting and then running with no problems.

Rang a diesel specialist of good rep, place in Burscough, said he knew of the problem with Lucas pumps, probably start/stop solenoid, as Dieselman has previously said. Quoted between £450 and £650+Vat depending on amount of calibration etc, does this seem right.

Anyhoo, he said that eventually it either won't start anymore or it won't stop, so, if needs must how do I stop an auto without the ignition, battery, fuse etc. pls help.

If I need to do the pump plus costs for getting through MOT, plus costs when I got it I will have spent near what I paid for it, is it worth doing, the car isn't as economical as hoped and the performance is dire, (I thought the mpg would offset this Any thought from owners who have been in the same position.

 

[markheaney2]

i have run two of these as taxis and had the same problem on both it is the little plungers in the back of the pump that shut fuel off or let it in as for fuel economy it should do about 40 miles to a gallon if it isnt then they suffer from a fault where the inlet manifold blocks up with black crap this strangles the engine and it cant breath properly take the manifold off and clean it out

 

[bolide]

You stop a diesel by stalling it, cutting off the fuel supply or starving it of air

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

 

[Dieselman]

The fuel cutoff solenoid shouldn't be expensive and it just screws into the pump body, no callibration required.

£450 sounds a lot for a pump callibration, does this include removal and refitting? Still a lot.

 

[Ellis]

Diesel Pump

Is it possible to do maintenance on the "plungers" on the back of the pump without opening the pump up? Are these plungers part of the soleniod? If I change the soleniod are the plungers changed in the same unit?

Does the solenoid sit in the diesel flow, would some intensive Millers or Redex do anything to help the situation?

I've been told that the pump must be "cracked open" to install the new parts and this entails new seals etc, all prices I have quoted have been assumed to include all work regarding taking off pump, fixing it, and putting it back on the car.

Can anyone be more specific regarding stalling the car, e.g can I block the air inlet with a sock/rag if needs be or is it better to pull a fuse, any ideas?

Thanks