New oil, made a real difference!

[andy_k]

Has anyone ever checked the contents of their filter and actually found any bits in it.?

only when I snapped a crankshaft in my old Veedub engine - there were bits everywhere including the filter

 

[GuyFawkes]

Fair point - I had my BS filter on high when I read it.


That's comparing apples and oranges (different weights) what would be interesting is some studies on comparable synth/semi/mineral oils.

No, it isn't.

One is what MB say I should run in my engine, the other is what I do run in my engine.

 

[GuyFawkes]

That's comparing apples and oranges (different weights) what would be interesting is some studies on comparable synth/semi/mineral oils.

Correct it not in the same league

Regards *** Tuning[/quote]


I'm frightened (I shouldn't be) but not surprised (I should be) that someone re-mapping ECU's is so ignorant about lubrication.

 

[GuyFawkes]

Not really as you don't explain why.

All oils with a wide viscosity range use polymer additives which suffer more shearing the wider the range is, which is why it's better to stick to a narrower range than a super wide one, but as stevesky says you aren't comparing apples with apples.
Obviously a heavier weight oil has better protection under pressure, but that's not the issue here if the same weight oils are used.

I've always advocated using a 40 weight oil over a 30 weight one for reducing wear.

Something interests me though, why do manufacturers advise/specify synth/semi oils for their engines if mineral provide better protection.?

There is some school of thought that says a full flow filter isn't worth fitting at all due to the hole size being so large. Fiat didn't fit them at all for many years for that reason.

Has anyone ever checked the contents of their filter and actually found any bits in it.?

1/ I sent you a PM to a 12mb pdf that does explain why in great details and in fairly non technical language.

2/ I am comparing apples to apples, one oil is recommended for my engine, the other is what is in it, in any event 0W30 and 15W40 are almost identical with respect to the viscocity enhancer spread.

3/ The higher shear forces in a 0W30 in any given engine contribute significantly to killing said viscocity enhancers pronto.

4/ Why does Hoover recommend Aerial for their washing machines? Do you really think Lidl own brand is that different?

5/ putting a neodymium magnet in the filter is an increasingly popular trick, as well as fishing in the old oil with a magnet. Only picks up ferrous though, not white metal bearing material....

 

[stevesey]

No, it isn't.

One is what MB say I should run in my engine, the other is what I do run in my engine.

So MB recommend 0W30 for a 1986 300D - perhaps for winter in Canada/Alaska - but Devon?

DM/GF what do your respective manuals say on the matter.

 

[GuyFawkes]

So MB recommend 0W30 for a 1986 300D - perhaps for winter in Canada/Alaska - but Devon?

DM/GF what do your respective manuals say on the matter.

Haynes says 10/40 to 15/50 API SG/CD

Local MB agent tried to sell me 0w30 and some other expensive cack for the tranny.

I had trade tub of 15w40 but went to factors and bought dextron3 for the tanny at a quarter the price.

 

[wemorgan]

I had trade tub of 15w40 but went to factors and bought dextron3 for the tanny at a quarter the price.

Are you planning on sticking to the manufacture's recommended service interval (12000miles?) or since the 15w40 is so much cheaper than the 0w30 will you be changing it more frequently?

I used to have an Audi A2 diesel in which the manufacture said the 0w30 oil could be changed as infrequently as 30,000 miles. I was rather sceptical that these long service intervals were more due to minimising leasing costs than giving longevity to the engine.

 

[stevesey]

Haynes says 10/40 to 15/50 API SG/CD

Local MB agent tried to sell me 0w30 and some other expensive cack for the tranny.

I had trade tub of 15w40 but went to factors and bought dextron3 for the tanny at a quarter the price.

Expensive cack basically = MB DexronIII (lots of discussion about whose brand it is and special MB additives on various forums, but basically DIII, or DII if you get the older spec). If it was that cheap I assume you weren't buying 1L containers.

