HOWTO: Replacing W124 Front Window Regulator (Saloon/Estate)

Discussion in 'Electronics' started by SilverSaloon, Dec 15, 2008.

  1. quenching

    quenching Active Member

    Messages:
    186
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2010
    Location:
    Ireland
    Car:
    '84 W201 2.0E, '91 W124 230TE estate

    Agreed, getting the window glass into the front rubber runner inside the door is vital, I replaced my regulator and motor today on the drivers door and it was this point on which I stumbled. After a bit of head scratching I had a quick search here and Silver Saloon's guide set me on the right path, so 6 years after the original post its still sorting out problems, many many thanks!!
     
  2. millo777

    millo777 MB Enthusiast

    Messages:
    1,231
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Location:
    Swansea, Dubai, Riyadh
    Car:
    1997 W140 S600L/2003 S211 320cdi
    I've just replaced the drivers side window regulator on my s124 today and thought I'd add to this thread rather than start another.

    I replaced the same regulator in 2011 with a part from the dealer, so the genuine MB part has only lasted 4 years. And that includes 3 years when I was living overseas and not in UK much, so I don't think the Genuine items last any longer than the aftermarket ones.

    The price from the dealer is now £190 which is double what I paid in 2011.

    I tried fitting a WAHR branded part from ECP, but it simply didnt fit. On comparison with the genuine MB part, the arm that fits to the hotizontal slider is not shaped properly, making it impossible to fit. Thats 3 hours I won't get back.

    The arftermarket part bought from an ebay seller called "Central Panels" was much better, but needed a bit of fiddling to get the three bolts on the main regulator body to fit to the door. I resorted to using a rat tail file to open up the lower hole very slightly.

    The springs on the regs are available seperately from the dealer for about £5. The part number is A0007680834, which may be useful if someone wants to speed up a tardy window without buying a new regulator.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
  3. optimusprime

    optimusprime MB Enthusiast

    Messages:
    3,255
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2013
    Location:
    Kidderminster Worcestershire UK
    Car:
    Mercedes W124 260E M103
    info

    This job i did the first week of ownership. Very good post . Only like to add one thing and that is, after you have the regulator out ,remove the door check strap and re grease it . It will keep it working right and save you taking off the door card again. The check strap is hard to lubricate without removing it from the door.
     
  4. jazzannew

    jazzannew New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2011
    Car:
    mercedes w124 cabrio
    sorry not figured out how to post thread !
    Mercedes w124 220 convertible 1994
    passenger side front window goes up and down easily but when it goes down to the bottom it makes a dut dut dut noise !!! could this be the regulator or just a micro switch malfunctioning ??? many thanks !!
    i know if the windows are'nt working properly the hood may not work !!
    fine just now when ive got the hardtop on but i'd better fix it before the summer !!!
    many thanks !!
     
  5. LCHutton

    LCHutton New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2015
    Location:
    near Philadelphia, PA, USA
    Car:
    1993 300E
    1993 300E
    The front passenger window would only go down a few inches so I kept trying the switch. After a few attempts, it wouldn't go back up. I think one of the guides had popped out of its track. Rather than replace the entire mechanism (motor/gearbox/pinion gear and scissor lift with large gear - is this called the regulator?) I would be happy to just close the window and reinstall the scissor lift to keep the window closed. Here is the problem:

    In order to get the scissor studs to line up with the holes in the inner door plate, the large gear must be in its proper location. I guessed that when the window is up, the spring would be relaxed. Closing the window would wind the spring so that the spring can help balance gravity when lifting to re-close the window. I also suspect that in the fully closed position, the gear is not on its very last tooth but a few teeth from one end.

    How and/or where do I position the the pinion gear on the large gear in order for the scissor studs to line up with the mounting holes?
     
  6. LCHutton

    LCHutton New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2015
    Location:
    near Philadelphia, PA, USA
    Car:
    1993 300E
    Update:
    I wasn't not doing what I had described. I was trying to install the regulator in the wrong position with tension on the spring but with the window in the up position.
    I corrected that error but still cannot get the three studs to line up with the holes in the inner door plate. I used tape (thanks SilverSaloon for that tip!) to keep the window up and aligned the motor with the full open wear marks on the gear but still cannot get the studs to line up properly.
    I recognize the instructions say to position the regulator first, with the window in the down position, but it appears my pinion gear does not rotate when I push the switch. It just makes a single click noise and then stops. I would like to avoid buying a new motor. Any suggestions?
     

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