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ML 270 inlet manifold

Nice write up and pics.

You close to Manchester and fancy doin mine lol
 
Jane270ML said:
Brilliant job, well done. Not wanting to overload you, read this... Inlet port shut off motor delete (CDI2) - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums ... so you don't get an error code.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll be happier when all is up and running again.

I'm planning to use the existing motor again to do the double bluff. It seems to be working fine and with no more dirty oil in the vicinity I'm hoping it will hold up.

Having pulled the wheel arch off I can now see that it is accessible from below in the event of a malfunction, but fingers crossed.

Thanks for the link.
 
jay1983 said:
Nice write up and pics. You close to Manchester and fancy doin mine lol
Click to expand...

Based in Co Down I'm afraid and don't you would want me it take as long as I'm taking with this one!! The ml is my winter ride so is off the road at present until the threat of snow turns up, just doing this on available Saturdays but hope to have it up and ready for mot in a couple of weeks. Also need to check brakes, get a slow puncture repaired and might tackle a rear arch that's starting to show a few rusty bubbles.

If I had time I would happily do this every day.
 
Hi, this blog has pointed me in the direction and all I need do now is get started, I am a handy enough diy'er but need to identify the bits that have to be removed to get access to the manifold, its a 2003 ML 270 with 116k on the clock. Just replaced the speed sensor last week which started me off on Ml drives very well but for NCT it need to be done, I am based in Wicklow.
 
Hi, I have read all the posts on this manifold repair. I would like to get a step by step list of what items have to be removed for access, I can identify the fuel pump and thermostat but I do not know the function of the other bits that have to be removed or identify them when named in the various blogs. It wold be really helpful if advise could be given to identify the actual item in the engine and how to remove it and what to drain if required, eg I saw mention of power steering resevoir - question is what item is this in the engine, does it need to be drained, is filling a problem later, The other issue is when I ( hopefully ) strip the manifold out and plug the holes should I leave the stepper motor connected, it still works in my ML, also the modification for the EGR, should I attempt this or just clean and re-install it. The treads are really helpful and maybe when I start it will become self explanatory,
undo the bolts holding on the heater rail ( where is this ) - thermostat needs to be removed ( ok )- oil filter, ( ( cap only ? )thermostat and fuel filter - EGR cooler ( where is this ) - EGR cooler ( where ), fuel filter, coolant to fuel heater ( where ) and power steering reservoir ( where and implications for draining ) need to come off. Hopefully the high pressure rail can remain intact? ( is this so ) Any help would be fantastic, If I could identify the item that need to be removed and how to remove them, then I reckon I would tackle this job, Thanks Ardveen
 
Ardveen1 said:
Hi, I have read all the posts on this manifold repair. I would like to get a step by step list of what items have to be removed for access, I can identify the fuel pump and thermostat but I do not know the function of the other bits that have to be removed or identify them when named in the various blogs. It wold be really helpful if advise could be given to identify the actual item in the engine and how to remove it and what to drain if required, eg I saw mention of power steering resevoir - question is what item is this in the engine, does it need to be drained, is filling a problem later, The other issue is when I ( hopefully ) strip the manifold out and plug the holes should I leave the stepper motor connected, it still works in my ML, also the modification for the EGR, should I attempt this or just clean and re-install it. The treads are really helpful and maybe when I start it will become self explanatory,
undo the bolts holding on the heater rail ( where is this ) - thermostat needs to be removed ( ok )- oil filter, ( ( cap only ? )thermostat and fuel filter - EGR cooler ( where is this ) - EGR cooler ( where ), fuel filter, coolant to fuel heater ( where ) and power steering reservoir ( where and implications for draining ) need to come off. Hopefully the high pressure rail can remain intact? ( is this so ) Any help would be fantastic, If I could identify the item that need to be removed and how to remove them, then I reckon I would tackle this job, Thanks Ardveen
Click to expand...

Hi, I don't mean any offence, please take this purely as advise!
Considering the questions you have asked it doesn't sound like a job you should attempt yourself! Take it to a mechanic!
 
jamesfuller said:
Hi, I don't mean any offence, please take this purely as advise!
Considering the questions you have asked it doesn't sound like a job you should attempt yourself! Take it to a mechanic!
Click to expand...

+1
That was my thoughts also......... definitely not a job for the faint hearted, took me 6 hours, and that was with me knowing what I was doing (well, sort of!)
 
Hi, My ML 270 is down on boost, big time, it is throwing the M55 error code and will not rev past 3000 rpm. I replaced the fuel filter and mass air flow but to no avail. Both CATs were previously removed so I had to bite the bullet and tackle the intake manifold, with some concern given the posts I have read. I am now in the process of doing the air intake manifold on my W163 Ml270 CDI. I purchased a used good condition manifold and have fitted it. My query is the electrical wire going through the first split between the mainfold, the one on the front / radiator side. The electrical conduit that travels down this gap and then separates into 2 wires and 2 connectors beneath the manifold, one connector is attached to the water cooled alternator but my problem is the other wire, I cannot remember where I removed the other connector block from and I cannot locate anything in the area into which it plugs. Any help would be appreciated. All I have left to do is refit the thermostat and power steering resevoir. Add water and power steering fluid, then say a prayer that I have no water or diesel leaks...and obviously that the manifold / stepper motor is working. Any ideas on this wsire please ?.
By the way the manifold I bought was from an ML 270 and looked identical but I had problems sliding it in to place. The old one slipped in no problem but the replacement was a b***h to fit, but eventually popped into place. I took pictures as I went along but removed this connector without a photo. Hope somebody can help, Thanks
 
Now my trans is working like it should this i think will be my next challange, so good post!. Plus i want to remove the slatted sun roof and fit a removeable alloy pannel, unless i can get it work but dont think thats going to happen.
 
