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Received invalid "OEM matched" part for aux water pump - R230

conor1n said:
It's bonkers, I have no idea what's going on.

I asked somebody before they said if you didn't buy the car new from dealer.. it is highly likely that somebody just bodged a part in prior to my ownership..
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What is?
You need part A2308350264 that much is clear and it has the connector on it. ;)
 
pmcgsmurf said:
What is?
You need part A2308350264 that much is clear and it has the connector on it. ;)
Click to expand...

Yes but it's only clear that we need that part based on visual inspection, which could have been retrofitted. I am going to try and get MB to send a pic of the pump they have on hand.

I mean, how often is MB EPC wrong? I genuinely don't know.
 
It's also strange that no aftermarket supplier websites list this part.
 
conor1n said:
Yes but it's only clear that we need that part based on visual inspection, which could have been retrofitted. I am going to try and get MB to send a pic of the pump they have on hand.

I mean, how often is MB EPC wrong? I genuinely don't know.
Click to expand...

But it isn't, that part was fitted to the car as per the VIN.
Pictures of the part shown in the thread show it as having a conenctor.
EPC is no longer available or used by the dealers, I've not known it to be wrong and have bought hundreds if not thousands of parts.
 
Ok, so you are sure that is the part I need and need to go OEM for it.

I wonder are there any cheaper alternatives. I don't mind taking a risk with a cheaper part as this isn't a critical part and the car only does a couple thousand (max) miles a year.
 
Have you tried looking for the Bosch part number? That's worked for me in the past.
 
Yes I did, but not much luck really.

I would be inclined to just use what I have and find a connection to fit.

Where would I get such a connection?
 
Having a similar confusion issue, the additional pump part number for my car seems to be A2803350264 but this has 2 hose connectors. Mechanic says one on my car VIN WDB2304672F089805 has 3 hose connections and seems to be part A0018353564. MB quoted £222 and Jeep-Chrysler have one for £60,Auxiliary Water Pump for MERCEDES CLASS C / E / CLK / SL AWP/ME/005A | JEEP CHRYSLER
just days it’s for SL500 and I have a 350 - do you think it’s the correct part?
 
conor1n said:
Yes but it's only clear that we need that part based on visual inspection, which could have been retrofitted. I am going to try and get MB to send a pic of the pump they have on hand.

I mean, how often is MB EPC wrong? I genuinely don't know.
Click to expand...
VIN: WDB2304712F120719

Hey Connor (& anyone else who reads this & might shed some light on this?); I've run into a similar issue as you. I would have PM’d but I don't think I can PM because I'm new here. I’m interested in what you did with yours in the end?

I was supplied with the wrong part after various assurances from the supplier here in the UK pre-purchase - that it was definitely correct.

My local Mercedes dealer couldn't get their part for a few weeks (& no gty on that either). As I may not have been able to return the incorrect part & that it is not too dissimilar from the original; I thought I’d see if this would actually do the job - especially given other comments in this thread - basically saying it’s just a 12v pump.

It’s a Bosh part, a little bigger than the original, so it may consume more current than the smaller original.

The main difference is that on the original - the input to the impeller chamber has two hoses (3 in total; 2 hoses in & 1 out). The smaller hose input (12mm ) is absent on the new pump.

As 12mm is going into the impeller chamber, I figured that I just need to use a t-piece reducer before the input - job done. So I've done just that and it’s all fitted and at temperature, no leaks (given there are more joints now - this was important).

Ok but now, the new pump is fitted - it’s not starting up; it actually pulses for a split second, once ever 10 seconds, for 3 times (& doesn’t try again until engine restart or the parking heat (“rest”) function is enabled on the dash.

This might just be that I need to clear off the original fault (which basically said there was a short on the heating circulation pump / circuit).

The electrical connector on the original pump was heavily corroded and actually came off in my hand (on the pump - not the loom / car-side connector) so there was certainly a short there - so that fault made perfect sense.

I do not currently have a diagnostic right now; I ordered a Mercedes SDS C3 on Monday but it’s still being built I’m told.

So, after I’ve cleared the fault - it *might* be good but I am doubtful given it is trying to start now.

I wonder if the ECU is thinking the new pump is drawing too much current - as I said, it’s a bit bigger than the original one. If so, perhaps I need to put a resistor in series with +ve to reduce the current that the new pump can draw - I guess this might mean the pump runs slower but as its bigger, I don’t see that as a big issue.

