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R170 boot lock

No, not so, your lock barrel is seized, it being seized won’t stop the central locking from working, something else is stopping CL from working.
For example, my boot lock was seized when I bought my car, the key blade wouldn't even enter the lock but that didn't stop the central locking from working normally.

Your plan of attack is to;
-Remove the Yellow air pipe, it wiggles/pulls off.
-Operate the central locking with the remote, don't shut the boot lid.
-Unlocking with the remote will cause air to be blown through the Yellow pipe.
-Locking may or may not cause air to be sucked true the yellow pipe, not sure if it sucks air or not.

Its quite possible that there is a hole or split in the rubber actuator 3, to determine this you would need to get your mouth around it and blow into it to see if air is escaping.

The are easley broken… the are of brittle White plastic… might be best to buy a replacement from an MB dealer.

Keep at the seized lock.

Dec
 
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No, not so, your lock barrel is seized, it being seized won’t stop the central locking from working, something else is stopping CL from working.
For example, my boot lock was seized when I bought my car, the key blade wouldn't even enter the lock but that didn't stop the central locking from working normally.

Your plan of attack is to;
-Remove the Yellow air pipe, it wiggles/pulls off.
-Operate the central locking with the remote, don't shut the boot lid.
-Unlocking with the remote will cause air to be blown through the Yellow pipe.
-Locking may or may not cause air to be sucked true the yellow pipe, not sure if it sucks air or not.

Its quite possible that there is a hole or split in the rubber actuator 3, to determine this you would need to get your mouth around it and blow into it to see if air is escaping.

The are easley broken… the are of brittle White plastic… might be best to buy a replacement from an MB dealer.

Keep at the seized lock.

Dec

Of course, CL and Door Lock, 2 different systems, 2 different issues, back on track. Bright and early I will be waking up the neighbours.

Cheers Dec :D
 
Your plan of attack is to;
-Remove the Yellow air pipe, it wiggles/pulls off.
-Operate the central locking with the remote, don't shut the boot lid.
-Unlocking with the remote will cause air to be blown through the Yellow pipe.
-Locking may or may not cause air to be sucked true the yellow pipe, not sure if it sucks air or not.

Its quite possible that there is a hole or split in the rubber actuator 3, to determine this you would need to get your mouth around it and blow into it to see if air is escaping.

The are easley broken… the are of brittle White plastic… might be best to buy a replacement from an MB dealer.

Keep at the seized lock.

Dec

Tried massaging, gentle persuasion, gentle force, copious amounts of lube and hypnotism but it just won't move. Yellow pipe sucks air, as everything moves about 2mm when the remote is activated, but that aluminium lock barrel with nipple at the end, just won't budge.

On a positive note, the key I thought was at the end of its travel, turns out there was more to go, now the blade sinks right up to the body of the key, still won't turn mind you.

Attempting to push/pull the lock barrel whilst turning the key, but no luck, yet. I'm out of ideas apart from taking the lock out completely, even that is proving a struggle as the boot trim won't unscrew to get at the lock, even they are seized. How forceful can I be without breaking anything?

Thx
 
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With too much force, its possible to snap the key blade, it won’t bend, it will snap as it’s made of toughen steal.

Only turning the key blade will move the aluminium centrepiece… Blue arrow… as the lock barrel is seized, placing the key blade all the way into the lock and then trying to move, left or right, the aluminium centrepiece with pliers, this may or may not force the lock barrel free.

mw9RBY9.jpg


An alternative solution is to dismantle the lock barrel, different lock but much the same principle in the link below.
Boot lock fix - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

Very important to have a boot lock that can be opened by key blade in the event of failure of any part the central locking system.

Is the below peg, bottom right of picture, what you are having trouble with? As illustrated, the pull out to remove.

Dec

B.jpg
 
Not that lock, this seems to work fine.
From what I can tell, the facelift boot lock is removed via 2 screws under the boot lid handle, which has to be removed first, it's this which is stuck fast. It's all a bit tricky as its in an area that you can't attack with heavy tools.

Something will give eventually, patience will prevail.

Thanks again.
 
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Good news and bad news. The bad news, I took a hammer to the lock and bits of aluminium flew off everywhere, hard;y surprising, but surprised all the same :o:o

Good news, that lock lever thingy is now moving left to right, if I manually move the lever right (lock) position, the RC CL will push it back unaided by human hands :bannana:

Getting there.....
 
Dec, thank you for the thank you, but its undeserved as this is all your handiwork, is it the done thing to give a thank you/response or a big massive thank you at the end once the problem is solved? And whats the difference between a 'like' and 'thanks'.

Sorry slightly off topic.
 
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The thank button is what it is, it’s used to say thanks or in my/this case to indicate that I had seen your reply but had nothing more to add. The like button, that, I haven’t a clue what it is for or why we need both, never use it. No need to give a massive thank you.

I thought the hammer incident was very funny given your previous remark… “Something will give eventually, patience will prevail.” … was there much damage to the lock.

Are you now saying the central locking is now working or is the key now locking and locking the boot?

Dec
 
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I thought the hammer incident was very funny given your previous remark… “Something will give eventually, patience will prevail.” … was there much damage to the lock.

Are you now saying the central locking is now working or is the key now locking and locking the boot?

Dec

Not sure how much damage, the previous owner had never used the key, so it's well and truly seized, either way there is some movement, which can't be bad.

the key still does not turn, so I'm going to ignore that for now, but with the boot open, I can now manually push the lock lever towards the yellow line, simulating the "pull" aspect of the vacuum, then by pressing the RC, the lever releases itself, unaided, the "push" part of the process.

I just need to work on the "pull" side of things, whats stronger than WD40?
 
Have you sprayed oil on the inside parts as in above pictures?

Its not so much what you are using to free the lock, its delivering the oil to where its needed, that’s what is important, so an aerosol with a straw like WD40 is probably the best.

Dec
 
Have you sprayed oil on the inside parts as in above pictures?

Its not so much what you are using to free the lock, its delivering the oil to where its needed, that’s what is important, so an aerosol with a straw like WD40 is probably the best.

Dec

I have literally emptied tins of WD40 in and outside all the visible parts, with a straw, but that key just wont turn. After what you said about the key snapping, I am being extremely gentle with it.

Speaking of keys, can I buy a used RC FOB from ebay, and have it reprogrammed for my car? I read the following which seems to suggest you can?

Mercedes Benz Key Programming / Reprogramming | eBay

Thanks

Jet
 
Your link is referring to synchronising YOUR EXISTING remote fob and has nothing to do with reprogramming. Synchronising is described in the User Manual, see page 225 in below link.
http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalAssets/pdfmb/ownersmanual/2000_slk230_slk320.pdf
The manual above is for an American car so may differ from yours.

A used flip out remote can’t be reprogrammed to your car, no mater what the advert on ebay says. Another spare remote can only be obtained, new, from a MB dealer.

The remote fobs you see on ebay are often bought to replace an existing remote fob case that is damaged or broken, people just swap over the remote innards to a better remote case/shell.

The key blade will take some force, not easy to describe how much, what I mean is don’t try to force it with a tool like a pliers beyond what might seem to be sensible.

Have you a spare key BLADE?

Dec
 
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I thought it couldn't be that easy, a potential security risk, but thought id ask, I don't have a spare, but will have to get one at some point.

thx
 
Before you might do any forcing of the key in the lock you could get a blade cut without the electronic remote part, say what area you live in and someone may be able to recommend a key cutter.

Dec
 
I live in the best place to own a car, London :)
 

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