I know we don't miss many opportunities to slag off dealers - but they really suggested 0W30 for an '86 300D?

 

[GuyFawkes]

Are you planning on sticking to the manufacture's recommended service interval (12000miles?) or since the 15w40 is so much cheaper than the 0w30 will you be changing it more frequently?

I used to have an Audi A2 diesel in which the manufacture said the 0w30 oil could be changed as infrequently as 30,000 miles. I was rather sceptical that these long service intervals were more due to minimising leasing costs than giving longevity to the engine.

I'm fortunate, my oil usually ends up effectively being free, in any event I'd change oil on condition, not time or mileage, and "old" oil gets used as fuel in some of my other stuff (just seep it through some bentonite) and you also have to factor this being a new to me engine in a state of (very) benign neglect so I will do an oil (and filter) change every month for three months just to flush / clean the system without actually doing a flush, then back to usual practice and change as and when needed.

 

[GuyFawkes]

Expensive cack basically = MB DexronIII (lots of discussion about whose brand it is and special MB additives on various forums, but basically DIII, or DII if you get the older spec). If it was that cheap I assume you weren't buying 1L containers.

I know we don't miss many opportunities to slag off dealers - but they really suggested 0W30 for an '86 300D?

Yup, they really did...

All I really wanted was the tranny filter screen and gasket and a spare sump drail plug and seal (was gonna butcher one with a neo magnet) but they didn't have wot.... so changed both for now through the dipsticks.. old edwards vacuum pump made easy work of that too.

I wasn't surprised, a few weeks ago Partco UTTERLY failed to work out what oil and fuel filters I needed for a BMC 2.2

"what's that fit then" they say

"Oh, only one of the more common english diesel engines ever made, as fitted to london taxis / boats / post office vans / gen sets..."

"Yeah, but what model and year of car was it so I can look on the computer?"

"screw that, it's been 20 years and I don't even pretend to be a parts guy, but gimme a CAV 296 and a Fram 836 or equivalent"

"what car do they fit?"

 

[Dieselman]

1/ I sent you a PM to a 12mb pdf that does explain why in great details and in fairly non technical language.

I'm 2/3rds of the way through reading it..but going to bed now. There's nothing there I didn't already know but it goes into more depth than normal and I like to read every word so it's taking a while..

2/ I am comparing apples to apples, one oil is recommended for my engine, the other is what is in it, in any event 0W30 and 15W40 are almost identical with respect to the viscocity enhancer spread.

Your engine should use 10W-40 or 15w-40. The new lower viscosity oils are for reducing fuel consumption in newer engines.
If you check you'll see I've always advised against this practice and that of having a wide viscosity range for exactly the reason you state. A lower viscosity provides less protection and polymers do break down eventually.

3/ The higher shear forces in a 0W30 in any given engine contribute significantly to killing said viscocity enhancers pronto.

 

[Dieselman]

Are you planning on sticking to the manufacture's recommended service interval (12000miles?) or since the 15w40 is so much cheaper than the 0w30 will you be changing it more frequently?

The recomended interval is 6k miles on GF's car, but bear in mind that was from the days of higher polutant fuels and less robust oils.

I used to have an Audi A2 diesel in which the manufacture said the 0w30 oil could be changed as infrequently as 30,000 miles. I was rather sceptical that these long service intervals were more due to minimising leasing costs than giving longevity to the engine.

That's a different issue, the long drain is to reduce servicing costs but to achieve that a thinner oil is needed to allow for thickening during the fill time.
Initially hte oil is too thin to provide good protection then it thickens with polutants which act as wear particles.

All in a bad idea.

 

[wemorgan]

That's a different issue, the long drain is to reduce servicing costs but to achieve that a thinner oil is needed to allow for thickening during the fill time.
Initially hte oil is too thin to provide good protection then it thickens with polutants which act as wear particles.

I changed the oil myself after 10k miles, as for the relative low cost it seemed a no-brainier.....who knows the owner that then takes it over 100k might actually thank me.