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Stop Solenoid Wiring 300D 1992 12V

TVRTASMIN

Active Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Messages
128
Location
Steeton
Car
W124 300TD. W124 E300D. Rover P4 110. Rover P6 3.9. Various TVR's Two Ducati's.
I have a spare engine and box almost ready to run up but i can't find a wiring diagram for the stop solenoid in order to power it up.

The wire colours are;

Red with Blue line.
Brown with Blue line.

Anybody able to shine some light on the problem ?

Cheers

Ian
 
The 1992 engines have a vacume stop valve on top of the injector pump.
If this is the info you are looking for.

I have a spare engine and box almost ready to run up but i can't find a wiring diagram for the stop solenoid in order to power it up.

The wire colours are;

Red with Blue line.
Brown with Blue line.

Anybody able to shine some light on the problem ?

Cheers

Ian
 
I know, but i am assuming that power needs to be applied for the engine to run, hence the need to know which wires require 12volts etc.
 
The engine will run without any power

AFAIK you only need to turn the engine over and it'll run

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
Well that makes life a bit easier.
Thanks to all for the info.

Would still be interested in getting hold of a wiring diagram for the car though as the Haynes one is useless.

I have those two workshop cd's that are linked to a website but they seem to be acting up, something about needing adobe (have version 8 so can't see the problem).
 
The solenoid motor is either the idle speed control or idle stabalisation depending on what is fitted. There should really be two solenoid motors on the back end of the pump.
 
Got the engine running which started first time. Unfortunately within 30 seconds or so the engine threw a rod on number six cylinder punching a hole in the block.:(
Haven't had chance to strip the engine to find out why yet as it is kept at work.
When i first got the engine and gearbox assembly i noticed the air filter was soaked with water, so the only explanation i have is that there might have been some water in the cylinder.
Anybody any other ideas?
 
If the engine had water in one cylinder it would have either not turned over or bent a rod on startup. I can't see it lasting 30 seconds with water in a bore. Maybe the water came in via the fuel system after startup, hydraulic-locked a piston and that caused the failure

Did the rod snap or did one end let go?

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
The rod snapped about an inch or so from the big end.
I did notice a strong smell of diesel when i was picking bits of metal out through the hole in the sump.
 
That's harsh! Are you going to rebuild it or chuck it away?

I do think this thread needs pics, gory & annoying though they may be

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
I'm going to rebuild it as it only has 71K on it.

Anybody got a block, sump and conrod?:(
 
If the engine had water in one cylinder it would have either not turned over or bent a rod on startup. I can't see it lasting 30 seconds with water in a bore. Maybe the water came in via the fuel system after startup, hydraulic-locked a piston and that caused the failure

Did the rod snap or did one end let go?

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk

After it turned over once , the water was out and the damage done - a possibility would be an engine stored outside with a build of of water in the inlet tract which got hoovered up during running -

If it was water in the injection system, this guy is going to be worth a fortune as he has just worked out a way of running engines on the stuff .

Must have been a big glug of water - I have seen a few hydraulic'ed and they tend to bend a rod - they will sometimes even keep running afterwards - was the engined being revved at the time ?
 
Block is patchable but i haven't done anything with it yet as the engine is at work and i'm busy with a Rover V8 project at home.
 
After it turned over once , the water was out and the damage done - a possibility would be an engine stored outside with a build of of water in the inlet tract which got hoovered up during running -

If it was water in the injection system, this guy is going to be worth a fortune as he has just worked out a way of running engines on the stuff .

Must have been a big glug of water - I have seen a few hydraulic'ed and they tend to bend a rod - they will sometimes even keep running afterwards - was the engined being revved at the time ?


According to a local diesel specialist the cause is likely to be water in the fuel.
When i bought the engine and box 10 months ago, i found the air filter to be very damp and mouldy, but no sign of water anywhere.
 

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