Quote for Discs and Pad replacement
- Thread starter db1
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mercmanuk
MB Enthusiast
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- C180 AVANTGARDE SE SPORT GONE AND MISSED LANDROVER FREELANDER 2 LET IT SNOW LET IT SNOW LET IT SNOW
how much
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecommerce/CarModels.asp?P=Parts
try europarts
front discs 50 each
front pads 40 each
180 total
a good mechanic to fit them 2 hours 60
240 fitted and remember euro parts supply genuine mercedes benz pads and discs
why do we buy mercedes benz and allow ourselves to be conned with these extortionate servicing costs??
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecommerce/CarModels.asp?P=Parts
try europarts
front discs 50 each
front pads 40 each
180 total
a good mechanic to fit them 2 hours 60
240 fitted and remember euro parts supply genuine mercedes benz pads and discs
why do we buy mercedes benz and allow ourselves to be conned with these extortionate servicing costs??
andy_k
MB Enthusiast
it's not a big job to do yourself. That way, you get the satisfaction of knowing how well the work has been done and that no corners have been cut 
don't forget you MUST replace the caliper bolts as well - they don't cost much but are a "single use" bolt.
Check the dealers prices for the disks as well, £120 a pair from ECP seems slightly on the expensive side
Andy
don't forget you MUST replace the caliper bolts as well - they don't cost much but are a "single use" bolt.
Check the dealers prices for the disks as well, £120 a pair from ECP seems slightly on the expensive side
Andy
Last edited:
Thanks for the input: Looking at ECP I get a parts total of:
£335 for 2x Front & Rear Discs and Pads (Bosch and Genuine)
Gives around £330 for fitting both front and rears.
I agree - I would love to do it myself, however I have no experience nor tools nor much time, so I guess I am at the mercy of a good garage or Merc dealer. Having said that, given that they are brakes it needs to be done completely to spec - given I take my kids in the car there is NO room for error...
Take care
DB1
£335 for 2x Front & Rear Discs and Pads (Bosch and Genuine)
Gives around £330 for fitting both front and rears.
I agree - I would love to do it myself, however I have no experience nor tools nor much time, so I guess I am at the mercy of a good garage or Merc dealer. Having said that, given that they are brakes it needs to be done completely to spec - given I take my kids in the car there is NO room for error...
Take care
DB1
nictry
Active Member
I don't know whether you have tried but may be worth giving the dreaded Kwik-fit a call, I know ages ago I needed discs and pads and rung around and was gobsmacked that Kwikfit only worked out about £60 to do the fitting on top of the price I could pick up the parts for (this was on a vauxhall but may be worth checking?)
mercmanuk
MB Enthusiast
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- C180 AVANTGARDE SE SPORT GONE AND MISSED LANDROVER FREELANDER 2 LET IT SNOW LET IT SNOW LET IT SNOW
i'm sure someone can recommend a good mechanic in your area?
grober
MB Master
Brake Dust Hazard
If you do the brakes yourself dont forget to get some high temperature brake grease- the merc stuff is best and new wear sensor leads-not too expensive. Some brake cleaner to remove brake dust is useful also. REMEMBER also to WEAR A GOOD QUALITY FACE MASK to avoid breathing in any BRAKE DUST
Although most MB suppliers pads no longer contain asbestos fine dust in any form constitutes a health risk if inhaled. Once it goes into your lungs it doesnt come out period. I like this forum a lot, good bunch of friendly people. but I think we should recognise the hazards of DIY as well as the undoubted economic advantages and pleasure of a well maintained vehicle. this is especially important for the inexperienced "newbie" Maybe a "sticky" detailing the main hazards would be a good idea. I dont want to spoil people's fun just get them to work safe.
If you do the brakes yourself dont forget to get some high temperature brake grease- the merc stuff is best and new wear sensor leads-not too expensive. Some brake cleaner to remove brake dust is useful also. REMEMBER also to WEAR A GOOD QUALITY FACE MASK to avoid breathing in any BRAKE DUST
Although most MB suppliers pads no longer contain asbestos fine dust in any form constitutes a health risk if inhaled. Once it goes into your lungs it doesnt come out period. I like this forum a lot, good bunch of friendly people. but I think we should recognise the hazards of DIY as well as the undoubted economic advantages and pleasure of a well maintained vehicle. this is especially important for the inexperienced "newbie" Maybe a "sticky" detailing the main hazards would be a good idea. I dont want to spoil people's fun just get them to work safe.Good idea to be safety conscious when doing any work on your vehicle, and yes, obviously avoid deliberately inhaling brake dust.
However, can brake dust be that deadly these days? After all, think how much you must breath in when driving along any busy road with your windows open? Millions of cars in use, so surely there would be a significant amount that is inhalled?
Just food for thought...
Will
However, can brake dust be that deadly these days? After all, think how much you must breath in when driving along any busy road with your windows open? Millions of cars in use, so surely there would be a significant amount that is inhalled?
Just food for thought...
