I did grease the wiper mechanism on the W202 according to Howto but didn't managed to extract the cover, instead I removed the whole mechanism and it took just a few secs to release it, moreover I cleaned the accumulation of dusts under the cowl. I remember there is an alignment screw nearer the driver side. I may have misaligned it, now the intermittent wiper comes on even thought it not in intermittent position. What causes it to come on?
Intermittent wiper comes on when not in position
- Thread starter Dragon
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Hard to see how this would be an alignment problem? The motor must be receiving power, so possibly a switch malfunction coincedental to your maintenance of the wiper?
Do you have a rain sensor?
Do you have a rain sensor?
No, it a W202 1997
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A switch problem then. Try cleaning the contacts. I'm afraid I do not know how to access these.
Some one (probably Malcolm
) will be along shortly to advise.
Some one (probably Malcolm
) will be along shortly to advise.I have another problem, it not returning to home position sometimes after switching off since from new. What the likely causes? Someone told me it may be the brushes in the motor. I never bothered to look, just restart it again until it get home.
As whitenemesis has said it sounds like a switch issue. A bit more info would help;
In what position dose the intermittent come on?
When you switch wiper off at the stalk, where dose the blade park on the screen, is it the home position (park position) or else where, is it always the same place or dose it vary?
If you undone nuts 1 or 2 on the back of the mechanism, did you align the mechanism markings as described in the photos here?
Do the slow and fast speeds seem normal?
Dec
In what position dose the intermittent come on?
When you switch wiper off at the stalk, where dose the blade park on the screen, is it the home position (park position) or else where, is it always the same place or dose it vary?
If you undone nuts 1 or 2 on the back of the mechanism, did you align the mechanism markings as described in the photos here?
Do the slow and fast speeds seem normal?
Dec
Wiper stalk
You appear to have two separate faults that are unrelated.
1…The internal stalk switch mechanism is faulty or the “square” part, with the symbols, is damaged so that when you twist the stalk to 0 (off) you are actually turning it to position 1 (intermittent) Dose the little white arrow line up correctly with all the 4 settings i.e. 0 – l - ll –lll, ? Even if the do line up with the arrow there maybe damage inside the “square” part, with the symbols.
You will need to remove the stalk tip by levering and pulling off, there is a spring and a small plunger inside which will shoot out when you get it off.
Dec
You appear to have two separate faults that are unrelated.
1…The internal stalk switch mechanism is faulty or the “square” part, with the symbols, is damaged so that when you twist the stalk to 0 (off) you are actually turning it to position 1 (intermittent) Dose the little white arrow line up correctly with all the 4 settings i.e. 0 – l - ll –lll, ? Even if the do line up with the arrow there maybe damage inside the “square” part, with the symbols.
You will need to remove the stalk tip by levering and pulling off, there is a spring and a small plunger inside which will shoot out when you get it off.
Dec
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2…It may be that the worm drive has chewed up the nylon gear, this is the easiest thing to check first, remove the 7 torx bolts and lever upwards, uniformly, be careful you don’t damage the components under the lid, no need to remove motor or mechanism but disconnect motor plug (or wiring) first or else remove keys from ignition.
Check for signs of damage to;
The nylon gear teeth (nylon shavings present)
The worm drive.
The 3 switches and rails that the come in contact with, when the lid is put back on.
If the above are o.k. you will then need to remove the whole assembly and recheck the alignment marks, as in my previous link. If the alignment marks are correct then the only other explanation is that Nut 1 or Nut 2 are slipping or become loose, you will need to slacken off one or both nuts and reseat them and tighten up, making sure the alignment marks are correct.
Check also the condition of the ball joint plastic socket for signs of excessive wear, clean and regrease…important.
Its very unlikely there is any problem with the brushes.
Dec
recycled
MB Enthusiast
Does anyone know how to replace the combination switch ,or the relay. whichever one it is?
Last night the intermittent went on the blink. after i dismantled and sorted it, the washer went on the blink.
Now just the normal and fast wipe and the jet without the swipe is working.
When i push the side, water shoots out, but no wipe. so i have to move to position ii or iii to wipe.
Is this also an MOT failure?
Last night the intermittent went on the blink. after i dismantled and sorted it, the washer went on the blink.
Now just the normal and fast wipe and the jet without the swipe is working.
When i push the side, water shoots out, but no wipe. so i have to move to position ii or iii to wipe.
Is this also an MOT failure?
Bazzle
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Dieselman
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This isn't an MOT failure as the washer and wiper are working. There is no requirement for them to operate simultaneously.
This sounds like the stalk switch is faulty so try dismantling it again as shown.
Dieselman
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Inside the motor unit is a switch. This is the park switch which stops the wiper at the right place.
If the switch contacts are dodgy then the wiper will not keep going until the correct position after it is pulsed with a momentary 'Go' voltage by the relay.
As Dieselman recommends, this is a link to the switch inside the motor gearbox, check that the are clean, greased and undamaged. I would think that the problem is with the stalk but it is best to eliminate the motor from your inquiries first before you spend money on a new stalk.
There is a relay under the screwed down cover at the fuse box under bonnet however that usually is not the cause of the problem.
The airbag and steering wheel has to come off to replace the stalk, there is a link somewhere on how to do that, will post it if I can find it.
Dec
Edit; http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=44301&highlight=1994+C280+turn+signal%2Fwiper+issue
There is a relay under the screwed down cover at the fuse box under bonnet however that usually is not the cause of the problem.