I would need to know what size resistor to go for, if anyone thinks I’m barking up the right tree. 0.5ohm if 12-14.5v - unsure what watt to use?

Thoughts ? Thanks so much in advance (VIN is above).

BTW, anyone near Chester area that needs access to an SDS, I’m more than happy to help you (free obv.) - when it arrives!
 
You picked up on an old thread . The aixhilliary water pumps are mostley the same . I will check for you / For a start the vin is not recognised .
 
optimusprime said:
Take a look at this for ref Mercedes 2308350264 Auxiliary Additional Water Pump | R230 SL 350 500 55 600 - The R129 Co
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Thank you, appreciated that it's an old post but lived with hope. Unsure why the Vin isn't recognised - the dealer uses it and it's identical to that on the V5C & invoices from MB Dealer.

I'd seen that link thanks - it was then & is now out of stock - but that is identical to my original though.

My issue is, I've fitted a Bosch part & would like to understand why this does not work. If I have to order the MB one, assuming they can get it, I'll have lost the £100 for the new one currently fitted & then CIRCA £220 more for the MB one. I also don't want to fit a used part from a car that is older than my car is because I may have to do this job yet again if that used part fails - assuming the used one sent to me works at the outset - which is a risk.

So, I see I have 2 options;

1) Get the new one that is currently fitted diagnosed & made good (somehow).
2) See if I can can get MB to order the OEM & maybe sell the one I have that's fitted now on eBay.

If I can't get option 1 to work, then I would say that it's not simply a 12v circ. pump & there's actually more going on than just a 12v feed with on/off on demand - as is seemingly case now??

I have some hope that when I clear the fault code, that the currently fitted will fire up. There can't be much reason why it's not running.

Thank you for responding 👍🙏
 
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Some times i dont bother with new parts , My car is getting on now . And i just go good second hand used parts , from a good used parts company. I also use Benz of Newcastle for parts they have a website on Ebay, just message them via ask the seller a question . They will tell you the pirice and Ebay listing so you can order it , And the picture in the listing can be checked to be sure its identical to yours. If you are interested i can find a listing to lead you there .
 
optimusprime said:
Some times i dont bother with new parts , My car is getting on now . And i just go good second hand used parts , from a good used parts company. I also use Benz of Newcastle for parts they have a website on Ebay, just message them via ask the seller a question . They will tell you the pirice and Ebay listing so you can order it , And the picture in the listing can be checked to be sure its identical to yours. If you are interested i can find a listing to lead you there .
Click to expand...
Hey, thanks - so just an update (& a few other bits):

Was able to order the correct (pump) part from local MB dealer, it turned out to be available in the UK but it's bracket is still en route from Germany & I need a new bracket because I butchered the old one to try & fit that new-wrong part. So the news is; the MB dealer-supplied one is now on the car & it's truly transformed the heater; it's night & day different to how it was; hadn't appreciated how poor it was before.

I didn't need to clear off any DTC's (still haven't received my SDS anyway - but am now told "tomorrow" delivery), so I'm happy that that issue is finally put to bed. On a side note; I'm now more confident I'll be able to return the other part as they confirmed it was correct when it actually wasn't.

Separately; 4 new tyres are going on (Costco B.Friday deal - £588 for 4 x 19" GoodYear F1 - so 2 x 285/30/96Y XL & 2 x 255/35/19/96Y XL), very pleased with that deal. If you're thinking of changing tyres, I looked into them & this is a good deal & price IMO. So, I wanted the Michelin 4s's but the delta in cost above the F1 deal just wasn't worth it @ £300 difference over what I've paid for the F1's.

I now have just 3 jobs left:
New keyfob: MB Dealer said once you've ordered a new one from them, it would def. 100% work once factory pre-programmed, so I ordered it & aside from its "brand new" batteries inside the fob being 100% flat ((that was me going to Asda for new 2025's for an extra £5)); it does not work keylessly rather, only off the button & in ignition switch - so I've got to wok through that. I suspect it's a SDS job.

Then: I've a new drivers door handle & lock actuator to fit (I collected the new parts today along with the fob & pump) plus a wheel refurb & my looong list of stuff since buying the car a few months ago, means I'm done spending on it for a while 🤞

If anyone can point to a guide on how to remove the drivers door card - I'd be appreciative of that thanks (for the lock & handle swap I need to do)... thank in advance 😊
 
You did say R230
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