Rear Suspension

pmcgsmurf

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No...would I need to do so...when Everything was cleaned up ..all looked fine..Advice most welcome..
You don't have to but they are about £12 for OEM from Mercedes. ;)

My rule of thumb this far in would be new OEM wheel bearings, reluctor rings and drive shaft nuts.
You will be doing the bearings and the nuts anyway so the rings are only a small extra cost.
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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No...would I need to do so...when Everything was cleaned up ..all looked fine..Advice most welcome..
Thinking about it now...it would be pretty dumb not to do so..Thank you for the nudge...:thumb:
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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You don't have to but they are about £12 for OEM from Mercedes. ;)

My rule of thumb this far in would be new OEM wheel bearings, reluctor rings and drive shaft nuts.
You will be doing the bearings and the nuts anyway so the rings are only a small extra cost.
The wheel bearings are done..I have the new Nut and the Trunion bush is in...New Calipers going on..New springs and shocks on their way..Wanting to drop the Diff in the morning then the subframe...so it would be crackers not to re new the reluctor rings...
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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I managed to drop the Diff today, had to fight the 3 bolts holing it in..no problems separating the propshaft from the Diff. I did remember not to press the footbrake as there was nothing inside the calipers so I gaffer taped a couple of blocks of wood in there, then I could put the car in neutral to spin the propshaft. Undoing the centre of the prop gave me a little grief as it wasnt high enough so I raised the back by 6 inches and undid the bolts with relative ease..remembering to mark where the bolts were so as not to alter the balance when I refit it.I also made witness marks on the Diff end of the prop and Diff so they would go back the same as before. I had to cut the single bolt that goes up into the Subframe as this just kept turning, I got my fingers into the cut out and could feel the tip of the bolt, then what felt like a large strange shaped washer...I ended up cutting the Bolt with just a hacksaw blade...It Took a while...After that I put my large Garage Jack that has a wide saddle under the Diff ( I had already broke the seal on both bolts I had to use a 12" breaker bar and push with my feet to do so) and lifted it level then removed the 2 remaining Bolts. I had taped a strong rubble bag over the diff to stop any oil coming out through the drive shaft holes even though I had packed them with a rag earlier...Non came out...the oil inside is a clean Red looking oil, I found it a little strange as it looks like the filler plug has never been undone. I am going to clean it up then my MOT mechanic friend is going to remove the back plate and have a look inside before I buy new seals etc..That has been my Day today..with luck weather wise I want to drop the subframe tomorrow..I have a 450n and a 750n Impact Wrench so dont anticipate any problems..as long as the bolts dont snap..Is there anything I should look out for when doing this...any advice is really welcome...Steve 2020-05-07 15.14.26.jpg 2020-05-07 15.19.51.jpg 2020-05-07 17.41.07.jpg 2020-05-07 17.41.15.jpg 2020-05-07 17.41.26.jpg 2020-05-07 17.42.25.jpg
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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Today I dropped the Subframe, I didnt need to remove the Exhaust I just dropped the the rear section off the hangers and this just gave me room to get the Frame out...It wasnt easy on my own. A 2 foot Breaker Bar cracked the bolts, That pleased me as I had visions of having to use one of my Impact wrenches and a bolt snapping. I didnt remove the hand brake cables I just cut them near the top and eased them open enough to slide the cables out.I eased out the grommets first and pushed them back along the cable so I can just ease them back in later. For me the frame looks terrible but I will see how it cleans up and just how bad the rust is before getting another...same with the Diff..I was advised by Patrick that it would be a good idea to change the reluctor rings on the drive shafts...this I will be doing...also while I have everything removed from the rear I may aswel re new the ABS Sensors..once I work out how to get the old ones out...The underside has a bit of rust here and there but nothing drastic..I will give it a good proding another day...I didnt get to take pictures as I injured my back and neck today but will take some over the next few days. At the very start of my post I mentioned that there was no Anti Roll Bar...that is still the case..and no eveidence of there ever being one fitted..I hope the numbers on the frame may give me a clue as to why..... Steve 2020-05-08 17.58.17.jpg 2020-05-08 17.58.25.jpg 2020-05-08 17.58.44.jpg 2020-05-08 17.59.02.jpg 2020-05-08 17.59.21.jpg 2020-05-08 17.59.47.jpg 2020-05-08 18.00.02.jpg
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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Mercedes C180 W203 Mercedes C280 W 202
Its been quite a few days since my last post..My Back and neck took a bit longer to heal than I thought it would...I gave the Subfame as good a clean as I could, I put my Mini-Cam inside to see what the condition was like and to my surprise it looked fine..bits of surface rust in spots but nothing to worry me, I gave it a good degreasing with the No Nonsense stuff from Screwfix...its very good..Ive used it on my W202 C280 and it got rid of all the gunge....I gave it 2 coats of primer 24 hrs between coats then 2 coats of Brush applied Hamerite Black 24hrs between coats..I forgot to mention that all the rust spots and areas were treated with Hamerite Rust cure..or whatever the name is....and this is the result...Not perfect but a lot better than before. My Mot Mechanic friend checked out the all the bushings and declared them ok but advised to get new bolts.....The next job is the Differential..... 2020-05-22 16.42.48.jpg 2020-05-22 16.43.08.jpg 2020-05-22 16.43.23.jpg
 