The airbag and steering wheel has to come off to replace the stalk, there is a link somewhere on how to do that, will post it if I can find it.
Dec
Edit; http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=44301&highlight=1994+C280+turn+signal%2Fwiper+issue
Last edited:
altreed
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Hi Dragon,
Very recently I have had a couple of weird intermittant faults on my c36. One was the driver electric window not working correctly and the other was the unprovoked intermittant wipe.
Please let me know if you fix your wipe problem as I am certain that I have a similar problem. I'd rather not try to fix myself until I know what fixes it.
Good luck
Dave
Very recently I have had a couple of weird intermittant faults on my c36. One was the driver electric window not working correctly and the other was the unprovoked intermittant wipe.
Please let me know if you fix your wipe problem as I am certain that I have a similar problem. I'd rather not try to fix myself until I know what fixes it.
Good luck
Dave
Take a look at page 1, post #8 of this thread. This is for a W202 I was suggesting that your car might have a similar stalk, dose it? Is there a “cap” at the tip of the stalk on yours? If so then it will be SIMILAR to the one in the picture and work in much the same way.
To remove the end of the stalk, you will need a good thumb grip, putting a piece of rubber over the end “cap” of the stalk will greatly improve your grip and stop your thumb from slipping.
(An old vacuum cleaner bag usually has a piece of thin rubber glued into the bag for sealing,)
Turn the ignition off first, then twist the stalk to the highest wiper speed setting, the reason for this, is that if you do scar the plastic, it will be somewhat hidden from view in this position.
Wrestle the end “cap” from the rest of the wiper section of the switch, perseverance and patience are required. Don’t use any gripping tools. The blunt side of a knife wrapped in a cloth can be used as a lever VERY, VERY CAREFULY, it is very easy to scar the soft plastic with the knife.
When you get the stalk end cap off, a plunger and a spring will shoot out, the are big enough to find if you lose sight of them.
Check the condition of the switch, particularly the underside for any signs of burning and in your case, the spring in the plunger and the two contacts at the end of the stalk that the plunger contacts with.
Use the peg, if you have one like in picture, to run the wipers, this may give some idea as to why the pump is not working. In its dismantled state, you will have to press the metal part of the plunger by hand, to the two end contacts to test the pump.
Flush out any openings you can find on the switch mechanism with switch cleaner, mop up and reassemble.
Avoid getting any chemicals on any vinyl on the dash and in particular the white paint markings/symbols of the stalk, switch cleaner could dissolve/smear the markings.
I am working on the assumption that your stalk is similar to the one in pictures here and in Page 1 –post #8
Dec
To remove the end of the stalk, you will need a good thumb grip, putting a piece of rubber over the end “cap” of the stalk will greatly improve your grip and stop your thumb from slipping.
(An old vacuum cleaner bag usually has a piece of thin rubber glued into the bag for sealing,)
Turn the ignition off first, then twist the stalk to the highest wiper speed setting, the reason for this, is that if you do scar the plastic, it will be somewhat hidden from view in this position.
Wrestle the end “cap” from the rest of the wiper section of the switch, perseverance and patience are required. Don’t use any gripping tools. The blunt side of a knife wrapped in a cloth can be used as a lever VERY, VERY CAREFULY, it is very easy to scar the soft plastic with the knife.
When you get the stalk end cap off, a plunger and a spring will shoot out, the are big enough to find if you lose sight of them.
Check the condition of the switch, particularly the underside for any signs of burning and in your case, the spring in the plunger and the two contacts at the end of the stalk that the plunger contacts with.
Use the peg, if you have one like in picture, to run the wipers, this may give some idea as to why the pump is not working. In its dismantled state, you will have to press the metal part of the plunger by hand, to the two end contacts to test the pump.
Flush out any openings you can find on the switch mechanism with switch cleaner, mop up and reassemble.
Avoid getting any chemicals on any vinyl on the dash and in particular the white paint markings/symbols of the stalk, switch cleaner could dissolve/smear the markings.
I am working on the assumption that your stalk is similar to the one in pictures here and in Page 1 –post #8
Dec
Attachments
Diesel Benz
MB Enthusiast
I assume they don't scratch it, that is they don't open it at all but replace the whole stalk with a new one?
Desel Benz has answered your second question.
There is no easy way that I can figure, the problem is the end cap is so short that you can’t get a proper grip.
A piece of rubber, like a bit of bicycle tube rubber over the end cap will increase your grip as your finger / thumb won’t slip as much if the rubber is dry.
Failing that you could try winding around the end cap, TIGHTLEY a very, very large amount of sellow tape (spelling?) which will increase its bulk and so improve your grip.
I used the back of a knife with a cloth over it to protect the plastic, turn switch to position lll, that way any damage you might do will not be so apparent BUT you must be very careful with the knife most of the work must be done with your finger and thumb the knife, plays a very small part.
Dec
There is no easy way that I can figure, the problem is the end cap is so short that you can’t get a proper grip.
A piece of rubber, like a bit of bicycle tube rubber over the end cap will increase your grip as your finger / thumb won’t slip as much if the rubber is dry.
Failing that you could try winding around the end cap, TIGHTLEY a very, very large amount of sellow tape (spelling?) which will increase its bulk and so improve your grip.
I used the back of a knife with a cloth over it to protect the plastic, turn switch to position lll, that way any damage you might do will not be so apparent BUT you must be very careful with the knife most of the work must be done with your finger and thumb the knife, plays a very small part.
Dec
