Replacing M111 ECU...

[Miguelxj]

Can anyone confirm the need to program / set parameters on a brand new M111 ECU for a 1993 W124 220E?

Thanks!

MR

 

[evdok]

No, but i know a man who can! ask for jayson 08000113776

 

[Miguelxj]

No, but i know a man who can! ask for jayson 08000113776

Damn, I wish I lived in the UK!

Well, looks like I'll have to make a long distance call from Portugal tomorrow

 

[evdok]

Sorry didn't realize you were abroad

 

[neilrr]

If it does need to be recoded why not buy a second hand unit?

 

[Miguelxj]

If it does need to be recoded why not buy a second hand unit?

I got a very good deal on a new unit from Euromerc

Thanks for the replys.

I set up the ECU and wiring harness (also new) and started the engine. It purrs like a kitten but its now cutting at 3000 rpms, either in Park / Neutral or driving normally.

I believe this is why they need to be hooked up to the HHT or Mercedes-Benz special diagnostic hardware.

Next monday I'll be visiting the nearest dealer to check out what needs to be done.

 

[grober]

I believe the ECU won't permit the engine to rev above 3,000 while stationary to prevent over revving the engine. Doesn't explain the failure to rev above 3,000 unless the ECU requires a reset. Might be worth disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and trying 3,000 +again on the move but not while stationary this time??

 

[kth286]

IT is correct that the new ECU need coding to the car spec.

Code input is spec dependent ie auto or manual, ASD diff or not, etc etc.

The ECU itself must of course be the correct one for the car in the first place taking the spec of the car into account as above.

As soon as the correct code is inputted you will be able to drive it to the red line if required.

 

[Miguelxj]

IT is correct that the new ECU need coding to the car spec.

Code input is spec dependent ie auto or manual, ASD diff or not, etc etc.

The ECU itself must of course be the correct one for the car in the first place taking the spec of the car into account as above.

As soon as the correct code is inputted you will be able to drive it to the red line if required.

These are the ECUs

Old / original:

New:

 

[Miguelxj]

I believe the ECU won't permit the engine to rev above 3,000 while stationary to prevent over revving the engine. Doesn't explain the failure to rev above 3,000 unless the ECU requires a reset. Might be worth disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and trying 3,000 +again on the move but not while stationary this time??

MB WIS Software says that whenever a brand new ECU is installed for the first time, it will automaticly learn the parameters about auto/manual transmission, KAT/Non-KAT, etc.

I wonder what could be cutting the engine at 3000 rpms!? Its a 100% cut, just like the normal cutting @ 4000 rpms when in Park...

 

[kth286]

MB WIS Software says that whenever a brand new ECU is installed for the first time, it will automaticly learn the parameters about auto/manual transmission, KAT/Non-KAT, etc.

I wonder what could be cutting the engine at 3000 rpms!? Its a 100% cut, just like the normal cutting @ 4000 rpms when in Park...

Due to:-

* intake air leaks

* injector wear or carbon build-up

* engine wear

* contact resistance in air mass flow sensor

* etc etc

the engine control module automatically corrects the fuel/air mixture by adjusting the fuel injection duration.

This facility is called Self Adaption.

However I still believe you need to input the code for a new ECU installation as there were changes to the ECUs as time went on.

Post your full VIN here and someone will be able to give you the code for your spec of car.

 

[w124coupe]

Info I have suggests ECU coding came in in 94 so your 93 car should not need it?

The WIS process for a HFM control unit transplant for 93 cars is just to clear both the fault codes and the adaption memory in the new unit and then let it learn over the next 10 trips.

Have you tried clearing down fault codes and then resetting adaption with the new ECU in place? Then go for a drive and cause the 3,000rpm issue and then read fault codes again.

Might be worth letting us know what the fault history was that led you to buy a new ECU - in case that helps with suggestions...

 

[Miguelxj]

Thanks for all the input...

What happened was the air mass sensor plug / wires shorted out and f'ed up the ECU. They really shorted hard (smoke and all...) then the ECU stoped responding to my fault codes reading. Even the fuel pump stoped the normal procedure to pump whenever you turn the ignition on... it really died.

I bought the ECU (new, Euromerc) and the harness (new, dealer), installed everything and the car fired right up. The idle is smooth as it had never been before. The engine now responds fast to the gas pedal. Its really working well...