Evening all, got the job finished tonight and located the connector block for the second wire, its mounted on the side of the sump of the engine. All connected up and jeep started after a few attempts. I kept the fuel filter on and just disconnected the feed from the tank to allow me swing the filter over and out of the way so no real air locking problems. I did loose a bit of power steering fluid and had to top it up a few times to get to the top marker level. A bit of whining going on whejn level was low. All worked out well with no diesel or water leaks on re-connection. Happy days. The one big moment of concern was after coming back from a test drive to retop the power steering fluid the engine tone changed completely, like the exhaust came off with no power at all, barely able to limp along. The problem on inspection was the big hose from the EGR on the lower side was not properly tightened, if fact this clamp was overlooked and the pressure blew the pipe off, I reconnected it, tightened it and tested again. All is aok now, jeep going like a train, touch wood, All I have to do now is try and get my hands properly clean, I think dipping them in acid is required. I am delighted this worked out and I dodged the indie's quote of €2k for a new replacement including fitting. I will post up the steps I took in case someone else needs help. I found the forum a great source of help on this and lots of other repairs I have completed. Off to the pub now to dip my hands in beer !
 
Well done ArdVeen,
A detailed write up would be great if you can be bothered. I haven't had to tackle this on mine YET! but i'm sure it will at some point. I'm pretty handy and have done all sorts to the ML so far and feel confident I can do it myself (albeit over a large number of hours by the sounds of it) but like you , having read all sorts of different posts some of the detail is missing. I have read contradictory mentions of removing the fuel rail or not, and i'm still not sure whether that needs to be removed or not?
Like you I would like to know what bits need to be removed and drained, and which bits can be just loosened and relocated out of the way. do you have to remove the thermostat? already done that and bust my fuel line a while ago in the process!!
Thanks for resurrecting the thread and well done again.
Moz
 
ML 270 Air Intake

Yep, I was in the same boat and figured a write-up would be helpful, which I will get around to.

The fuel rail can stay in place, also the expansion vessel. I removed the thermostat. the fuel lines are a bit of a pain but thankfully they did not snap, particularly the tee piece. The link pipe on the bottom of the thermostat to the engine block is just a press in and a bit fiddly to line up as the thermostat is being pushed into place but again not that difficult, I was a bit concerned about it sealing but no issues there at all.

I was happy with the job and would go at it again, I may have to as the intake manifold was a very good condition used one and I left the swirl flaps / stepper motor in place and reconnected. I sure they will start passing oil at some point. My issue was more the stepper motor packing up / link bar seized and ripped the teeth of the motor I figure. In hindsight I could have unplugged the wire from the motor and wired across a resistor which I reckon would have restored the 'boost' which was missing.
 
An update, about a month after resolving the boost / air intake manifold issue it re-occured. The very same as before, the ML was way down on power. I figured the second hand manifold, which looked very good was the issue again. I plugged in my icarsoft i980 scanner and got the M55 error code. Rather than a complete strip down again I just removed the passenger side wheel arch liner and examined the underside of the manifold, the link bar between the stepper motor and the swirl flap rail had detached at the motor, this is a bad design and it had come apart on me while examining the intake manifold before fitting. Anyway I decided to get thing going easily I would bypasss the stepper motor and leave the manifold in place. I reattached the lever to the motor. I got a 4.7k resistor in Malpins and a packet of male mini spade plugs. I connected the resistor to a plug on either end and soldered the joint, I also ran some solder on the connector blade as it was loose in the car's stepper motor wiring block. I removed the wiring block from the stepper motor, on the bottom left side, a bit fiddly to remove but it will come out, access restricted but enough to catch the wiring block. The wiring can then be fed down beside the starter motor for easier handling. I plugged the bypass ( resistor and spade connectors ) into the black/red block terminal and the other end into the grey one. I then fitted a neat plastic box over the wiring block and ran insulating tape around it, then cable tied it to the adjacent metal bracket. It worked a treat and the jeep is back to full power and nothing noticable at all in terms of the swirl flaps being redundant. The flaps are on a spring rail and they generally remain open I figure until the motor closes them. Anyway it was a very straightforward and successful job. I will get back at some point and reinstall my old manifold with the holes bolted up. The flaps in the second hand manifold were in good condition so there is no major urgency in the job. Anyway the easy fix is just the bypass from the underside I found.
 
Broken flaps on intake manifold E270 CDI

Ardveen1 Hi, I have a 2004 E270 cdi. I took the car to the dealership and after inspection they figured that a new intake manifold has to be ordered which is $1000 part due to broken flaps. The car runs perfectly fine (great pick up etc.) except some moisture coming out of from broken flaps. I am in Pakistan and getting parts for a diesel Merc is an issue. I have read on the forums that flaps can be removed and holes then can be bolted to permanently seal them. Once you do that do i have to reprogram through star diagnosis so it doesn't throw error code of flaps?
What parts do i require to get the job done as i am not an expert and would require services of an experienced mechanic. Before taking the car to mechanic i just want to be sure that i have complete inventory of items needed to take this on.
Can you recommend or let me know how much would it cost to order a new intake manifold from UK? Thanks Azeem
 
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