i started my 300SL after two weeks today. It started fine the first time, I then turned it off, but 5 minutes later it would not start again - after a few tries, smoke started coming from underneath the hood, not sure where it originated from. After an hour I tried starting it again, and after a few tries and pops and bangs from under the hood, the engine started accompanied with shuddering and vibration. Upon revving, the engine shudders, vibrates and makes loud pops, and the revs get temporarily cut out before picking up. No idea what's going on with it, any thoughts on what the cause may be?
Navigation
Install the app
How to install the app on iOS
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
More options
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
r107 300SL starting/ idling problems
ray_hennig
MB Enthusiast
Ebay!!!
Before you do that, make sure that Ebay supplies the right stuff. My cap and rotor arm are genuine MB and the leads Beru.
My message to you is MB followed by Beru/Bosch and nothing else - that's my experience; I'm not saying that other good products don't exist.
Good luck and beware Ebay.
RayH
Hi there - my online research indicates exactly the same thing, many thanks for the precise answer. Will order rotor arm, distributor cap and cables from ebay.
Before you do that, make sure that Ebay supplies the right stuff. My cap and rotor arm are genuine MB and the leads Beru.
My message to you is MB followed by Beru/Bosch and nothing else - that's my experience; I'm not saying that other good products don't exist.
Good luck and beware Ebay.
RayH
Don't change the leads unless they are visibly damaged as they very rarely go wrong and you can cause more problems changing them!
If it is still causing you problems(which is probably wont be) after the distributor cap and rotar arm are changed than it will probably just be a lead end that needs changing and not the actual leads.
Trust me I was given this advise some time ago by a guru on 107s.
If it is still causing you problems(which is probably wont be) after the distributor cap and rotar arm are changed than it will probably just be a lead end that needs changing and not the actual leads.
Trust me I was given this advise some time ago by a guru on 107s.
Before you do that, make sure that Ebay supplies the right stuff. My cap and rotor arm are genuine MB and the leads Beru.
My message to you is MB followed by Beru/Bosch and nothing else - that's my experience; I'm not saying that other good products don't exist.
Good luck and beware Ebay.
RayH
Absolutely, couldn't agree more! Bosch is the only dizzy cap and rotor arm I would consider.
Before you do that, make sure that Ebay supplies the right stuff. My cap and rotor arm are genuine MB and the leads Beru.
My message to you is MB followed by Beru/Bosch and nothing else - that's my experience; I'm not saying that other good products don't exist.
Good luck and beware Ebay.
RayH
Many thanks for the heads up! The parts on the bay are marked 'Beru', and I'll ensure that I don't stray from the three names you have suggested for any other parts either (except perhaps the exhaust as the original is very expensive).
Don't change the leads unless they are visibly damaged as they very rarely go wrong and you can cause more problems changing them!
If it is still causing you problems(which is probably wont be) after the distributor cap and rotar arm are changed than it will probably just be a lead end that needs changing and not the actual leads.
Trust me I was given this advise some time ago by a guru on 107s.
Top tip AMG19 - I will just order the cap and rotor arm first. They're quite affordable and I should be able to change them myself, and hopefully get a resolution.
Btw there is a reasonably strong smell of smoke from the exhaust even when the car is idling - noticeably more so than any modern car. The mechanic who looked at it said it's no problem, probably the engine burning a bit of oil, but the engine will run fine for many years to come regardless. I don't particularly like the idea of smoky emissions though, and it degrades the experience of driving the car if you're getting frequent whiffs of smoke in the air you're breathing - short of going for an engine rebuild, are there any tips to reduce the smell?
Are you getting blue smoke coming out of the exhaust? If so most commonly the valve stem seals will need replacing which is not a head off job on a 300. Otherwise is there any external leaks on the engine?
Where abouts are you located?
Where abouts are you located?
Hi there, yes bluish smoke is emitted when the engine is given a good rev (the MOT certificate notes blue smoke as well). At idle rev, no smoke is visible, but the smoky odour is very much present. I don't believe there are any engine leaks, but the exhaust is definitely leaking underneath the car. Is the valve stem seal job easy enough to try as DIY?
I'm located in West London, and you're most welcome to drop by if you happen to come this way - it would be great to meet another club member.
I'm located in West London, and you're most welcome to drop by if you happen to come this way - it would be great to meet another club member.
ray_hennig
MB Enthusiast
When this happened to me ...
Are you getting blue smoke at idle or just 'rich mixture-type' smoke? Blue is oil, black is richness.
Is your blue smoke at 'good rev' all the time or just once in a while? If it's once in a while it may be just oil that's come down from the top - not too depressing. If it's all the time, tension sets in!
