S210 self levelling suspension pipes

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axelvic

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Messages
41
Location
Höganäs, Sweden
Car
'06 C 220 CDI, '07 E 280 T CDI
Has anyone successfully replaced rusty old hydraulic suspension pipes on an S210 with copper or copper/nickel brake pipes? Are they up to the job?

Were all S210 (E-class estates 97-02) equipped with SLS or is it possible to obtain conventional shocks and suitable springs to replace the SLS ones with?
 
If your car comes with it you'd best replace what needs fixing. The cost of converting (if possible) to a non sls set up will far outweigh the cost of new pipes and if it is not to the liking of the Swedish road testing check (I'm assuming you guys have a MOT annual check on cars) does not like the look of the set up you could be back at square one.
 
Well obviously it's always better to go with the original set up, and I like having self levelling suspension. However, it's still working, but the pipes are rusty and will have to be replaced soon. If (or when) it then needs new shocks (£ 500) and new spheres (£150) I'm getting close to the value of the car. My thought was that maybe it's just as easy just to replace springs and shocks to conventional ones, but if I need to replace more parts it's not worthwhile.

Sweden's equivalent to the MOT wouldn't mind, they thought the SLS pipes were brake lines last time I had it checked... :)
 
Ok, I see. Well, has anyone replaced the original pipes with copper pipes with success?
 
Didn't bother when I did the pipes on my W124s, just a lick of rust proofing and a spray of grease when fitted - especially in the rubber grommets, that seems to be where they fail most
 
I had a burst over the rear axle...£30 to replace.
 
hi axelvic. I used copper because getting them through to the self leveling valve and lining up the threads would have been nigh on impossible using any other material suitable for the conditions. They have been on the car for 3 years and no sign of any problems. I joined them back onto the steel pipes just in front of the wheel arch, everthing waxoiled and I resist taking a spoonful. My suspension blow out dumped the entire oil tank in about two miles and only loosing the power steering warned me of it, not a pleasant expereince it is a bit heavy to steer to say the least. The AA man who eventually towed me home at speed (with me steering ). He had tried to close off the hydraulilc lines to the rear to enable the power steering, he could not stop it leaking out so engine off and tow was decided. Now listen to this one. Back at home to get the car roadworthy without the self leveling I tried to do the AA mans fix by getting proper unions and closing off the supply to the rear I had wrongly assumed with the steering taking flow there would not be an over pressure risk. lucky for me I started the car with the bonnet closed and after a few second the pump discharge hose blew. I was very lucky - an explosion. Anyway with all the bits I got it back together and it is fine. Another problem area is the top pin of the hydraulic struts get rusty and break off. my offside strut went into the tyre and after a 200m journey as I arrived home I could smell rubber. the next day I found the tyre inner wall down to the canvas. I have made covers using house walling dpc strip and fitting it inboard of the wheel arch liners. I checked them ater 12 months and they were still dry and soaked in waxoil. Frankly a real design glitch. I got a sh/strut which is fine. Good luck.
 

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