Will
Dieselman
Banned
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- 34,198
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- Peugeot 403 Convertible
grober said:
Can you qualify this.
The human body is very good at ejecting foreign bodies. Dust in the lungs is ejected by coughing.
grober
MB Master
Respirable dust
This a good explanation of asbestosis from a medical school site in the states. "When people inhale air, it always contains small particles. These particles have to be filtered out because the lungs need to remain sterile. The nose and the bronchi (the airways leading down to the lungs) are the main air filters for the lungs. Asbestos particles (called amphiboles) are long, extremely thin, microscopic glass-like fibers that are not filtered by the nose or the bronchi because they are so thin and light. Asbestosis development starts when a person inhales an amphibole. This particle travels deep into the lungs to one of the 300 million gas exchanging structures called an alveolus. Each alveolus has many cleaning cells called macrophages that eat up any particles that made it down to the alveoli. Unfortunately the macrophages can not eat the amphibole because it is too long, but they still try. In trying to eat this particle the macrophage essentially cuts itself open and the digestive molecules that were contained inside the macrophage have now spilled on the alveolus. These molecules injure the alveolus and cause it to form a scar. This scarring formation is called fibrosis. The same amphibole that could not be eaten attracts other macrophages from neighboring areas. They try to eat the particle and also fail, and this further damages the lungs. In reality, people who are exposed to asbestos inhale hundreds and thousands of amphiboles, which causes large-scale injury. Such large-scale injury is when major lung damage (fibrosis) develops and is named "Asbestosis" after the disease-causing particle. Asbestosis is found in people who are chronically exposed to asbestos material. Those who are at the highest risk are the people who directly handle asbestos material at their job. This group includes vehicle mechanics, construction workers, shipyard workers, electricians and other workers in the building trades".
While asbestosis is fairly well known not so many people know about the hazards of other dusts. The critical factor is the size of the particle. Large particles are indeed trapped and expelled by the mucus and cilia in the bronchi / bronchioli but small particles <7um known as respirable dust are deposited in the alveoli permanently. Once there they can cause fibrosis or allergic effects. Many miners suffer from pneumoconiosis (lung disease) from silica dust inhalation and there are recognised compensation schemes for this condition. The type of dust is not restricted to mineral or metal types. Organic Dusts are derived from living materials-plants, animals, microorganisms and from products like wood and leather. Dusts are created during the harvesting of plant materials such as grains, coffee beans, cotton, flax, and timber. Animal and poultry farming produces dust also. Woodworking and leatherwork involve considerable exposure to organic dusts. All these dusts are considered causes of lung cancer. While some individuals will not develop any symptoms others will and there is no way of predicting who and at what level of exposure although obviously the more you are exposed the higher the risk! The message is avoid all forms of respirable dusts that can end up in the alveoli. As I said once its in there it does not come out!!
See http://lungdiseases.about.com/od/asbestosisdustdiseases/ for further details.
This a good explanation of asbestosis from a medical school site in the states. "When people inhale air, it always contains small particles. These particles have to be filtered out because the lungs need to remain sterile. The nose and the bronchi (the airways leading down to the lungs) are the main air filters for the lungs. Asbestos particles (called amphiboles) are long, extremely thin, microscopic glass-like fibers that are not filtered by the nose or the bronchi because they are so thin and light. Asbestosis development starts when a person inhales an amphibole. This particle travels deep into the lungs to one of the 300 million gas exchanging structures called an alveolus. Each alveolus has many cleaning cells called macrophages that eat up any particles that made it down to the alveoli. Unfortunately the macrophages can not eat the amphibole because it is too long, but they still try. In trying to eat this particle the macrophage essentially cuts itself open and the digestive molecules that were contained inside the macrophage have now spilled on the alveolus. These molecules injure the alveolus and cause it to form a scar. This scarring formation is called fibrosis. The same amphibole that could not be eaten attracts other macrophages from neighboring areas. They try to eat the particle and also fail, and this further damages the lungs. In reality, people who are exposed to asbestos inhale hundreds and thousands of amphiboles, which causes large-scale injury. Such large-scale injury is when major lung damage (fibrosis) develops and is named "Asbestosis" after the disease-causing particle. Asbestosis is found in people who are chronically exposed to asbestos material. Those who are at the highest risk are the people who directly handle asbestos material at their job. This group includes vehicle mechanics, construction workers, shipyard workers, electricians and other workers in the building trades".
While asbestosis is fairly well known not so many people know about the hazards of other dusts. The critical factor is the size of the particle. Large particles are indeed trapped and expelled by the mucus and cilia in the bronchi / bronchioli but small particles <7um known as respirable dust are deposited in the alveoli permanently. Once there they can cause fibrosis or allergic effects. Many miners suffer from pneumoconiosis (lung disease) from silica dust inhalation and there are recognised compensation schemes for this condition. The type of dust is not restricted to mineral or metal types. Organic Dusts are derived from living materials-plants, animals, microorganisms and from products like wood and leather. Dusts are created during the harvesting of plant materials such as grains, coffee beans, cotton, flax, and timber. Animal and poultry farming produces dust also. Woodworking and leatherwork involve considerable exposure to organic dusts. All these dusts are considered causes of lung cancer. While some individuals will not develop any symptoms others will and there is no way of predicting who and at what level of exposure although obviously the more you are exposed the higher the risk! The message is avoid all forms of respirable dusts that can end up in the alveoli. As I said once its in there it does not come out!!