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Grahamcol

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What an amazing project. I'm very impressed with what's been done on this car. Wish l had the skills and facilities to do something like this.
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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Good stuff, keep it up. I can see what I am letting myself in for if I decide to do the same on my S203 C55 :thumb:
Its been tough going with the age and condition under the car..but to be honest Im enjoying it...Im in no rush and when its done I will know that there will be many more years in the Old thing...I dont think the Front will be as difficult as the rear has been....My 1996 W202 C280 didnt seem as hard as this...that one was beautiful to drive after all the work...This one will be the same...I will be Broke..begging on street corners at the end..;)
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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What an amazing project. I'm very impressed with what's been done on this car. Wish l had the skills and facilities to do something like this.
Thank you, Im doing this project on my Drive with the car up quite high on blocks, the cleaning etc I do in my back garden and my Shed, I have a pretty good set of tools..not expensive ones like Snap-on..just what I think are decent, Ive done a project exactly like this before on my C280...I was given a lot of help from this Forum, watched Videos, Read the Haynes Manuals...and just looked at things in a logic way...If I get stuck I ask a question...and been prepared to make mistakes...and I am sure I will make a few with this Project...Im pleased youve enjoyed reading about it....The Differential is the very next task.....
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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I really could do with a little help, I am still trying to work out why there is no Anti Roll Bar on this Car, and no evidence that there ever has been.I have searched every forum watch a shed load of Video`s looked at diagrams but just can not see where it is supposed to be fitted..Is it fitted to the Subframe or the Body of the Car...where do the Drop links fit, there is a place at the back of the Hub Carrier where I think they may fit but not sure...There are only 2 places on the Subframe that have threaded holes but they are for the exhaust hangers...but nothing on the Bodywork.Ive taken some photo`s to see if anyone can help me out...the underside has yet to be worked on I would like to add...no way would it be left in this state...any help would really be appreciated...Steve.. 2020-05-24 13.07.03.jpg 2020-05-24 13.07.08.jpg 20200524_132057.jpg 20200524_132346.jpg
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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JHONO , are you replacing all the brake lines while the sub frame is off ? If so what are you planning to use MB parts, or make them yourself ?
Hi Pete.I dont need to touch the brake lines thankfully as they are all good, It looks like they have a Red Oxide coating on them, I scratched a bit back to bare metal and sure enough there is a coating on them, Im just going to give then a light rub with a Scotch pad to get the dirt off then spray them and the underside with Silver Hammerite...after Ive sorted out the surface rust on the body....If I was to replace them I think I would make my own after getting solid advice from my MOT Mechanic Friend...Ive not made Brake Lines for many years but know there is some really good stuff to be had now. I am changing the Calipers and putting Stainless Braided flexi hoses on...apart from the items Ive refurbished it will be a brand new back end...Im changing the seals in the diff and getting new filler and drain plugs..one with magnetic ability as The ones in right now are not...another few weeks then the rebuild will start...once thats done and the geometry set up again I will start on the front...I love a challenge...;)
 