The current fault code that is constantly popping out on pin 8 is the #5, that refers to the idle control on the ETA... this leads to me believe that the ETA maybe suffered from the short circuit and even though is acusing the idle error, the real problem lies on the potentiometer... Does this make sense to anyone??

I'm really doubtfull about having problems with the MAF sensor, because if there was one the code #4 should've popped up by now, and it hasnt. It only pops up if I disconnect the MAF sensor plug with the engine running. So that detection is workin ok. Also, if the MAF had trouble, wouldnt I notice rough / sluggish running below the 3k rpm?

Just rambling around here... thanks for the help. I should have an ETA by next wednesday to replace mine and test it so I will let you all now how that goes.

Thanks again! Cheers from Porto, Portugal!

 

[grober]

It could be that a section of the potentiometer track on the accelerator pedal unit or the corresponding one in the ETA has burned out with the incident. This would mean everything would work correctly up to the burnt out section. Might explain the sudden cutoff at 3,000 rpm??

 

[kth286]

It could be that a section of the potentiometer track on the accelerator pedal unit or the corresponding one in the ETA has burned out with the incident. This would mean everything would work correctly up to the burnt out section. Might explain the sudden cutoff at 3,000 rpm??

because you have not given us the VIN we do not know what spec your car is so our help is obviously going to be limited.

So, do post up the full VIN.

 

[w124coupe]

These old cars are a bit short of "space" in the blink codes to tell the full story.

Code 5, CTP, has 3 common possible meanings:

throttle valve angle implausibly large
air flow implausibly high
CTP switch intermittent contact

So, you COULD have a MAF that is broken in such a way that it hits 5V at a low airflow level....

You could just have a broken "the throttle is shut" microswitch

You could have a broken throttle body so the ECU "loses" the signal when wide open (or close to it) and so cuts the injectors off.


As David says, the vin would be good so we know what you have...

Specifically, do you have (ASR) Anti-Slip Regulation, (CC) Cruise Control and (EA) Electronic Throttle Actuator or a throttle cable?

We may need pin14 codes (as well as pin8).

 

[kth286]

code 5 is the closed throttle position recognition signal.

If you are able to either back-probe or have the facility of a breakout box for this engine/ECU the following are the spec voltages you should expect to find on terminals 32 and 10 on number one ECU plug.

1. Ignition on and accelerator in closed throttle position = 4.8 volts or less.

2. Ignition on and pedal in wide open throttle position = 5.5 volts or more.

Let us know what you find when you give us the full VIN.

 

[Miguelxj]

because you have not given us the VIN we do not know what spec your car is so our help is obviously going to be limited.

So, do post up the full VIN.

I'm so sorry, I forgot someone had asked for the VIN:

Here it is: WDB1240221B839631

Thanks!

 

[Miguelxj]

code 5 is the closed throttle position recognition signal.

If you are able to either back-probe or have the facility of a breakout box for this engine/ECU the following are the spec voltages you should expect to find on terminals 32 and 10 on number one ECU plug.

1. Ignition on and accelerator in closed throttle position = 4.8 volts or less.

2. Ignition on and pedal in wide open throttle position = 5.5 volts or more.

Let us know what you find when you give us the full VIN.

Only way to do that test is taking the W124 to the dealer, witch I'm available to, just not yet...

The engine idles very well, constantly at 700-750 rpms...

 

[Miguelxj]

These old cars are a bit short of "space" in the blink codes to tell the full story.

Code 5, CTP, has 3 common possible meanings:

throttle valve angle implausibly large
air flow implausibly high
CTP switch intermittent contact

So, you COULD have a MAF that is broken in such a way that it hits 5V at a low airflow level....

You could just have a broken "the throttle is shut" microswitch

You could have a broken throttle body so the ECU "loses" the signal when wide open (or close to it) and so cuts the injectors off.


As David says, the vin would be good so we know what you have...

Specifically, do you have (ASR) Anti-Slip Regulation, (CC) Cruise Control and (EA) Electronic Throttle Actuator or a throttle cable?

We may need pin14 codes (as well as pin8).

No ASR, no CC and the throttle is actuated by cable in the throttle body, witch is electronic (the idle is maintained by an electric servo inside the throttle body).

As I refered yesterday, I'll have a (used) ETA to test later today or tomorrow morning. I hope I can fix this soon! I love to drive this thing... more than driving my 1991 230CE with AMG Monoblocks and Eibach springs!!