Is this the start of the W204 ignition issue?

[MancMike]

Well it's happened...

I sat there repeatedly putting my key in and out and listening to the tone of the lock and release.

It was inconsistent, sometimes fast, sometimes slightly more sluggish. It then failed to operate and I've not been able to get it to work again no matter how many times I've tried.

Luckily my car is the first in the drive, so my Mrs car can still get off the drive as I'm not blocking it in.

I'm going to follow the guide and attempt a DIY tomorrow. I don't have a new motor, but I don't see how it can be failing other than dirty contacts and or brushes. I'm hoping to be able to "recondition" the existing motor as a test. If I get it going again with a cleaned motor then I'll order the replacement.

So far, I've took out the instrument binnacle, steering cowling and disconnected the battery. I've got to wait half an hour anyway to make sure the car is flat before I could touch the air bag and I've got additional tools to dig out so will leave it until tomorrow now.

 

[MancMike]

So I've got the airbag off, that was a doddle. Now I'm trying to tackle the massive 10mm Allen bolt that holds the wheel on. I've got a huge Allen key but need to get a pipe over it for extra leverage. An impact wrench would be perfect for this, but I don't have one at the minute.

 

[MancMike]

Done. I've got the module out. Luckily it failed in the open position otherwise you wouldn't be able to remove it from the car as there's a spring loaded bolt that can't withdraw while in any state other than fully unlocked.

There's no hope for the motor, it's totally goosed. You can feel it all jammy and broken inside wheels rotating the shaft.

I've got a replacement on the way.

So luckily for me it's a £18 fix not circa 100x that!

 

[MancMike]

Inside the motor is a mess. It's clearly been getting coked up which has increased the resistance, causing heat build up. It smells like there's been a little fire in there!

 

[190]

Well done for having a go at this.

 

[MancMike]

It lives!

£18, ain't half bad.

 

[Stardelta]

Have you done it?

 

[MancMike]

Yep, car is good as new.

I got lucky with t failing in the open position. Now I've seen it, I wouldn't advise anyone wait and risk it. As you're screwed if it fails in the locked position.

 

[190]

Besides savings a large sum of money you have given others the confidence to tackle this should the need arise. Pity MB or even the indies won't do what you've done.

From your experience of having seen the lock open are there any other issues like lack of lubrication or was it just the crappy motor.

 

[MancMike]

Thanks, I'm very pleased I did it myself. I had very little to lose, it'd have had to have been lifted off my drive and recovered otherwise.

Some thoughts / tips;


The grease was slightly dry which maybe put extra load on the motor. I cleaned and replaced it. Don't use oil as it could foul the tiny micro switches that sense the position of the lock. They've got little rubber boots on so are clearly delicate.

The new motor wasn't indentical, there were slight differences, but none that would affect its operation.

To open the unit, there's rolled pins that are difficult to remove without the right tool. I didn't have one but a small torx screwdriver works if you tap it in and rotate it out.

Make sure you've a good picture of the inside of the unit to know how to reassemble the little levers and arms.

That plastic cog is metal underneath, it's pretty heavy duty. There was no wear on any of the white nylon teeth.

Don't freak out if you pull the steering column out too far and it's no longer connected to the wheels, the splined shaft that slides into it is inside the rubber gator in the driver's footwell. If I was to do it again I'd just take the whole shaft out rather than try to remove the module from the steering column while deep in the dash.

Ignore my comment above about being screwed if it failed in the locked position, you're not. Just remove the whole column. If yours failed in the locked position, removing the whole column is your only option. You could dismantle the module from the back and free it from the column. I don't know, but in your case I'd reassemble in the locked position too. You'll have to put it back on the column first to assemble in the locked position.

I also cleaned the nickel plated contacts on the PCB that slide into the new motor, just to remove an resistance caused by the carbonisation from the previous motor.

 

[Stardelta]

That's really great that you've done it, did you take any photos, if so any chance of a step by step how to write up?

 

[moonloops]

Hi, all

Moonloops: yours sounds interesting as it sounds like a flat battery symptoms, but that's obviously ruled out if it later started without a problem.

Auto-Mobile: I lost my second key. Do you think the key could be as at fault as the car? As it's worked perfectly ever since.

I suppose I'm being stupid, but there's no chance of the steering lock engaging while driving is there?

Mine was engine ECU relay. Autoclass in Milton Keynes sorted it out while I waited, top service as usual from them..

 

[Auto-mobile]

That's a job well done, usually it costs between £450-650 depending if it needs cutting off the column or not, was it a Bosch motor? Where did you get it from?

 

[vijilants]

Well Done....I paid £200 earlier this year to have the motor replaced by a mobile service at my home....

See thread.....http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/engine/135963-w204-steering-lock-mechanical-fault-diagnosed-4.html

 

[markaz]

Well done mate - how old is your W204 and what mileage please?

 

[MancMike]

It's a 57, registered in Feb 08 and it's currently at 103,000.

 

[markaz]

Does anyone know if they improved the part. Mine is 2010 thanks

 

[190]

Here's a post from someone who fixes them that suggests you might be OK. I notice that the guys own website is not so specific.

About: W204/W212 Steering lock issue. Symptoms and solutions - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

 

[MancMike]

Wow, so it cost that guy £999. I got very lucky then it seems.

Even if yours has the same motor, your car is younger so it might not fail in your ownership anyway.

You can tell it's on its way out of you repeatedly put the key in and out (not too many times!) and the sound of the motor is inconsistent. That's the carbon brushes worn out.

 

[tifomb]

I had the ESL fail last year Feb 2017, had to get a replacement, got it reprogrammed and 2 days ago this one has failed .... same symptoms as before. But the unit has a 'lifetime' warranty so will need to send it back to repairer but need to take ignition barrel out, and everyone i ask wants a ton of money to take it out, ESL is already out as wasn't fitted to the steering column last year, just in case it happened again and which it did !!