yes it is and yes they are.
There is an offset 17mm open ended spanner available to aid the removal of the spark plug lead but I found that using a standard 17mm open ended spanner worked fine.
Do not pull the wire to remove the lead as it can damage the lead and when levering the plug connector off make sure you are forcing it in the same direction as the plug is pointing ie not trying to push it sideways off the plug.
Remove the air filter boxes and inlet pipes. Remove the coils from the camshaft cover, noting lead fitment.
It is a fiddly job, especially the rearmost plugs but patience and care will prevail.
Despite being told by the previous owner all the plugs had been changed on mine only three had been and the other nine had been in there for 77,000 miles and were very tight to remove.
Tony