Replace Shocks on W202 C36

[rees_A]

I've just purchased a set of Lorinser Shocks from ebay, can someone please post a 'How To' on replacing the old ones. I need to know where to jack up, how to remove old shocks,(Front and rear), whether I need to tighten the bolts to any set torque etc. A couple of pics would be brill. Thanks in advance if anyone can oblige...

 

[grasmere]

I need to know where to jack up, how to remove old shocks,(Front and rear), whether I need to tighten the bolts to any set torque etc. A couple of pics would be brill.

Haynes Manuals has already done one with exactly the info you are after and lots more too. I used it myself recently, a perfect 'how to'. Also its full of other "how to's ' like servicing, taking off things and putting back on etc - a mine of information and definitely worth having at hand.

However, a quick note about something that is not mentioned anywhere: you'll notice that one pair are a slightly different length to the other pair. I forget which is front or rear but its obvious as soon as you take one of the old ones off and match up.

Enjoy your new shocks . . .

 

[jimmy]

Without wishing to sound like an ar$e, you dont sound too confident about jacking up the car yet alone changing the shocks, dont mess about unless you know what you are doing.

Please dont take it wrongly, just dont want anybody getting hurt!!

 

[rees_A]

HEHE, I know how to jack a car up, just wondered if you need to jack up differently when installing new shocks. I'm guessing you can use the standard jacking points but wanted to check. I guess I'll have to get a haynes manual from somewhere. As nobody has info...

 

[grasmere]

As nobody has info...

We (I) have the info but its contained in the Haynes manual, ie sequence, piccys, etc.

Changing shocks is a 'routine' maintenance procedure hence I dont believe anyone has/would do a 'how to' as such.

It really is simple, jack up, wheel off, top/bottom nuts etc, shock out
reverse procedure for new one, torque up, drive off

 

[rees_A]

Grasmere, so theres no trick stuff to replacing the shocks then. Do they slide out the bottom and do you know the torque setting. If I know the torque setting I won't need a manual.

Cheers,

Alan

 

[grasmere]

Alan, I can let you have the torque settings if you really want and it is straight forward but there is a safety procedure too eg when doing the rear the pressure needs to be taken on the rear shocks before undoing the top nuts . . .

I dont want the responsibilty of anything going wrong, as Jimmy said "Without wishing to sound like an ar$e," I do recommend the Haynes manual for this and much more . . .

 

[rees_A]

Thanks Grasmere, I'll be fitting them with help from a friend so we should be ok between us(he's got a better idea on mechanics than me). I would like the torque settings if you could give them to me at least then I have the option of doing it myself.

 

[grasmere]

From the Haynes Manual:
Front:
upper mounting locknut 30Nm or 22 lb ft
upper mounting nut 18Nm or 13 lb ft
lower mounting nut/bolt 55Nm or 41 lb ft

Rear:
upper mounting locknut 30Nm or 22 lb ft
upper mounting nut 15Nm or 11 lb ft
lower mounting nut/bolt 55Nm or 41 lb ft

Tips:
One pair is longer then the other - check which is which

Rear: do NOT attempt to remove the rear shock absorber
upper mounting nuts unless the lower arm is securely supported
by a jack.

Before fitting the new shocks, depress and extend throughout
their FULL length a few times to loosen the inner mechanism
and make it easier to fit

 

[grasmere]

Alan - spotted on ebay from another thread . . .

haynes manual

 

[Will]

As others have said - but the manual!
Without wanting to sound silly, they are only about £15 new! Even if you bought one just for this job it wouldn't be money badly spent. How much is MB's hourly labour rate again?

 

[rees_A]

Thanks for the link Grasmere, will bid on that as I may want to do some other stuff in the future and thanks for the info above very helpful.

 

[rees_A]

Took advice from the forum and had them fitted by mechanic. Only charged £70 incl of VAT - Total cost including new Shocks = £145, a bargain I think. Seems to go over drain covers etc much more smoothly than the old shocks and is much flatter under braking/accel. Haven't tried the 'Going round corner really fast' test yet so not 100 % sure on shocks as yet..

 

[altreed]

I am loving mine, these last couple of days I have been pushing the tyres. Well pleased with this upgrade

 

[rees_A]

I've just been over some speed humps that usually take a piece of my exhuast each time I go over them and no rubbing this time....Does this mean the car is slightly higher than it was (It doesn't look it) or are the new shocks doing something .... Not sure what, I guess keeping the car flatter so not squating when going over speed hump or something. Altreed, did you notice much difference in this on your car?

 

[Alps]

Rees_A. you dont seem very convinced with the shocks?

 

[mickl]

I've just been over some speed humps that usually take a piece of my exhuast each time I go over them and no rubbing this time....Does this mean the car is slightly higher than it was (It doesn't look it) or are the new shocks doing something .... Not sure what, I guess keeping the car flatter so not squating when going over speed hump or something. Altreed, did you notice much difference in this on your car?

did you see the old shocks and were you able to compare them in length against the new ones?

 

[rees_A]

I've only done 4 miles since having them replaced so not really in a position to comment on whether they are better or not. Its certainly different to what it was like with the old shocks. Not sure if its different worse or different better yet. The car feels more stable and stays much flatter under breaking/accel/When over speed humps doesn't 'dip' at all (Old ones used to go down a bit then come back up, you could notice it, now when I go over the humps it just goes over without much movement) but does seem 'bumpier' on flat roads??. It also smooths out drain covers that used to be bumpy so quite wierd at the minute. Maybe better once I'm used to it.

It may take a while for them to settle in so will see what happens with it. I'll post an update with better or Worse conclusion in a few days.

Alan

 

[Will]

I've only done 4 miles since having them replaced so not really in a position to comment on whether they are better or not. Its certainly different to what it was like with the old shocks. Not sure if its different worse or different better yet. The car feels more stable and stays much flatter under breaking/accel/When over speed humps doesn't 'dip' at all (Old ones used to go down a bit then come back up, you could notice it, now when I go over the humps it just goes over without much movement) but does seem 'bumpier' on flat roads??. It also smooths out drain covers that used to be bumpy so quite wierd at the minute. Maybe better once I'm used to it.

It may take a while for them to settle in so will see what happens with it. I'll post an update with better or Worse conclusion in a few days.

Alan

Hi Alan,

The new dampers are most likely stiffer than the factory items. The ride will/should be slightly more 'firm' and you should notice that it stays flatter when accelerating/braking.

When travelling over the speed humps, you will probably notice that because the new dampers have a higher resistance than the old ones that, as you say, it doesn't 'dip' quite as much - this is good IMO!

Anyway, give them a few miles to settle down and I am sure you will be happy with them.

Cheers,

Will

 

[altreed]

No, my car still grounds out. However I have lowered it with H&R springs

I cant say I have noticed anything other than the general taughtness since I had the shocks done. It handles round the corners better and hasnt a tendancy to wallow at speed on undulating surfaces like before.

I am almost tempted to book a track day and learn how well it handles. I'll wait until the tyres are due for replacement I will say it smokes the tyres out of my drive a bit easier now