See http://lungdiseases.about.com/od/asbestosisdustdiseases/ for further details.
grober
MB Master
I must apologise to DB1 for going "off topic" since I'm sure all you wanted was a bit of advice about brakes. I guess it was when you mentioned your kids safety that prompted me to mention the dust hazard if you were to do a DIY. Maybe I'll start another post on safety elsewhere?
grober
MB Master
YES probably not as bad as asbestos but still a cumulative hazard see my previous post on Respirable dust.
grober
MB Master
YES probably not as bad as asbestos but still a cumulative hazard see my previous post on Respirable dust.
Wow, interesting thread development!
In the end I managed to negotiate a slightly better deal with the dealer and went that route. However on the way there the power steering pump started making grinding noises! Turns out that the pipe which feeds the condenser and the power steering had a hole and the power steering fluid was leaking out. They had to replace that as well which cost around 350 quid inc VAT and labour. Purely coincidence...
The story doesn't end there - the following day I got an urgent call from them telling me to call back asap. When I called it turned out the mechanic forgot to fit one of the locking wheel bolts! THey sent out a mechanic with the bolt and my socket (which they had kept!) and fitted it! They seemed pretty apologetic and I guess since there were 4 other bolts in place the danger was relatively low..anyhow hope the rest of the stuff they did was OK.
In the end the car seems fine, the brakes make no noise and the power steering is OK too, so alls well that ends well...albeit 1000 quid poorer!
DB1
In the end I managed to negotiate a slightly better deal with the dealer and went that route. However on the way there the power steering pump started making grinding noises! Turns out that the pipe which feeds the condenser and the power steering had a hole and the power steering fluid was leaking out. They had to replace that as well which cost around 350 quid inc VAT and labour. Purely coincidence...
The story doesn't end there - the following day I got an urgent call from them telling me to call back asap. When I called it turned out the mechanic forgot to fit one of the locking wheel bolts! THey sent out a mechanic with the bolt and my socket (which they had kept!) and fitted it! They seemed pretty apologetic and I guess since there were 4 other bolts in place the danger was relatively low..anyhow hope the rest of the stuff they did was OK.
In the end the car seems fine, the brakes make no noise and the power steering is OK too, so alls well that ends well...albeit 1000 quid poorer!
DB1
grober
MB Master
Glad you got the brakes sorted out. Always a good idea to give your car a quick visual check over when you get it back from the dealer/ garage to check
a) THEY HAVE DONE THE WORK!
b) CHECK FOR BODY DAMAGE -I'm talking minor scrapes which might go unnoticed. The dealer checks this when the car goes in to protect themselves 
so you should do this as soon as possible after getting the car back.
c)CHECK THE CAR SAFETY WISE wheels and tyres in particular for the very reasons you found out. The dealer should give the car a brief road test after servicing it but sometimes due to workload one slips thro the net.
a) THEY HAVE DONE THE WORK!
b) CHECK FOR BODY DAMAGE
-I'm talking minor scrapes which might go unnoticed. The dealer checks this when the car goes in to protect themselves so you should do this as soon as possible after getting the car back.c)CHECK THE CAR SAFETY WISE wheels and tyres in particular for the very reasons you found out. The dealer should give the car a brief road test after servicing it but sometimes due to workload one slips thro the net.
Dieselman
Banned
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- Jul 13, 2003
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- 34,198
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- Peugeot 403 Convertible
To be fair the Tech. probably puts in the four bolts, tightens them up then adds the locking bolt once the wheel is firmly tightened. I always do it this way.
You don't want to be tightening up too tight on the locking key as they do fail. I recently had to buy one for £17.
You don't want to be tightening up too tight on the locking key as they do fail. I recently had to buy one for £17.
Agreed - you don't want to overtighten any of the bolts, hence use of a torque wrench or similar.
I know that MB techs are human like the rest of us, it's just that if I were paying ~ £100/hour for labour I would at the very least expect to find the wheels bolted on properly? Surely there is some form of quality control that needs to be addressed here.
I changed discs/pads/wear sensors/new caliper bolts etc on the W202 earlier this week - amazingly I had no spare wheel bolts when I had finished the job!
Will
I know that MB techs are human like the rest of us, it's just that if I were paying ~ £100/hour for labour I would at the very least expect to find the wheels bolted on properly? Surely there is some form of quality control that needs to be addressed here.
I changed discs/pads/wear sensors/new caliper bolts etc on the W202 earlier this week - amazingly I had no spare wheel bolts when I had finished the job!
Will