Petrol Pete

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The front will be a piece of pi$$ for you compared to the rear. I changed every front ink/arm on mine and the discs/pads, nothing like you have had to do on the rear. :thumb:
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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The front will be a piece of pi$$ for you compared to the rear. I changed every front ink/arm on mine and the discs/pads, nothing like you have had to do on the rear. :thumb:
I found the front on my 1996 C280 a lot easier than the rear..but this rear has been harder than the C280 was, I completely stripped it down to just the engine being left in place. I used White Enamel spray paint on that for the Body and inner wings and Black enamel for the parts..looked brilliant...but no one sees all the work apart from the Mechanics at MOT time...I regret selling the C280...I think the W202 is far better than the W203...but maybe Im a bit biased as I loved that car....:(
 

jasonh

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Hi Pete.I dont need to touch the brake lines thankfully as they are all good, It looks like they have a Red Oxide coating on them, I scratched a bit back to bare metal and sure enough there is a coating on them, Im just going to give then a light rub with a Scotch pad to get the dirt off then spray them and the underside with Silver Hammerite...after Ive sorted out the surface rust on the body....If I was to replace them I think I would make my own after getting solid advice from my MOT Mechanic Friend...Ive not made Brake Lines for many years but know there is some really good stuff to be had now. I am changing the Calipers and putting Stainless Braided flexi hoses on...apart from the items Ive refurbished it will be a brand new back end...Im changing the seals in the diff and getting new filler and drain plugs..one with magnetic ability as The ones in right now are not...another few weeks then the rebuild will start...once thats done and the geometry set up again I will start on the front...I love a challenge...;)
Even if you get the genuine MB hard brakelines they will be supplied in a coil so you will have to shape them yourself.

Personally whilst you have easy access I'd be changing your hard lines over to Copper Nickel alloy (Kunifer or Cunifer). Steel brake lines do corrode but Copper Nickel doesn't. All you really need is a decent flaring tool; you can form the shapes by hand pretty well.
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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Im going to sand back an easy area just to see what they are..I only scraped off a line about 2" long... whatever they are they will out live me anyway...lol.....Ive just put a magnet on them..it doesnt stick so they are not Steel....so the job is a good un...
 
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BlackC55

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The roll bar is attached to the body on a bracket. You may not have the bracket. The roll bar link attaches to the lower arm.

Your brake pipes are touching the body. That needs to be looked at. Great effort BTW. I have done this job twice recently on e 124 and 129.
 
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JOHNO978

JOHNO978

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The roll bar is attached to the body on a bracket. You may not have the bracket. The roll bar link attaches to the lower arm.

Your brake pipes are touching the body. That needs to be looked at. Great effort BTW. I have done this job twice recently on e 124 and 129.
Ref Brake pipes Touching the body...Thank you..now noted..in all honesty I had not noticed...Maybe...just maybe I would have spotted it..but only Maybe..:thumb:...I have a full tank of fuel so that area will only be touched when its nearly empty but I shall address the brake pipe issue...There is absolutely nowhere that I can find that would possibly hold the brackets..ive looked for a captive nut and anything at all that would take a bolt to hold the bracket on...I will take some pictures with my old phone..it seems to have the right size image to be uploaded...this issue really is doing my head in....:wallbash:..Thank you for your Help..I really appreciate it....Steve..
 

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