I had a W123 280 (M110 engine) and it smoked on the overrun (high speed, foot off the accelerator) - after getting up to speed and letting off the pedal I used to get a good, heavy cloud of blue smoke. This was due to oil being sucked down the valve guides by vacuum. The solution was with top end work only.
The more threatening blue smoke is when it comes during acceleration. This suggests worn bores and major work.
So, it pays to be sure which smoke you're getting.
Good luck, nice car. I had a W107 for a couple of years and it gave me great pleasure in Germany. It had 10K miles on the clock when I bought it and I was so petrified of scraping the right hand door on the way into the garage that I scraped the opposite front wing instead. What a pillock. Happy days.
RayH
Hi there, yes bluish smoke is emitted when the engine is given a good rev (the MOT certificate notes blue smoke as well). At idle rev, no smoke is visible, but the smoky odour is very much present. I don't believe there are any engine leaks, but the exhaust is definitely leaking underneath the car. Is the valve stem seal job easy enough to try as DIY?
I'm located in West London, and you're most welcome to drop by if you happen to come this way - it would be great to meet another club member.
Are you getting blue smoke at idle or just 'rich mixture-type' smoke? Blue is oil, black is richness.
Is your blue smoke at 'good rev' all the time or just once in a while? If it's once in a while it may be just oil that's come down from the top - not too depressing. If it's all the time, tension sets in!
I had a W123 280 (M110 engine) and it smoked on the overrun (high speed, foot off the accelerator) - after getting up to speed and letting off the pedal I used to get a good, heavy cloud of blue smoke. This was due to oil being sucked down the valve guides by vacuum. The solution was with top end work only.
The more threatening blue smoke is when it comes during acceleration. This suggests worn bores and major work.
So, it pays to be sure which smoke you're getting.
Good luck, nice car. I had a W107 for a couple of years and it gave me great pleasure in Germany. It had 10K miles on the clock when I bought it and I was so petrified of scraping the right hand door on the way into the garage that I scraped the opposite front wing instead. What a pillock. Happy days.
RayH
Last edited:
Hi RayH, at idle there isn't any smoke visible from the exhaust as such (although there is plenty of water vapour in this cold weather) - however there is a distinct smell of smoke, which might be the 'rich mixture' smoke you mention. The blue smoke though is emitted when the car is revved while in neutral. When driving, I haven't checked whether the smoke is on the overrun or while accelerating, but I have a hunch that it is unfortunately the latter - I will check to make sure. Agree, it's a nice car that provides a healthy dose of character for its price point - however it does seem to be riddled with problems!
Re scraping the car while being over zealously careful, that is exactly what the transporter did while delivering the car to me - he was so afraid he would hit the wall on the passenger side while reversing down the driveway that he scraped the rear wing on the driver side in a pillar instead... that is yet another thing that I need to get repaired (I'm thinking of having the boot stripped and resprayed as it has ripples in the paint, and getting the scraped wing and other minor areas touched up at the same time).
Re scraping the car while being over zealously careful, that is exactly what the transporter did while delivering the car to me - he was so afraid he would hit the wall on the passenger side while reversing down the driveway that he scraped the rear wing on the driver side in a pillar instead... that is yet another thing that I need to get repaired (I'm thinking of having the boot stripped and resprayed as it has ripples in the paint, and getting the scraped wing and other minor areas touched up at the same time).
ray_hennig
MB Enthusiast
... that is yet another thing that I need to get repaired (I'm thinking of having the boot stripped and resprayed as it has ripples in the paint, and getting the scraped wing and other minor areas touched up at the same time).
Re getting minor bodywork done:
My friend managed to damage the under-front-bumper area on his brand new Renault Espace. He also had some scratches on the bonnet. Anyway, Renault in London quoted around £1800 to fix it. He got the whole lot fixed in a rural French garage for less than €300.
The moral of this story is to consider France for certain repairs with labour rates in the €35 an hour area.
Bonne chance.
RayH
Hi there, yes bluish smoke is emitted when the engine is given a good rev (the MOT certificate notes blue smoke as well). At idle rev, no smoke is visible, but the smoky odour is very much present. I don't believe there are any engine leaks, but the exhaust is definitely leaking underneath the car. Is the valve stem seal job easy enough to try as DIY?
I'm located in West London, and you're most welcome to drop by if you happen to come this way - it would be great to meet another club member.
In short if its when your stationary and when you pull away then it is the stem seals, if it is while you are doing high revs and moving it is rings and bores.
Most likely to just be the stem seals though which is a job for a specialist not a DIY job I'm afraid.
Users who are viewing this thread
Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)
Similar threads
- Replies
- 10
- Views
- 267
